Conference noted::bicycle

    The best way to solve problems like this is to head out with
    an experienced rider one evening for a short spin.  He or she
    should be able to figure out things like:
    
    o Whether your derailleur can handle a wider-ratio freewheel.
    o Whether your handlebars are too low, or your frame is too small.
    o Whether you need help on climbing technique.
    
    Without seeing things firsthand, it's hard to judge.  Fortunately,
    DEC is crawling with great cyclists!
    
    MATT

    There's quite a few notes here talking about this kind of upgrade, but,
    since I've upgraged my Lotus Eclair 12 speed, perhaps I can summarize.
    The following parts were needed:
    	1. Bottom bracket suitable for triple crank
    	2. Triple crank
    	3. Extended range front deraillure
    	4. Extended range rear deraillure
    The triple crank is the main thing you want, but you need the wider
    bottom bracket to put it on. Then, the standard range deraillures will
    probably not work - the front will not have enough height difference 
    between the large and small chainwheels to prevent the chain from
    dragging, and the rear will not be long enough to take up the larger
    difference in number of teeth on the triple.
    	If you buy the parts at a shop, know what your freewheel teeth
    counts are, especially the difference between the large and small cogs,
    and the size of the large cog. (ie. 32 - 13 = 19, 32 = largest). Those
    numbers and the count on the triple should allow them to chose the rear
    and front deraillures.
    	If you are ordering mail order, you need to become familiar with
    the capabilities of deraillures re. the above and make the numbers:
    a) difference between chainrings - to size front der.
    b) difference between cogs + difference between chainrings, and size 
         of largest cog - to size rear der.
    	Have fun!  - Chris

    	Frank,
    
    	Where are you located?
    
    	I agree with both .1 and .2. It would help to have an experienced
    	rider ride with you and see what adjustments can be made.
    
    	As John Ellis told me once (or implied, I don't remember), it
    	doesn't hurt to get the body in better shape, either.
    
    	Scott

	I had a granny gear (don't know the technical term) added to my
	Fuji.  Turned my 12-speed into an 18-speed.  I didn't need a new 
	deraillure, as the old one was able to handle the new gear.  

	I agree that maybe the body could have been in better shape, but
	I was going to be lugging 60 lbs of stuff around Germany for 5
	weeks and definitely NEEDED this gear!  It's saved my butt 
	(literally) a number of times since!

	Sue

    I rode about 20 miles one Saturday with one of my friends who
    had the granny gear installed before the bike was delivered new.
    It was unbelievably easier for him to climb hills than for me.
    I'm sure that his technique in down shifting and upshifting was
    lots better than mine, because he has been riding a long time.
    Is adding the granny gear a difficult or complex task?  Do you
    think that a good bike shop could install one for me?
    
    I thought the reply that suggested I ride with a more experienced
    rider, to get a better viewpoint on what I really need, was a good
    suggestion.  Thanks all, for your replies. I'd like to get the bike
    refitted soon, so that I can take advantage of the good riding days
    of the season.
    /fj

    	Frank,
    
    	Could you tell us where you live? Maybe one of us can
    	then decide if we're close enough to ride with you.
    
    	Scott

    Sure, I live in Windham, NH, just beyond Canobie Lake.  My riding from
    there is east, toward Kingston, where there are some good, protected
    off-highway routes; west, toward Nashua and southwesterly, through
    Pelham and Salem. Unfortunately, most of these rides inevitably include
    a traveled highway, in trying to make up a looping route out and back.
    What makes it possible is to go early enough in the morning, out there
    with the jogging folks, and when it is much less a threat to be
    peddling on the side of a busy thoroughfare.
    /fj

>    Can anyone advise the practicality of 1) adding another chainwheel
>    to get more help on the low end or 2) replacing the lower gears
>    with a ratio that is more suitable for the [long!], steep grades?

    Could you tell us what kind of set up you have now?  Count the number
    of teeth on each cog and on each chainwheel.

    Adding chainwheels is kind of expensive.  It might just be a matter
    of changing freewheels.

    -Jeff

    
    Yes, I echo -.1!  I myself use a 42/52 in the front, and only
    have to replace knees every season or so. (I do it when repacking
    the bottom bracket - similar tools required.)
    
    Seriously, check that freewheel, and if you are really going over
    the gargantuan hills, try a 39-tooth chainwheel (39/52).  A 39x28
    combo will work on most road bikes, and should get you up pretty
    steep walls, if you are in reasonable shape.
    
    -john

    re. last and 39X28 combo for steep walls...
    	And then there are those of us with weak knees and little strength
    who use ridiculous things like a 24X32 for steeper grades...
    
	- Chris (who could get away with a 26X28 on a regular bike)

    Thanks, everyone, for really helpful ideas.  And thanks, too, for
    those who have offered to ride with me this fall. I appreciate your
    answers and your experience.
    /fj