| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 1954.1 | Good Bike | CTHQ1::FRERE | Ellas Danzan Solas | Thu May 30 1991 11:36 | 6 |
| It's a very good entry level mtn bike.
Since you have already purchased it, can you expand on the "equipment
pricing, etc" part?
Eric
|
| 1954.2 | Was I sold a sausage | MEALA::B_WALSH | | Thu May 30 1991 12:46 | 30 |
|
Eric....thanks for the reply...
I purchased the bike secondhand here in Ireland
for 165 pounds ($260) because it looked like a fairly good buy, as I'm
new to the mountain bike scene it's only after buying the bike that
I've starting reading this notesfile to see if I could trace the TREK
brand which seemingly are not available here in Ireland.
Re the equipment pricing etc... I was trying
to source what level of equipment the bike had - was it good,middle of
the road or what ??. Also what price the bike was new ??
Is TREK an American manufacturer - as this
bike was made in Taiwan ? also from this notes file I've not seen the
TREK 830 mentioned for quite a while mainly TREK 1200 etc...
What's the Shimano 300LX equipment like ?.... I'd appreciate info
with regards to where the TREK 830 lies on the TREK bike ladder also
where the Shimano 300LX equipment is placed. Also how does the tubing
(CH-MO 4130) compare to Renolds tubing ...?
Thanks for your interest..
|
| 1954.3 | Shimanor range... | VAOU02::OWONG | SKIWI in Canada (VAO) | Sat Jun 01 1991 00:47 | 12 |
| From memory this is the order of level for the Shimano
mountain bike range :-
DEORE XT Top
DEORE DX
DEORE LX
500 LX
400 LX
300 LX
200 GS
100 GS
|
| 1954.4 | I love my TREK! | BUSY::BLANCHARD | | Mon Jun 03 1991 19:51 | 9 |
| hi ! Ijust wanted to add that I bought my TREK 820 last spring
and it has been great. I did a lot of shopping around and this
was the best bike for the price. All I needed was an entry level
bike, and I'll work my way up from there. I haven't had any problem
at all with it, and it is a pretty tough bike...
I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine!
monique
|
| 1954.5 | Re .3 | MEALA::B_WALSH | | Tue Jun 04 1991 06:26 | 6 |
|
re .3 ........ thanks
Any idea what price differences would be ?
B.
|
| 1954.6 | One for my son | DPDMAI::GUYER | | Tue Jun 11 1991 14:54 | 8 |
| I bought my son a Trek 830 last summer. I believe I paid about $380
dollars for it. He is quite hard on the bike and so far I have not had
to do anything but adjust the front derailer cable. He likes it very
much and according to him it is an "in" bike. All his friends are
envious. Aside from it's prestige factor, it does have a good list of
components for the price (good value). I peronally don't like the STI
shifters but my son does and that's what counts. It should be a good
reliable bike.
|
| 1954.7 | More problems | MEALA::B_WALSH | | Wed Jun 12 1991 06:36 | 18 |
|
I find the bike very pleasing to ride and have started to take this
sport a bit more seriously - taking to the hills - very mountainous
and scenic area around here I don't know why I'm not biking for years.
Re - your adjustments to the front derailer mine definately
need adjusting ;
Is there a specific starting point and step by step
method for adjusting the front derailer with STI levers ? Should the
front derailer move a cog with each click ? I have to go 2 clicks -
should it be stiff ? what do the 2 screws on the derailer do ??
Any help appreciated ..........
Brian...
|
| 1954.8 | Rear derailleur is set the same way | ELMAGO::TTOMBAUGH | A Fistful of Epoxy | Wed Jun 12 1991 12:13 | 34 |
| re .7
The two screws on the front derailleur set the inner and outer limits
of travel. They have no effect except at the extremes of derailleur
movement.
There should be an "L" and "H" stamped near each screw, low for
inner adjustment, high for outer adjustment.
If you need two clicks to move between each chainring, the derailleur
cable tension is probably out of adjustment.
To adjust, put the chain on the outer ring and turn the threaded
shaft on the end of the cable housing where it enters the derailleur.
