| BTW, I took no notes along the way so this is from memory...
I began planning the trip in April. In brief, the goal was to "ride to
Wisconsin". I wanted to do as much of the Iowa to Maine bike route as
possible so the original plan was to ride directly from Hudson, NH, to Ft
Ticonderoga, NY and from Ft Ticonderoga, NY to Davenport, Iowa, on the Iowa
to Maine route and from Davenport to River Falls, WI via aother
Bikecentiennial route. I ordered maps and a new set of panniers from
Bikecentennial. My plan was to go solo and use Motels, though I did
consider camping. I prefer to spend more time on the bike. I hadn't
had enough time to ride this spring so this trip was going to make up for
that. I had porked out a bit (to, say, 185).
I knew that a friend in Madison was returning to New England for a visit
this summer so I coordinated the return.
I wanted to use my Trek 720 (vintage 1984, 531 Mag-Moly steel, made in USA)
touring bike. I was planning to carry weight and wanted to be able to rely
on the wheels so I fished a pair of 40 spoke specialized sealed bearing
hubs out of the basement and pair of WOLBER 58 Super Champion rims. I took
the rims to be built. I had bought them 6 yrs ago at a good price with
the intent of someday building them and using them for a tour such as this.
I ordered 3 27x1 1/4's, Kevlar belted, from Performance. It's getting
harder to find good 27 inch tires.
I had had a problem with the 720's bottom bracket creaking on a tour in '89
so I took it apart and reassembled it -- it's a Phil Wood -- using lock
tight on the lock rings. I also used lock tight on all of the braze on
screws. Blackburn rack on the back, low-riders on the front. I installed
a profile bar on the front along with my own (custom) "aero" handle bar bag
on the front. I stripped to no longer functional Cateye Solar and
installed a Cateye Cordless computer. I changed the low chainwheel from a
30 to a 24.
I toyed with the idea of installing something SIS but balked at the price
for only 3 week's riding per year. I dug through my tool box and
determined that I could assemble a Regina 7 speed freewheel with
13-15-17-19-21-24-28. I was sure this would not be the best set of numbers
to match my half-step plus granny 24-45-50 but I didn't care knowing that I
had more gears than I needed anyway.
I installed a new chain and took the bike out for a couple of test rides,
140 miles. Never did test it with the panniers.
As time for the vacation approached, I decided that the schedule of 1900
miles in 19 days left no room for error and resulted in my missing The
National Congress of Bicyclists, so I elected to ride due west from Hudson,
NH, pick up Rt 20 Near Albany and pick up the Iowa to Maine Route in Seneca
Falls, NY, trimming the 1900 miles by 100-150 miles. I remembered US 20
from the mid 70's and worried about this choice -- the road was hilly and
the road bed was concrete resulting in many bumps and cracks.
I decided to carry four sets of bike shorts, jersey, and socks, a rain
outfit, two sets of civvies -- shorts, t-shirt, undies. A pair of sneakers,
warm jacket, some nylon & lycras windpants I picked up once upon a time,
and tights. The windpants could double as long pants on a cool evening.
Also toilet items and some tools: a spoke wrench, spare spokes, 4 or 5
tubes, the 3rd tire, freewheel tool, 6" adj wrench, 5 inch vice grip, tire
iron, swiss army knife, electrical tape, and a couple of paperweights
(i.e., other things I never used).
One week before leaving Al Lester and Andy Spiner were killed in NY,
resulting in some anguish on my and my wife's behalf but we can't let fear
get the best of us so I elected to GO. I did determine that I would try to
be off the road by 5 PM, especially on Fridays and Saturdays when the
likelihood of encountering "Ability Impaired" drivers was higher.
Often, before the ride, I have been getting neck cramps. I make a mental
note to stretch my neck often during the trip.
I also planned to start early each day. Realizing that this would be
before breakfast, I planned to start with two cans of Exceed carbo
stuff and a half dozen Exceed bars to get going. The plan was to buy more
along the way if needed/
Day 1, June 13: Hudson to Brattleboro, VT. 84 miles. I wanted to climb
the big hill on Rt 9, early in the morning when the traffic was light.
I needn't have worried because even the Saturday afternoon traffic was
light. I was reluctant to venture far from the motel, so I had dinner
at the tavern next door, chili and a club sandwich, and a couple of brews.
Discovered that, though I had shaving cream, two 3 oz bottles of shampoo
and 3 bottles of sunscreen, I had no toothbrush, toothpaste, or razor.
I was later to discover that I also had no tights. I stretch a little
(always a weakness in my training) but pay attention to my neck.
