Conference noted::bicycle

    I rode at least once a week last winter, all in southern NH.  I don't
    think there's much to worry about other than salt and ice.  The salt
    will destroy your components so go cheap, whatever you do.  I think
    the wet salted water that you pick up will destroy your chain, too.
    That's why I like to buy Sedis when they're on clearance sales in
    Nashbar.
    
    I wouldn't take a good bike out though.
    
    As for riding to the North Pole, see note 1329.  The Iditabike is
    not even as far as the Arctic Circle but it's up there.  I think
    supplies would be the biggest problem but you might be able to
    pull a trailer with a few days goodies and such if you could fit
    everything in your panniers.  The winds could be bad news.
    I think that someone could do it (but not me, thank you).
    
    ed

    
    As Ed said, the problems are chiefly salt, salt, and salt (and
    water)... not coldth per se.
    
    Other than that, tires seem to wear differently over time in winter - 
    more cracking, less "vaporizing" from egg-frying temperature on the
    asphalt.  You might choose something lighter for chain-lube, as well,
    if you use, say a heavyweight such as Phil Woods in the summer.
    
    -john

>o  Tires and Tubes - Is there a brand or tread that "works" better in the 
>   cold? (I would not be surprised to find 19mm "knobbies").

    I have a specialized tri-cross knobby that is 27x1-3/8.  I usually
    put it on the back and put a tire with a center ridge in the front.
    I figure that I would rather steer than stop.

>o  Frame - Can I damage my CrMo frame riding in cold temperatures?  How about
>   other frame materials?
>o  Rims - Same concern as the Frame.  How does aluminum hold up to the cold?
>o  Brakes - Mostly the pads.  Is there a cold-weather brand?

    The worst damage is from road salt and rust.  With braking it's
    the same problem as riding in the rain; the rims get wet.

>o  Electronics - I noticed that my Cateye seems a bit sluggish lately.  I've 
>   lost the instructions by now.  Does anyone know the operating temperature
>   range? 

    One problem that you might have with electronics is that the
    batteries will lose some of their oomph.  Keeping them in your
    pocket when you park might help.

    You might be seeing the effect of the cold on the LCD display.
    The display changes a lot more slowly when it's cold.  Try putting
    it into the freezer for a few minutes and watch if the numbers
    sort of fade from one to the next.


    Nobody had mentioned the worst problem....  ICE.
    If there is an icy patch in the road, get lined up before you cross.
    While on the ice, try to avoid turning, braking or accelerating.
    White ice does have enough friction to go straight on it.
    Black ice is another story.

    -Jeff

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>>    think there's much to worry about other than salt and ice.  The salt
>>    will destroy your components so go cheap, whatever you do.  I think
  
    Ditto - I tried to pull the cranks off of my old Schwinn beater that
    I used all last winter and they appear to be sealed forever, or for
    at least another winter.
    
>>    I wouldn't take a good bike out though.
  
    I agree....go to a Police Auction and pick yourself up some
    cheap transportation (I have a Shogun 200 that only needs rear 
    deraileur if your desperate or just can't find anything else)
    
     >>As for riding to the North Pole, see note 1329.  The Iditabike is
     ......
     >>I think that someone could do it (but not me, thank you).
    
    Well there goes the Digital Bike Clubs hopes for another year.
    
    Another consideration for your bike is a large bag or bags.  In
    addition to storing the additional layers of clothing you'll be
    putting on and taking off you can keep your fluids from freezing.
    It's no fun to take a pull at your water bottle and finding out
    that it'll be a while before it's liquid again.
    
    If you use a rear rack bag you will also have the advantage of
    not needing a rear fender to keep the crud from climbing up your
    back on those noon time run off days.
    
    As far as electronics go, I don't think there is anything out there
    that's reliable in the cold since they are all battery operated.  
    My advice is to leave your cateye home and just carry a watch.
    I think Phil already stated that winter mileage and avg. speed
    will only get you closer to burnout or worse, bruised joints/muscles.
    Winter is definately time to slow down and have fun....or else.
    
    But then again, if your the guy in MKO2 that bikes in from Peterboro
    area most days and declined an offer from me to throw the bike in
    the truck in the freezing rain last Nov/Dec....you must already know
    all this stuff :^)
    						_Jerry

    I more or less ride year round unless it's freezing rain or any of that
    (though I have had to ride home thru that stuff a few times after being
    caught out in it on rides.)

    It's a *big* help to have fenders on your winter/early spring bike.
    It cuts down dramatically on the crud that gets on your bike (and you.)

    It is hard on components - I've had the likes of Phil Woods bottom
    brackets fail after a year or so, though normal non-sealed wheel
    bearings like Campy have no problems whatsoever.  You will end up
    trashing the chain and freewheel cogs.  I clean the worst of the sand
    and salt off the bike with a little water when I get home and store the
    bike inside.

    I don't use anything special for tires - the same clinchers I normally
    ride.  I've also used tubulars with no problems.

    The CATEYE display is sluggish in the cold, but it still works.
    It's important to cover the thing with saran wrap or other plastic
    becase it isn't waterproof (despite their claims.)

    When the roads clear in the spring, I just replace things like the
    chain, freewheel cogs, brake cables, and clean and repack the bearings
    and that's it.  You should be sure to remove, regrease and reseat thins
    like the handlebar stem and seatpost, anything where there is a risk of
    corrosion causing the part to freeze in position.

    I'd say fenders are the most important part of all this.

    - Jim

    
    Some of my bikes have lived through cold, moist climates (Holland,
    Munich, NH, Mass.) and others haven't.  As everyone knows, the
    difference is like night and day.  I think a Boeing 737 would be
    excellent winter hardware, for escaping to a better climate. :-)
    
    (Seriously, I've ridden through all the stuff described, and I
    cringe at the long-term effects on the bike.  I used to spray my
    bike in the shower after a slushy, salty winter ride - probably
    did more harm than good, but you try what you can...)
    
    As to black ice, not much you can do about that. (Knee pads?) 
    I went on some Sunday morning bike-club rides last December in
    Antibes, and these guys would typically climb from the coast
    into the mountains, where it was in fact warm and sunny ... but
    you round a switchback into the shadows, and suddenly, wham!
    (The point being, it's hard to straighten out, even if you
    expect black ice, if your rounding a switchback!)
    
    "But I digress..."   -john

I was trying to avoid it, but it looks like I should clean up 'old Schwinn' and
use it after the salt season starts.  Riding that thing is like pedaling a 
Volkswagon.  Oh well, it'll keep my legs in shape.

Thanks for your help!  

re .4  No, I'm not the guy from Peterboro.  I ride in from Merrimack.

About this North Pole thing.  While riding last winter I would plan out a North
Pole expedition to take my mind off how cold I was.

hp