It may be necessary to loosen the lock nut first.
The goal is to get the cable tension just tight enough to cause
movement immediately, as the shift lever is moved. With correct
tension, one click will allow movement to the next chainwheel.
Too much tension will not allow the chain to move out far enough
to engage the outer chainwheel. Remember, the "H" screw also affects
this setting.
Too little tension causes the multiple clicks between positions,
that you are experiencing.
With the chain on the inner chainwheel, cable tension should be
fairly taut, and the "L" set screw should be adjusted to allow no
further inward movement.
This is all easier than it sounds. Tweak your set screws and cable
adjusting barrel around a little and it will be obvious how things
work.
Terry
|
| 1954.9 | Re .7 STI lever effort | MEALA::B_WALSH | | Wed Jun 12 1991 14:11 | 11 |
|
re .8
Thanks for the reply.
I'll give it a try this evening and
let you know tommorrow - should the front derailer using
the STI levers ( being properly adjusted ) be as free to
change from one cog to another as the rear or does the size
of the front cogs ratio the amount of effort required.
Brian.
|
| 1954.10 | | ELMAGO::TTOMBAUGH | A Fistful of Epoxy | Thu Jun 13 1991 12:45 | 6 |
| The front derailleur lever can be set to move as freely as the rear
if it doesn't creep out of position. On my indexed levers, the front
is probably set a little tighter than the rear. Can't recall that
I've ever tried to adjust it.
Terry
|
| 1954.11 | Adjusting barell | MEALA::B_WALSH | | Thu Jun 13 1991 13:43 | 12 |
|
I had a look at the front derailer setup last night and there ain't
no adjusting barrel the cable just comes up from the bottom and
under the retaining nut ? are the sti levers adjustable what happens
in there ? I have opened things before only to hear springs etc landing
all around. Are the STI levers just a ratchet and clutch cable holding
mechanism - I spotted your L and H - thanks for the info.
Shimano 300 LX is the derailer type.
B.
|
| 1954.12 | | ELMAGO::TTOMBAUGH | A Fistful of Epoxy | Thu Jun 13 1991 19:31 | 19 |
| Sorry about the adjusting barrel mixup. I was thinking of the rear
derailleur when I wrote that.
With the retaining nut set-up, put the front lever fully forward,
chain on outer chainwheel, then loosen the retaining nut and tension
the cable just enough to cause the derailleur to start moving in
and soon as the lever is moved. The position of the derailleur over
the chain wheel is set with the "H" screw before the cable is
tensioned, then possibly readjusting the screw after a test ride.
I don't know anything about the internals of the STI levers. DON'T
take them apart. If they use the pivoting "D" ring for tensioning
just turn it forward to increase the stiffness of lever movement,
rearward to decrease. If they don't use a "D" ring then there should
be a screw in the center that does the same thing.
If this is a new bike, expect to do the cable adjustment a few times
until the cables stop stretching.
Terry
|
| 1954.13 | I'll give it a shot | MEALA::B_WALSH | | Fri Jun 14 1991 06:23 | 8 |
|
thanks... Terry
I'll give it a shot over the weekend.Have a
nice weekend and don't push yourself to hard on those hills I may have
more questions for my own personal bicycle mechanic on Monday.
Thank again ..... Brian
|
| 1954.14 | is this normal? | HELIX::MCGRAY | | Mon Jun 17 1991 13:06 | 13 |
|
Hi just bought a TREK 820 a month ago. The front derailer NEVER clicks
at all, I always have a hard time getting it into gear. I just have to
listen for the chain to catch. Is that what it's supposed to do?
Also, I noticed that when in the middle front gear (8-14???) it seems
to be in position until I get to 13 or 14, and then the chain starts
clicking like it's out of gear until I adjust the front derailer a
little more. Is this normal? I've never owned a bike before, never
mind one with so many gears!
Thanks
Julie
|
| 1954.15 | A NUMBER OF POSSIBILITIES | WMOIS::C_GIROUARD | | Mon Jun 17 1991 15:20 | 10 |
| Front derailleurs are not (usually) indexed. If the rear is shifting
okay, but you're getting chain noise, all you need is a minor barrel
adjustment (found on the rear derailleur...