Day 2. I awoke early, had an Exceed bar for breakfast and packed a bottle
of Exceed also. Started by 5:20 AM. I stopped at an overcrowded restaurant
around 8 AM and decided to eat later. I had breakfast around 10:30 in
Bennington on the other side of the state. I passed through Troy just
before "the nation's larget Flag Day Parade." I got through Albany with
little hassle -- mostly because it was Sunday. I didn't want to go that
way, just a combination of "road closed to bicycles" and taking the easy
turn took me throught the city. I helped myself to water at a fire
station. Around 90 miles I started looking for a motel. Discovered how
little the locals understand "bicycle." "Well if you go up here about 20
miles..." A woman overheard the questions and told me where the next motel
along 20 could be found, about 35 miles up. I had several hours till dark,
so I pressed on. Around 5:30 I found "Motel, Snack Bar, Convenience Store"
and pulled over, 116 miles for the day. It was a Motel, the other
businesses had closed. I inquired as to the nearest restaurant, it was 7
miles up the road. Hmmm, "Are there motels there?" "I can fix you a
couple of hamburgers." "How about a baked potato or two? Spaghetti?" "I
can fix you some spaghetti, home made sauce" "Deal" "Do you like iced tea?"
"Great" $25 for the room, $4 for the dinner. It wasn't enough but it
served the immediate needs. Carlyle NY, 116 mi. If you look for it on a
map it's just east of Sharon.
Day 3. Rode 30 or so miles to Richfield something for breakfast. Spotted
drugstore and purchased toilet items found to have been missing, finally.
The hills start to wear on me. Peonies and lilacs are in season seems to
be a bit late for them. The corn is 6-10 inches high. At 107 miles I
stop in Skaneateles (pronounced "Skinny Atlas"). The eatery next door is a
fried food joint. I order chili and later a fish dinner. Three dirty sets
of bike clothes, time to do my laundry. I wash stuff in the bathroom sink,
rinse well and hang to dry.
Day 4. Again I start with an Exceed bar and a bottle of Exceed. My laundry
hasn't fully dried but I pack them back in the ziploc bags and go. It is
clear that I will have to solve this problem. I have breakfast, again
pancakes, in Seneca Falls. I have my first flat. Pick up the Iowa to Maine
Bike trail. It is good to be off US 20 though it was nowhere near as bad
as my memory had made it out to be. Pretty good surface, frequent
shoulders, light to moderate traffic. The ride along Seneca Lake is a
pleasant spin. A little later I misinterpret the directions and do a light
1 mile hill and joke that "I needed some work anyway." Soon I am back to
crossing the ridges of NY and the joke seems frivolous. I expect to find a
motel in Bath and misinterpret the map to get there so I have to do an
extra 8 or so miles and a 2 mile killer hill to find it. 104 mi. I iced my
knees that night. I have some sunburn on my forehead, the backs of my ears
and my nose.
There is a Pizza Hut nearby so I go there and order a Cavatini Supreme,
large and iced tea. It is a pasta dish with a nice, I think, veggie sauce.
After finishing I ask for a menu. "Excuse me?" "A menu, I'm still hungry"
"Oh, I see" I order a small (1-2 people) pizza. This is my first good
dinner and I am sated. I return to ice my knees. I hung my damp laundry.
I put the shorts chamois over the rooms lamps to accelerate drying, turning
occasionally. This seems to be a good solution. I was later to also use
room heaters and air conditioners, if they were working. I got another flat
today. All my tubes are 27x1. the good ones were ok at 1 1/4, but the
cheap one I put in in the morning has too much rubber near the valve and
doesn't expand properly inside the tire so it gets a puncture from abrasion
inside the tire. For some reason which escapes me I replace it with a
similar tube.
Day 5: more ridges of Southwestern NY. My 2nd cheap tube flatted. I
replace it with a better one (same as what I started with in the front and
the one that's in the back and caused no problem. I didn't support the
pump properly and, whoosh, I break off the stem. Ok, folks one more time.
There is a stiff headwind. I get to Franklinville. The map says there's a
motel there. I inquire at a restaurant and the motel is 1+ miles up the
road, no restaurant but I can return here for dinner. I get to the motel,
shower, read a little. I road, sans panniers, to the restaurant. 12 mph
is all I can do in the wind. Spaghetti for dinner. It opens at 6 am so I
plan to be there at 6, no Exceed for breakfast tomorrow. 86 mi.
