Conference noted::bicycle

    Well, you've come to the right note! I just had a performance horse
    built on a 3.0 with full Campy Chorus gruppo, Mavic MA40's, Regina
    f/w, etc... I had the bike since January and love it! I've logged
    1500+ miles already (about 1000 are on the trainer).
    
    I've had the occasion to do some distance and time trial work and
    I can tell you that I'm extremely pleased with the frame. This is
    what you get, and what you won't:
    
    WHAT YU GET:  - One of the stiffest production frames on the market
                  - One of the lightest production frames on the market
                  - A good reputation for quality
                  - One of the best buys (frame for the money) available
    
                  The frame's design will serve both touring and racing
                  needs. No flex when cranking in a sprint or overloaded
                  with gear.
    
                  Very light so you're not pushing a bunch of metal
                  when you're looking for speed or when you've got
                  all of your personal belongings stowed away on it.
    
    WHAT YU DON'T GET:
    
                  - A repairable frame. Unfortunately, if you crash,
                    bend and dent, you're out of luck. Aluminum is
                    very unforgiving and when bent back loses its
                    strength/characteristics.
    
                  - I'm riding on Avocet's 20x700's. It doesn't provide
                    a smooth/cushy ride. I can't tell you what you get
                    if you go to a "continental" tire, but between the
                    rigid frame and 125 lbs. psi you definitely feel
                    the road.
    
    If it sounds like I'm sold on the frame, it's because I am (so far).
    One question, I paid approximately $430.00 for my frame alone with
    the aluminum fork. Did I get squashed or is there that much of delta
    when C-BALL thows 'em together at the factory. I know the frame's
    the same throughout their 6000 series aluminums but does the fork
    (Tange #1 on a model like the SR300 versus their aluminum make that
    much difference?) I think the aluminum fork has around a $75 price
    tag and the Tange #1 (steel) goes for $35. I'm sure the components
    are a real factor, e.g. Blaze, Maillard hubset and Mistral rims.
    
    I can't help you with an opinion on these components. I'm sure they'll
    do fine on a $550 (approx.) bicycle. Bottom line, do it! You've
    got a great foundation if you ever want to upgrade!
    
    Chip

< Note 1142.0 by HSOMAI::HARVEY >
                     -< Help with New CANNONDALE 3.0 BIKE >-

>    a bike. It is a CANNONDALE SR300 FOR $485.  It is my understanding
>    that it is a good racing/touring bike which fits in with what I
>    am interested in doing.

Tho I haven't ridden a 3.0 bike, I'd be a bit concerned that its handling 
characteristics are a bit radical for a 'racing/touring' bike.  Its supposedly
designed as a crit bike and therefore, the steering is rather quick.  The last 
time I rode a C'dale I found it very stiff, rather twitchy and harsh.  Fine 
for a crit, but not so good for longer, less frantic rides.

What kind of riding are you planning on doing?

Kevin    

    I want to start out with some very easy rides and work up to racing.
    My prime objective is fitness and eventually ride up to 50 miles 
    a day. 
    
    I figure on using the Cannondale for my everyday hard riding. Then I
    will probably get a inexpensive touring bike for long easy rides. I
    may even get a mountain bike later instead of the touring bike.
    I have read that you can use the ATB for some touring as well as
    off road racing.
    
     
    Sherwin
     

    Hi Sherwin.  Not to throw you off course, but have you checked out
    the Trek 1000?  This is a also an aluminum frame bicicyle that is
    intended primarily for entry level racing.  It rides quite well,
    but is reasonably stiff at the bottom bracket.  It takes all 205
    pounds of me in a sprint to cause any chain rub.
    
    I, too, am into touring.  However, I have been wanting to try some
    time trials and perhaps some entry level racing sometime in the
    future.  After about a month of shopping around (in total shock
    at how the prices have increased since last year!), I finally decided
    on the Trek 1000.  I'm very happy with it.  Chelmsford Cyclery has
    this bike for $499.  
    
    Remember, though, that if you crash an aluminum bike and damage
    the frame, it can't be repaired.
    
