Conference noted::bicycle

Hi All,

This has been a real interesting year for me.  I had almost 3,000 miles on the 
year two months ago, and was doing a lot of miles on the stoking seat of a 
tandem even did a double century in June.    Then I hiked a major  hike in the
Presidential Range of the White Mountains and am now trying very hard to
take care of a damaged knee (the hard smooth tissue behind the knee cap is 
soft - the Doc said 1-2 mos recover if I don't abuse it further)

In the last 2 months I've done ONLY 100 miles. It's driving me nuts.  Now I
know that walking is actually harder and worse for my knee than cycling. So all
things point to cycling again. Here comes the tough part - an athletic 
mentality.  I MUST go slow and easy.  Ugh!   

Here's the two part question:

1) I happen to have the tandem for 3 weeks while my tandem partner is off
in California.  My significant other and I rode it twice this weekend, me
captaining no problems.  He is not a "seasoned" cyclist and does not have the 
athletes mentality.   I thinkin' that this may be a great way to slow down 
given that I've got the shifting responsiblities and can shift for the comfort
of the bad knee.

I'd like some honest feed back on this as a way to impose the slow and easy
riding style.

2) I'm now looking at needing to transport a tandem, either when borrowing
or if I purchase one. I have a truck with 3 bike mounts in it, but it gets
a big 10 mpg.  I have a car with a THULE rack.  Does THUle make a tandem 
rack? I need one that leaves the front wheel on and grabs the frame or
one that does not rest on the bottom bracket.  Any suggestions? (i'd 
prefer to not switch to a Jakima - sp?).

Thanks,
Danielle

	I have a related problem to the headset.  It doesn't feel
	loose but it almost feels like it's notched in a straight
	ahead location.

	What I mean is, the steering stays pointed straight , almost
	as if it was in a groove in the headset.  It takes no effort to
	turn and the steering feels fine, but just sort of strange
	as I'm walking the bike holding it by the stem.  A friend
	had a similar problem but hasn't taken the time to resolve it.
	Is it a concern?  

	Thanks
	Kevin

>	What I mean is, the steering stays pointed straight , almost
>	as if it was in a groove in the headset.  It takes no effort to

That's easy! You've got a groove in your headset! :-) Actually, in all 
likelihood, you DO. As the bike is ridden, road shocks cause the headset 
races to become pitted over time, with most of the damage corresponding 
to the position the bearing are in when the bike is pointed straight 
ahead. You'd probably notice an improvement in your steering if you got 
a new headset, but in general it's not a 'critical - replace 
IMMEDIATELY' item. There's a batch of notes in here about headset 
problems, also...
                              ken

RE>.0

It sounds like you are using one tool to tighten the headset. This won't work
as well as using two tools together. Grease the threads, tighten the adjustable
cup so the stearing is just a little tight but no too tight, then with the
wrench holding the adjustable cup stationary tighten the top nut clockwise.
When you feel the top nut tighten against the cup, push the tools together to
snug things up just a bit. If the job is done right the adjustment will be just
right and the two nuts will be holding each other in place.

RE>.2

See Note 832  titled "HEADSET WOES"

Tom

    re .3
    	You may have one of the new SIS (Shimano Indexed Steering)
    headsets.  What won't those marketeers come up with next?
    
    Larry

    
    	I am the friend of re.2 that has finally taken the time to
    	replace the notched headset.  I bought Shimano 105 SC to replace
    	my three year old Shimano 105.   
    
    	Now the problem and the question is: I cannot get the bottom race
    	on the fork,  do I need a special tool to the force it onto the
    	flange?  Or is there a trick to doing this operation?  I dont 
    	believe they sent me the wrong one (English/Italian thread) but I 
    	will look into the possibility.  
     
    	The only difference between the two is that the new one has a 
    	retatiner ring in the center of the bottom race that looks as
    	though it helps retain grease.  It does not have anything to do
    	with my problem though because it doesn't even get to that 
    	point before I have the difficulty.
      
    	I just can't get it to fit over the flange to the point of banging 
    	it the rest of the way?                           
        
    	Any input from previous experiences will be appreciated. 
    
    	Thanks,
    	Steve G. 

    
    A reasonable question.  There is a special tool for this.  (Isn't there
    for everything?)  Bike shops and tool aficionados use a tube that
    slides over the fork's tube, but contacts nicely with the race.
    They then use a mal(against the oversized tube) to knock the race
    into place ... and hopefully not awry.
    