Day 6. There were tornados in Minnesota and Wisconsin the night before
last. This night has a frost locally. The forecast is rain. I hardly
meet anyone who doesn't say, "You're going to get wet today." As I make
the last turn for the PA border an old timer tells me I have to go about 10
miles and then climb a 3 mile hill. Knowing the the locals are only
sometimes right I head off. The drizzle starts. I'm thinking about where
I'm going to find shelter near the Allegany Reservoir. 10 miles, the climb
starts, I'm getting wet. Near the summit, the sky turns blue and the rain
stops. I note with pleasure that the hill was only 2 miles. I smile. I
see a campground and shelter at the summit. I realize the sky is blue so
that I'll be tempted to continue onward, then as soon as I'm committed the
sky will open up. I continue onward, the sky gets greyer, ever
threatening. My choices for the evening are Warren, PA, and farther on,
Corry, PA. Considering the sky, I choose Warren. As I enter the town,
blue skies return. I know this is just trying to get me to go onward
toward Corry so I can be drenched. I refuse the gambit and find a Super 8
in Warren. I do laundry again, using lamps to dry my shorts. I also use
the room's heater. The Perkins Family Restaurant has an "All you can eat
Spaghetti" for the night's special. It takes forever for my waitress to
come over so I can say "May I please have a refill on my iced tee and a
second helping on spaghetti.?" I later learned that she has burned her
hand (hot water) and has been taking care of it. At 11pm the thunder
boomers hit. It pours. By 2 the rain has stopped. 73 mi.
Day 7. My alarm goes off at 5 and the pavement is dry. I took a shower.
When I start to pack the bike, I notice it is again pouring, I return to
bed. At 6:30 the rain has stopped and I go back to Perkins for breakfast.
Occasionally I hear a soft bip-bip-bip noise from the back of the bike. I
conclude that the stiffener in my panniers hass begun to curve and the back
of the pannier is occasionally hitting my spokes. I move the pannier a bit
on the rack and the noise goes away for a while. Beginning in Central NY
and now more prevalent I notice that a common lawn ornament is black
silhouetted figure. The most common is a man leaning against a tree,
sometimes smoking a pipe, often with a cloth bandana. Often there are
female, child and animal black figures. This is in stark contrast to the
"bent over fat ladies" who have become as common as pink flamingoes in the
Northeast. It rains on and off during the day and I get to Cambridge
Springs. The B & B is booked full. The innkeeper mentions the Riverside
in town and a B & B 20 or so miles up the road. I had stopped by the
Riverside but it looked full and expensive. It wasn't so bad. I have to
confess that I bought a bag of potato chips and ate them then I had no room
for dinner. 73 mi again.
Day 8. It is cold and rainy, I am wearing my rain pants, my warm jacket
and my windbreaker/rain jacket. At mile 16 as I am double checking
because I am looking for "Springboro Rd" and the signs don't say this, a
pickup stops and the driver assures me than I am on the right route. In
Springboro I am quite chilled so I ask at a grocery for a cup of coffee.
They don't have any but a customer says, "My grandmother is right upstairs
and has a pot of hot water on. You are welcome ..." I accepted the invite
and met his grandmother. Sat and talked for spell. I was then on my way
somewhat warmer and witha few packs of peanut-butter cheese crackers "fer
energy" She gave me a hug and kiss. I left my goggles there so had to go
back. Another hug and kiss and I was on my way. The hugs lasted all day.
I saw some Amish working there saw mill as well as an Amish Buggy on the
road. We exchange waves or nods. The center of the lanes are extra rough
around here and I wonder if it's for the horses.
There is a black and brown dog just short of the Ohio line that gets a
tooth on my rain pants.
There really are "amber waves of grain" around, alternating with corn.
There are motels in Geneva, Ohio. The HoJo's is No Vacancy. I call the
Geneva Motel. They have a vacancy. 66 mi. I get overcharged and the place
has a lingering smell of mildew. I spend the rest of the afternoon walking
around town and pick up a box of poptarts and a box of granola bars for
"future snacks" since there seems to be a lack of convenience stores on
this part of the route. I have a "loaded" pizza for dinner.
I realize that the weather and not knowing where the vacancies are are
cutting back on my average mileage so I have Linda look up a motel
120 miles down the road and make me a reservation. It's in Elyria, OH.
I know that regardless of the cold and wet, I can make it that far if
I know there's a room available.