    Regards,
    Denis                                               
    

    	I'm with Chip on this one.  I have a C-Dale which I purchased
    as an SR300 for about $300.  The frame, at the time was the exact
    same frame on the $800-$1000 models and over time I upgraded it
    to an SR600.  First thing you'll want to do is upgrade the wheels.
    I opted for Shimano 600 hubs on Araya Tubular rims....wish I had
    gone for the Mavic Clinchers since it seems that I flat every time
    I ride it and have to buy a complete tire each time......then you'll
    want to upgrade the drive train.  I went with Shimano 600 SIS and
    a new set of Ultegra Cranks with Bio-pace...again I wish I had 
    stayed with round since all of my other steads are round and I find
    it annoying going back and forth, you do notice the differenc climbing
    though.....next I upgraded the handle bars because of the Modolo feel
    and instead of 600 brakes I sprung for the Campy Chorus...mostly
    because they look sleek, but also because I'm a pretty heavy guy
    and they are real beefy on the steeps.  Lastly I upgraded the seat post
    to a Campy New Record....since I was unaware of the 60 mph capability
    of the Aero C Record seat post.  I might make that my next upgrade :-)
    All of these upgrades have been over the course of several years and
    I'm finally about to finish it off which is why I have been looking
    seriously for a sleek little fully Italian job that I can start
    my next several year project on.  I'm really happy with the bike,
    and I'm glad I did it this way....you might be also.
    
    						Jerry
    BTW...If you see any inexpensive 59 cm Colnago's in your
    	  ventures to the various shops....please holler!

    
    Re; .2 It is twitchy and the steering's quick. It is like going
           from a Cadillac to an MG. I liken it to a sports car.
           I found it really radical for about the first 20 miles,
           but now I don't notice it all. It's extremely responsive
           and I love it that way. You can grow into almost anything!
    
           Harsh, yeah. But I think you can do a lot with the right
           tires. If you're looking for something in the middle the
           3.0 fits. If you're looking at 50 even 100 mile jaunts
           there shouldn't be a problem at all. I've done 35+ a few
           time and did not tire at all or get uncomfortable. Don't
           worry about that.
    
           ATB's will wear ya after about 30 miles. I haven't seen
           anyone or read anything that will support using an ATB
           for distances. That's not what they're made for. I've got
           one and wouldn't think of doing road work with it.
    
    Re; .3 Can't give inputs on the Trek 1000. Sound like the same
           package with the components a little different (Edge?)
           You get a chromoly fork, the frame is only 3cm's longer
           than the SR300 and the chainstay is 2.6cm's longer too.
           You probably won't get that quick response (I prefer that
           to calling my C-BALL twitchy) with the Trek because it
           won't be as short. Chainrings are the same (52-42) but the
           the freewheel on the SR300 will be 13-24 versus the 13-28
           that the Trek will bring. Looks like you'll get a "tad"
           better hubset with Trek, but you'll find people will 
           debate that. You'll get Mistral M-13L rims with the SR300
           and Matrix Titan Hard with the Trek. Again, real subjective
           stuff.
    
           My advice - go ride 'em! That's were the bottom lines will
           come together! That way, you won't leave the store scratching
           your head and wondering whether you made the right choice!
    
    P.S. I'm still voting C-DALE
    
    Chip

    Yeah, I agree.  Take some test rides...this will convince you what's
    best.
    
    Regards,
    Denis

    I took some test rides and I decided on the Cannondale.   I love
    it !!     It is the fastest bike I have ever ridden.  I got an Avocet
    Gel Seat and Look Clipless Pedals as an upgrade to the SR300.  
    
    I have fallen a couple of times trying to get used to the Clipless
    Pedals , but all in all I love the bike.  I appreciate everyone's
    advice and counsel.                                             
    
    Thanks 
    
    Sherwin
    
    

    ALRIGHT! ALRIGHT!  You won't be disappointed!
    
    Chip (real sports car feel to her, eh?)

    To revisit this note...

    I'm trying to make this decision right now.  I'm looking for a bike 
    for essentially the same purposes as Sherman was - primarily I want 
    a bike that will be fast, light, and fun to ride, with a good frame 
    that will be worth upgrading later if I want to.

    This bike will be an "upgrade" from a 12 year old Schwinn Caliente
    (yes, I know -- quit laughing) which has been gathering cobwebs in 
    the basement for the past 5 years or so (as I've gained several 
    inches in height).  So almost everything I've test-ridden felt just 
    great -- and my biking muscles are too out of shape to get them up 
    to any speed where I can discern a real difference.  And since I 
    haven't ridden in so long I'm not 100% sure what I'll want to do 
    with the bike (i.e., touring or racing) once I get it, so I'd like
    something that's suitable for both.