    Someone else may be able to say if it's safe trying to do this
    operation more primitively.
    
    -john

>    	Now the problem and the question is: I cannot get the bottom race
>    	on the fork,  do I need a special tool to the force it onto the
>    	flange?  Or is there a trick to doing this operation?
>            
>    	Any input from previous experiences will be appreciated. 
    
    
    OK, here's my homegrown primitive method.
    
    1. Grease the fork where the bottom race will sit. Slide the race over
       the fork steerer tube as far as it will go.
    
    2. With the upper part of the lower race already fitted to the frame
       head-tube:
    (sensitive mechanics please now read no further!)
    
       Slide the fork steerer tube into the headtube nearly all the way; 
       now start banging it against the lower headset race. You ought to
       find that this forces the lower part of the lower race onto the fork,
       and squarely too.
    
    I did this recently with a 105 headset, and it worked. The bearing
    surfaces *don't* seem to be damaged - the headset is certainly very
    smooth.
    
    Of course, this procedure to be performed at the owner's risk...
    
    
    Rod
    

	I read your previous note about wheel-building which I thought a bit
heavy handed - I feel the same about this !!

	I use a big piece of pipe which has been parted off in a lathe and is
just large enough to slide over the fork column.  You can use it like an impact
hammer and being made of s--- metal it doesn't damage the fork race.
	However - be warned that headsets are notorious for being different in
this respect, Campag changed their design from (small) to (a bit bigger) which
meant some fiddling with bits of packing.  Also frame manufacturers seem to have
different ideas of the 'standard' diameter of the seating above the fork crown.
If in doubt, take the old crown race and the fork to the shop !!

	I have a problem with cheap headsets, I ride very straight and they pit
very quickly.  The only solution I have found is to buy the best I can afford,
which teands to be Campag.  I would be interested in any experiences on the
taper roller style promoted by Stronglight.

PS Rod - thanks for the Comics, much fingered - I have a colleague coming over
with a load in September so will be in touch......

    
    RE: experience with headset
    
    Short friends (shorter than me!!) who have had lots of pitting
    problems have had great results with the Stronglight.
    
    The old Campagnolo (Super Record) seems to pit at the merest
    provocation.  This is my personal experience, and others'.
    The new Sel-Form headsets do much better.  My C-Record has
    developed one small notch (centered, fortunately).  
    
    -john

I've had super luck with the Stronglight headsets, but no recent 
experiences, as it's been a long time since I needed to replace one. The 
pipe trick seemed to be a good idea, but haven't tired it myself. 
Whatever you try, it's better to avoid whaling on the rolling surfaces 
of the races.

Finally, another option is sometimes to re-use the old crown race if 
possible. Usually not, but in some cases the upper portions of the 
headset will be damaged and the bottom still relatively OK...

       ken-who's-going-to-miss-his-lunch-ride-today-cuz-he's-at-ZK-
                   instead-of-MK

I also, have had super luck with my Stronglight headset in my 54cm BASSO frame.
I never have to tighten this thing as I do with my winter beater (shimano).
Plus it has a clean look to it must be more "aero". I'll have to conduct some
roll down tests and see ;-)

I would get another one in an instant if this one needed replacement, even if
it is twice the $.

Tom

>            <<< Note 1708.9 by IDEFIX::HEMMINGS "Lanterne Rouge" >>>
>                   -< The Rod School of bike maintenance... >-
>
>	I read your previous note about wheel-building which I thought a bit
> heavy handed - I feel the same about this !!
     
    What cheek. Anyway after my wheels have been through wheelbuilding,
    actual riding doesn't bother them.
    
    You asked about roller-bearing headsets. I haven't used the Stronglight
    one, but I've had a Red S headset on my touring bike for some time now.
    This is slightly unusual in that all cups are made of plastic, the
    bearing surfaces are steel rings, and the roller bearings are encased
    in a plastic cage. This is proving to be a very durable headset indeed,
    I've had it apart a few times and the bearing surfaces show no signs of
    pitting. The only drawback to this particular headset is that when it's
    adjusted for no play, it's slightly too tight from a steering point of
    view: I'd put this down to the flexible plastic construction, although
    this flexibility makes it highly resistant to shock damage.
    
    I'm surprised the big manufacturers don't produce roller bearing
    headsets, it seems such a natural solution to the problem of notching.
    Maybe that's why they don't do it...
    
    
    Rod