If you're finding (or think your getting) excessive "chain drag"
before you shift up front, that could mean a number of adjustments
to the front derailleur, e.g. height of the derailleur, in-out
adjustment, parellel (guide to chain travel)...
Chip
|
| 1954.16 | have the store check them! | SALEM::SHAW | Vertical Obsession... | Mon Jun 17 1991 15:39 | 8 |
|
RE:14
Julie if you bought your TREK from a bike shop, you should bring it
back they should adjust your derailures for you, most probably at
no cost or very little cost.
Shaw
|
| 1954.17 | Everybody riding Trek 820/830 ?.... | ELMAGO::TTOMBAUGH | A Fistful of Epoxy | Mon Jun 17 1991 15:42 | 36 |
| Since I've been appointed Trek 820/830 advisor, ;^) , I'll take
a shot at Julie's problem too.
I've never seen a Trek 820/830, so have no preconceived notions
about them.
Julie, first you have to make sure that your front dereailleur is
the index type; I assume it is. Then you have to make sure that
it is set to the index mode. Most indexed shifters have a non-indexed
mode also. It will never click when in the non-index mode.
It may be operating normally as set, but it shouldn't be difficult
to shift even in non-index mode.
As to the other problem,I'm not sure what you mean by "...middle
front gear (8-14???) ", but if the chain is on the middle chain
ring, and you shift to the outside cogs on the rear (13 or 14)
and you hear a rubbing or clicking sound, probably what is happening
is that the chain line is far enough outboard to cause the chain
to rub against the front derailleur cage, until you adjust it.
It may be possible to adjust the front derailleur in the index mode
to give enough clearance when running on the outside cogs, but this
can be a marginal clearance situation in many cases, couldn't say
without looking at it. You may not be able to run the small cogs
with the middle chain ring without rubbing. The same gearing, without
rubbing, can probably be obtained with some other combination of
gearing, ie, outer chainwheel and inner cog, so your not really
at a disadvantage by not running in the condition that causes the
rubbing.
A good exercise to fill your spare time, is to look through the
notes and find the note that describes how to calculate gear inches.
Do this for your bike, make a chart, and you'll always know what
combination of gears gives what gear inch.
Terry
probably be obtained with some other
|
| 1954.18 | | MEALA::B_WALSH | | Tue Jun 18 1991 15:13 | 11 |
|
Terry.....
Thanks for your indepth replies they have been most
helpful I think my problem is sorted out - just needed a little
adjusting to things I was nervous to touch....I'll be giving it a
fairly good spin tonight should test it.
Thanks for your help
Brian.
|
| 1954.19 | They're STI | DPDMAI::GUYER | | Tue Jun 18 1991 19:00 | 15 |
| My son's Trek 830 has STI shift levers, under the bar. The front one
is indexed as well as the back. It's a strange set up in that the
shift upward is variable (using the big lever) and you can stop
wherever you want. It would be easy to go too far or too slow, making
the shifts somewhat inaccurate. Going down, (using the small lever) it
indexes quickly going from the outer to the middle and the middle to
the inner. I have not noticed any chain rubbing at the outer extremes
but that would not be unusual, Especially going up because of the
inaccuracy of the shift. I think! there is also a lever to make the
shifter non-indexed. You may have it in the non-indexed mode. I agree
that if you bought the bike at a bike shop, take it back and let them
look it over. I know that can be an inconvenience but unless you know
what you are doing or have a friend who does you can really get those
things out of wack by playing around with them. They are very
sensitive.
|
| 1954.20 | More questions... | MEALA::B_WALSH | | Wed Jun 19 1991 07:05 | 24 |
|
Re .19
Re the indexed / non-indexed changing lever - Where is it
normally -( TREK 830 )?. Any idea what the spring loaded screws on the
brake levers do.What causes brakes to screeech / sing - they use'nt.
Brian.........who prefers to seek advice
before touching things.... experience
Terry....