    It's pretty much come down to the Trek 1100 vs. the Cannondale
    SR300.  I like the way both of them ride.  The 1100 I like because
    it seems to be a quick bike with the third gear that would be useful
    on hills and for touring, plus it has braze-ons for a rack.  (I
    haven't actually ridden the Trek 1000 yet, but it seems like the
    obvious third choice with the frame of the 1100 and many of the
    components of the Cannondale).  Since I like the way both of the 
    other two ride, I can't imagine I'd dislike it.)  I probably have
    a slight preference for the ride of the Cannondale, but the test
    rides I took the two on were vastly different so it's hard to tell
    for sure.

    So here are my questions:

	o  Would all 3 bikes be good for both racing and (light) touring?
	o  How much do I really need a granny gear, anyway?
	o  Quality-wise, is there any difference between a Trek and a
	   Cannondale?
	o  Could I stow enough gear on a Cannondale or Trek 1000 to make
	   it useful for light touring (no tents or camping gear)?
	o  What differences in ride quality have other people noted
	   between the two/three (particularly going up hills or at
	   high speeds)?
	o  Any advice on Cannondale dealers in the general Nashua area?
	   (There seems to be a shortage of this model in my size and
	   preferred color, and I want to get it at a place that's good
	   for fitting and service... without waiting through another
	   month of nice weather waiting for it to come in).

    Thanks,
	Sharon

I don't know if you have seen it but C-dale offering any one of their frame
sets for $300 when you trade in any other frame.  I think I saw the ad in Velo
News.  The word "any" in "any other frame" was italicized so I guess you can go
to the junk yard and pull out an old Sears clunker to trade in.  If I remember
correctly the offer is only good until the end of this month.

    Anymore news on this?  I have an Old Cdale which I love.  My fiancee has
    has an old heavy thing.  It would be great to trade-in the frame.
    
    Can this be confirmed by calling the Cannondale number or does it use 
    something different.  Do you turn the frame into the dealer, or do you
    send the frame to Cannondale?
    
    Thanks in advance for any info
    
    Joe
    
    

    Well, I called a Cannondale dealer and yes, it's true (Since they 
    didn't mention that I'd have to send the back to Cannondale, I 
    assume a dealer will take care of that for you).  However, on the 
    bike I was looking at (SR300) it didn't result in a real price 
    difference (your mileage may vary; this dealer has a reputation 
    for being quite expensive and I was comparing the price they 
    quoted me against prices I'd gotten from other dealers who didn't 
    have my size +/or preferred color in stock.  Even with the frame
    trade-in, they were still higher.)

	Sharon

    Is this only when you buy the rest of the components from the dealer,
    or can you just grab the frame & assemble the bike yourself?
    
    
    						jb

>    Is this only when you buy the rest of the components from the dealer,
>    or can you just grab the frame & assemble the bike yourself?
    
    No components, no sweat.  You take in any frame.  Give them $300.  Walk
    out with the frame of choice.  At least, that is how it was explained
    to me by the dealers here in Minneapolis.  BUT, another dealer told me
    that only applied to their racing frames.  NOT the ATB or touring
    frames.  AND, even if it was all frame sets, THERE ISN'T A CANNONDALE
    FRAMESET IN 23 or 25" ANYWHERE IN MPLS!  I've been trying to find a 25"
    touring frame and cannot.
    
    Now Sports (local Cannondale deler) called Cannondale and found that
    they have lots of ST600 touring bikes and can get me one in 2 or 3
    days.  If someone has a phone number for Cannondale I'm going to call
    them directly and see if I can get a touring frame and get the deal...  
    
    Although, one thing I looked at - the ST600 is $589.  The frame is $300
    with trade.  I cannot get the full set of components required to match
    the built-up bike for $300.  Perhaps I should just get the whole
    bike...  But, if you have a full set of components laying around, it
    might work.
    
    Ah, well, in another note I'll pose the questions asking for
    comparisons between the Cannondale ST600 (once I get data on the
    Cannondale components) and its components and the TREK 1100 and its.

    My husband ordered an ATB frame and a touring frame from Cannondale,
    thru a local bike shop.  He's already received the ATB frame - just
    had to give them $300 and a grungy old Schwinn Varsity frame.  The
    touring frame is supposedly on the way.