Day 9. I do the Cleveland Bypass. It's basically hilly Parkway. There's
some construction and I miss a turn, twice. Both turns cost me a 1 mile
hill. I am just about done the parkway when the rain starts pouring. I
take a break at a snack bar and have some French Fries. As I approach
Elyria, I cut off the route onto some US highways. There's a lot of
construction, even down to one tight lane. Good thing it's Sunday. In the
city I get off that $%^& road and ask for directions. "Where you comin
from?" "On a BICYCLE?" One lady look at me like I have two heads -- Eyes
wide, head back, etc. "well the only way to get there is to get onto that
road and ... but you don't want to do that on a bicycle" "I just got off it
a little more won't hurt" "Oh" A fellow tells me a couple of side roads
that will get there, I thank him and press onward. I find the Knights Inn
and check in. 119 mi. Did laundry again. I had dinner at a Bob Adams. The
special is Rib Eye, but I order spaghetti. I plan to reach Bowling Green
the next day, 100+ miles but it has lots of motels.
Day 10. I leave that town early. The sun rises around 6 am so I have
breakfast first. I head straight for Florence Ohio rather than try to
rejoin the route where I left it, that saves a few miles and a lot of
construction. About 40 miles out I am thinking about finding water. As I
pass a couple of Edison trucks working on the lines, they ask where I'm
coming from. I stop and chat. They tell me there is a 60+ yr old couple
going cross country maybe two days ahead of me. As I'm ready to leave, I
ask where I can find water. They gave me some of their ice cold water. a
left trun 1 mile and a right and I spot two guys with panniers doing the
Iowa to Maine route. "You have some hills in front of you" "Well, you've
got nothing but flat from here to the Mississippi." :-) :-) They also tell
me about the 60+ couple doing about 50 mi/day. I might pass them (I figure
I'll most likely pass them when they are off the road if I do pass them). I
find it "interesting" that they have not seen any rain. I also saaw several
Blue Heron today. There are usually ditches between the fields and the
roads and the bottom of the ditches has some water. As I ride along the
Heron hear me and fly off. Also I often hear frogs either making frog
noises or jumping in the water. As I write this I realize that the Heron
were probably there eating frogs. About 40 miles later as I'm passing two
more Toldeo Edison truck working the lines the foreman says, "Want some
cold water?" Deja vu. Near Bowling Green, I ask a couple of convenience
store attendants where a particualr intersection is, they have no idea.
Then I ask about the motel (which uses that intersection as an address),
the girls, ahh young women, tell me "Oh that's just across the interstate,
cheapest place in town" I check in locate a bike shop and go buy 4 new
tubes and a new pair of look cleats (been in the back of my mind for a few
days). 100 mi.
Day 10+: I take a day off, Linda had suggested it and it poured that
morning and the forecast was rain all day. There is a concession in the
motel whereby you rent a VCR and unlimited movies for $9.99. I see
Terminator 2 and a couple of other memorable flicks. I do ALL my laundry
using a washing machine. I walked into town bought some souvenirs, mailed
them out. Walked maybe 5-6 miles. FOUND a full roll of duct tape. I use
it to fix my handle bar tape for the LAST time. Left it in the room
though. I disassemble my panniers and move the right stiffener to the left
pannier and vice versa. This should eliminate that occasional noise from
hitting the spokes. My sunburn is peeling.
Day 11: I head off for Ft Wayne, Indiana. Gad this part of Ohio is flat.
The corn is knee high. the roads are straight. Along the way, as I'm
thinking about where to get my next water bottle and as I cruise westward,
I hear a "Hi" I look to my right and say "Hi" It's a woman and her
daughter and their horse who is eating the lawn. Ever quick to recognize a
resource, I brake and say "Could I have some water please?" "Sure, help
yourself, the toilet's over there if your need it." We chat a bit. She has
helped numerous cyclists in the past many have slept on the couch though
one woman tented in the front yard and came in for a shower in the morning.
A German cyclist had ridden by one night at 10PM looking for a motel.
(none for 30 miles) and slept on the couch. Neither spoke the others
language. The last stretch of Ohio is "set your compass on 270 and
cruise." There are a lot of pigs around here. I get into Ft Wayne. Most
of the motels are on the other side of town. I see a billboard ad for Days
Inn, with address and head for that. Special rate $26 on a $54 room. 122
mi. The restaurant opens at 6 but the sun rises at 5. the clerk says they
are on Central time but I think they are really on Eastern Standard, not
that it really makes a difference.
Day 12: I leave at 5+. On the way out I spot a commuter cyclist and ask
about a restaurant, he points me at The Waynewood. By now, I don't bother
looking at a menu, "Yes, coffee please. Do you have pancakes? Good. If
there's an option I'll take the large order. large orange Juice. Thanks."
The waitress came over and we chatted. Even asked me if I was riding home
and laughed with me when I said "No, I have a ride."