Completed 30 miles last night - on the road - beautiful
night.- though there's a lot of hills here in Tipperary.
I think my front derailer needs a little
more tweeking.....2 click story from small to middle cog upwards and a
fair bit of pressure,nothing like changing the rear.
Should the saddle be much higher than the bars or is it where
I find comfortable ( probably with bars higher than saddle - on the
road anyway,I get a pain in my neck from crouching down and trying to
watch out for stray cows/cars ahead etc....)
B.
|
| 1954.21 | I'm no expert, but I ride a lot! | SALEM::SHAW | Vertical Obsession... | Wed Jun 19 1991 11:58 | 19 |
| re:-1
The position of the saddle as oppossed to the bar is something you
decide when you by the bike as to the bikes dimenssions and head/seat
angle. Once you have the bike the only way to correct that, (that I
know of) is with a different stem, or crank arm length. Your saddle
should be at a position that when you have your pedel all the way down
there is a 15 to 20 degree bend in your knee. You don't want to sit
so far up that your legs are extended all the way and your knees
locked. This will put a little too much strain on your hamstrings.
On rougher terrain, sometimes I lower my seat even a little furthur
to make sure my feet can easily touch the ground if needed. and
believe me if you do some gong ho downhills it comes handy.
As for the front shifter, what it might be, is when your cables are new
they are not quite streched out. So after a few month of use they might
need a little tightening.
Shaw
|
| 1954.22 | brake noise | HELIX::MCGRAY | | Wed Jun 19 1991 12:54 | 6 |
|
re .-2
My breaks squeal pretty loudly sometimes too (not all the time).
The dealer said that's normal because the brake pads are angled
slightly in. Is that true???
|
| 1954.23 | STI STANDS FOR... | WMOIS::C_GIROUARD | | Wed Jun 19 1991 15:01 | 4 |
| BTW, STI stands for Shimano Total Integration. It means all of
their shifting stuff, e.g. hyperglide, SIS, SL, etc...
Chip
|
| 1954.24 | au contraire | SHALOT::ELLIS | John Lee Ellis - assembly required | Wed Jun 19 1991 16:28 | 8 |
|
RE: .-2
No, generally one "toes-in" the brake pads to get rid
of squealing (and for more uniform braking effect as you
apply more pressure).
-john
|
| 1954.25 | which way matters... | NOVA::FISHER | It's Spring | Wed Jun 19 1991 17:19 | 5 |
| re:.22,.24: depends on what direction. If they are toed in toward the
rear of the bike they will chatter or squeal, if they are toed in
toward the front of the bike, they ought not squeal.
ed
|
| 1954.26 | I may be forced to go look at these, yet | ELMAGO::TTOMBAUGH | A Fistful of Epoxy | Thu Jun 20 1991 13:15 | 17 |
| re .20
The index//non-indexed mode select is normally a notched ring
at the base of the shift lever. As the ring is rotated, the different
modes are selected. It should have reference marks on the ring and
a positive detent to stop it at each position.
If you're refering to the brake lever pivot screws, the only reason
I can think of to spring load them is to prevent them from falling
out as quickly if they should loosen up.
As the other notes said, toe-in on the pads will help prevent squeal,
but you may have brake pad material deposited on the rim sidewalls
and/or the pads have developed a glaze on the braking surface.
Clean both and see what happens.
Terry
|
| 1954.27 | 2 questions... | SOLVIT::CAMPBELL_S | | Thu Jun 20 1991 19:58 | 9 |
|
I don't think there is a "index/non-index" lever on the rapid fire
shifters. You're stuck with index.
Those spring loaded screws on the brake levers adjust the "reach" of
the brake levers for people with smaller hands...
Stew
|
| 1954.28 | | MEALA::B_WALSH | | Tue Jun 25 1991 06:50 | 31 |
|
I've come to the conclusion that the Trek 830's rapid fire shifters
are permanently set to indexed mode.