The only changes in elevation today are near the Wabash and the Salomonie
reservoir. Gad, wheeooo, there's a lot of pig farms on this route. I had
made a reservation in Peru, Indiana because there didn't seem to be a lot
of places there. There really are quite a few. My motel is the farthest
from the bike route. 89 mi. It was a warm day and, as usual though I
haven't said it, I drink a lot of water after the ride to counter any
possible dehydration.
Day 13: There have often been headwinds. Today they are special. 12 to 15
and 20 mph from the northwest. I often find myself doing 9-10 mph rather
than the more common 12-13. I stop to watch some deer that are crossing
the road. I dug out the camera but they disappear before I get nearer.
More pigs.
I have a reservation in Watseca, IL. I choose a route which will shorten
my journey the most instead of staying on the county roads the longest
before deviating. As I get near US 24, I spot a Dairy Queen. It look
deserted but I stop anyway. I chat with the woman, ask about the Carousel
Inn, Yup 8 miles due west on US 24. It's downhill from here you don't have
to pedal, we are at the same height as the water towers. I don't tell her
that 200 ft downhill over 8 miles into a headwind means pedaling. I
checkin and ice my knees for the second time during the journey. 113.5 mi.
I finish the book I've been reading since NY. I start planning how I'm
going to get to Wisconsin. By now I've decided to go to Madison and rent a
car to River Falls so I can have 1 or two days off before the rally. I
plan on taking Illinois 47 North to Woodstock and US 14 west to Harvard and
getting local route information from the Haldeman's.
Day 14. At Cullum, Ill, I mail home two sets of bike clothes, the book I
finished, a gift to Linda, the maps I won't need any more. Before turning
left to rt 47, I elect to head straight North on the county road that I'm
on. I seems to go for another 15 miles or so. I packed 3 water bottles
this morning, that seems good because the local water is high in clorine.
Pigs. At Yorkville I inquire about a motel. The clerk said there were some
but they weren't very good. I used the yellow pages and found one. I get a
room at Yorkville, not great but not the worst that I've had either. 101
mi.
Day 15. on Rt 47 I am passed all day by antique cars and cars towing
boats. US 14 is one of the worst roads that I have ever seen. Like what I
had expected US 20 in NY to be. I had figured that I could get a room at
Harvard Ill in the El Rancho. It is booked full. Lon's Pac Tour is coming
through tonight. Lon's mom digs out his maps and shows me some county roads
into Wisconsin. I stop in Fontana, WI, at an empty Inn. The rate is $95.
"That's a little above my budget is there anything else in town?" "Up the
hill" (Of course!) I go up the hill and ask aboiut a vacancy. "yes"
"What's the rate" "Usually $65 but I can let you have it for $45" "Ok" 81
mi. Spaghetti for dinner. I'm in a rut.
Day 16. Yesterday and today, I've been psyched. The riding is easier. the
roads aren't as flat or straight. I see a pair of scarecrows. The county
roads in WI are well marked but still lightly travelled. the corn is a
little over 2 feet high and has some brown streaks. I thought it was
drought but am told it's frost damage.
I got directions from my friend in Madison from county MM (it looked good
from the map) so I work very hard to get to MM. There's a lot of
construction. I recall a quote from the LAW of 1899 that the roads of New
Jersey and Wisconsin were very good because of the actions of the League.
It seems they are all now being rebuilt. I follow US 51 Detour. right to
where it goes onto the Interstate. Drat. I stop at a convenience store.
"A little hot for biking isn't it" "If I waited till the weather was
perfect, I'd still be in New Hampshire" Chuckles, some chat, a bottle of
gatorade. I ask about county road to get over to MM. Get directions along
with "That's kinda hilly" (I chuckle inwwardly) I make the turns and
recall that I really am closer to Madison now than if I take the detours,
but heck I do have all day, it's only 60 miles so far and the detours only
add about 20 more. I get into Richmond, have a Subway Large Tuna. Find
someone who know how to get to County B (leads to MM). She pointed me past
more construction. I asked a county road supervisor at the construction
and he tells me I have to carry my bike over the dam. I chat with a kid on
the dam and lend him my vice grips to get a treble hook out of his shoe. --
gotta use the tools for something. More gravel, more construction, a few
more turns and Fitchburg, Wisconsin. Then finally, Madison. I pull our my
hastily scratched notes and just as I figure, "Aha, take a left" a woman in
a car asks if I am lost, I ask "UW this way?" she confirms it. A few turns
a couple of sprints and I'm there. 89 mi.
PS: Apparently I lost 8 or 9 lbs.
PPS: Pigs dont' bother me.
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