My brake have stopped squeeking - thank's to the toeing in tip. -
On brake calipers.. I find that of the 2 brake calipers 1 is spring
loaded and the other is pretty much fixed so when I put the brake on
the spring loaded caliper has to move 2-3 times the distance...Should
both calipers be very free when the cable is disconnected - my fixed
one is fairly stiff and seem to have a pretty good memory hence wheel
rub.
Shaw....
On the saddle height - most mountain bikes I see normally have
anything up to 10 inches of saddle stem showing looks uncomfortable...
I'll give it a try - You gave me knee angles of 15-20 degrees when
my peddle's were fully extended down should this not be 90 degrees
plus the 15-20 ???
I've recently discovered it's now necessary for me to buy mud-gaurds
we ain't getting much of a summer !! What I'm offered locally are 2
types a plastic German made set "clip on" - maybe fall off ?? and an
alluminium set both for around $20 any ideas ???
My fried here just purchased a Raleigh Dune Dancer 19" Deore LX equip -
I gave the front derailers a try to see if they were 2-3 cli ck from iner
to middle cog .... Yip they sure were so I don't think mine are too
bad - thanks for all the advice.... Trek Doctor & Co.
Bye for now... Brian
|
| 1954.29 | Cantilevers, dont'cha just hate 'em? | RUTILE::MACFADYEN | That's not supposed to happen! | Tue Jun 25 1991 10:59 | 20 |
| Re brakes: I assume we're talking about cantilevers here? If so, then
yes, when the straddle cable is loose, then both cantilevers should
flop around equally. If one is stiff, I'd take it off (by loosening the
nut that holds it to the braze-on), clean and grease the bearing
surfaces, then replace.
Even if you get both brake cantilevers moving smoothly, one may still
be keener to move (when you pull on the brake lever) than the other.
This means that the spring tension between the two cantilevers is
unbalanced. The better models of cantilever allow you to adjust the
spring rate on one side to balance the tensions, although I've found
this to be a tricky adjustment. Getting both sides to move smoothly and
be centred can involve fiddling with the spring rate on one side, the
straddle cable length, and the position where the brake cable joins the
straddle cable.
Cantilevers look simple, but they're actually real pigs.
Rod
|
| 1954.30 | Seat position and ,,,, | SALEM::SHAW | Vertical Obsession... | Tue Jun 25 1991 11:27 | 18 |
|
RE: seat position,
Brian, you right! I guess I pictured it differently. I pictured a
vertical line going straight up from your knee, then a 15 degree bend
would seem about right. In simple words, at fully extended pedal
position, there should be a slight bend in your knee. Also remember
you want your feet to be pretty close to the ground while dashing down
a rough downhill. Speeking of which, I saw a mountain bike race on TV
this past weekend, from Vail CO. The speed of some of the riders going
by the radar gun, and this is through puddles, over rocks and stuff
was 47 mph. What a thrill that must be. Most riders howeve, had the
suspension forks. Has anyone had any experience with them? Are Rock
Shox worth the $450.00, do they improve your control that much that
the extra weight is worth the sacrifice (sp?).
Shaw
|
| 1954.31 | fender preferences | ULTRA::WITTENBERG | Uphill, Into the Wind | Tue Jun 25 1991 13:14 | 11 |
| About fenders (or should I call them mudguards?)
I've been very impressed by the Esge "Chromoplast" fenders.
They're very strong, and remarkably flexible (I installed a fender
designed for a 27" wheel on my recumbent which uses 20" wheels,
and it worked very well, and bent smoothly.)
The Zefal fenders have worked, but not as well, and they don't
seem quite as strong.
--David
|
| 1954.32 | Simple adjustment | DPDMAI::GUYER | | Thu Jun 27 1991 14:09 | 9 |
| I have found the brake tension on my son's bike fairly simple to
adjust. Unless you really think they are dirty inside I would not take
them apart. One side has a small allen screw in it. If that one sits
farther from the wheel than the other side then its' tension is too
tight and the screw should be turned counterclockwise. If it's closer
do the oposite. You should be able to get them even. If you can't
then maybe they need cleaning. Just keep in mind that there is some
tension on them even with the cable disconnected and you will have to
put them back that way.
|