    The bike shop here in Colo Spgs said Cannondale did this same deal
    last year, and the only problem was that some of the frames that people
    ordered never arrived - implying that Cannondale only has a certain
    number of these frames that they're selling at this price.

    - Diane

What I heard was that you get a racing frame set with the aluminum fork in
the color black. $300 for this frame AND the aluminum fork is worth it, but
I don't think it is worth it for the Mt bike frame seeing how another $150 gets
you a full bike with the same frame and fork. 

Tom

    Frame of your choice? Doesn't C-dale make a high end MTB frame? I
    can't believe all they offer are $450 dollar MT bikes.
    
    John

I no longer have the magazine with the ad but I clearly remember it saying that
they were offering any of their three frames, mountain, crit or a new road/tri
frame.

It is almost always a much better deal to get a complete bike rather than a
frame and the components separate.  However if the C-dale is a good frame, one
worthy of putting good components on, then the price is a very good deal.  You
really can't find a good frame set for less then $600, twice what they are
asking.  Most good frames will run much more than that which makes the deal
seem better and better.

I barely have two nickles to rub together at the moment or I'd get one.  If
they make this offer again when I have some more money in my pocket I'll do it.

     I forgot about the fork.  The Cannondale MTB frame came with a
     Ritchey Logic fork - included in the $300.

    I recently bought a Cateye Micro for my Cannondale.  I'm having a
    problem installing it, however, because the Cannondale 3.0 tubes are
    too wide.  I was able to improvise for the wheel sensor but not for the
    crank sensor.  The Cateye dealer was no help.  Has anyone successfully
    installed a Cateye Micro on a 3.0 frame?

    A bicycle shop I asked about how to do it recommended taking a spoke,
    cutting it off, putting a bend on the end and using a spoke nipple for
    a nut to hold it.  They claimed to have had good success with it.
    I did not try it.

     Ahhhhhhh.... Another C-Dale owner. I'll be moving on soon myself.
    Two options here with no other way out...
    
    OPTION #1: Cut part of the "band" (unthreaded side) and use a tie-wrap
               to secure it around the stay. Sounds funky, but works very
               well. This is the last set-up I used before getting a Vetta
               wireless.
    
    OPTION #2: The original set-up (that came from Gamache's when I
               purchased the bike) was almost the same (cutting part
               of the "band" that wraps around the stay), but they
               used a "water bottle" clamp to "band the band" to the stay.
               This worked extremely well too.
    
               Good Luck....
    
                             Chip

    I tried a variation on the same theme as -.1 and -.2.  With some
    nervousness, I cut off the threaded end (the only way I saw that it
    might work).  I then wrapped a wire tie around what was left of the
    band through the unthreaded hole.  Using pliers to pull the end of the
    wire tie, I pulled it as tight as I could.  It seemed to work fine
    during my Saturday ride, although it is definitely not as tight as the
    wheel sensor which I was able to put on the other chain stay.  I'll
    have to keep an eyye on it.
    
    Thanks for the help.

     Great and good luck. Mine stayed quite nicely. In fact the only time 
    I had to re-do it was when I repeatedly hit the thing changing wheels.
    The year before (when I wasn't changing wheels as much) I didn't have
    to touch it. 
    
       Chip

    I use nylon ties and a drop of crazy glue to keep it secure.

    
    I had my Cannondale M1000 stolen from our DIGITAL carpark last week
    much to my distress. So I am looking to get a new bike.
    
    The bikes I am interested in are the M900, Killer V 900 and the F700 
    (96 models).
    
    I am familiar with the M900 (being close to my M1000), but I would
    appreciate any comments on the Killer V and the F700.
    
    ...Simon

    
    Check out Cannondale's WWW site:  http://www.cannondale.com/  
    It has an on-line products catalog.

    
    I have a V frame F600 that I love.  I won this bike from
    GearWorks in Leominster, MA. during their grand opening.  This
    is a great shop!  I mean that sincerely, not just because I got
    the bike from them.

    What I like about the F600:
    o It's very light and stiff compared to the GT Avalanche I'd
      had for years.  The GT was a great bike, too.
    o The headshock (oil/elastomer).  Because it's built into the
      head tube, they can use a rigid fork. (If desired, the head-
      shock can be removed and an after-market suspension fork
      installed.)
    o Most of the standard equipment.  Vetta TT saddle, Coda cranks,
      IRC Piranha Pro tires, etc...  not all top-of-the-line, but
      it's good stuff.  I've even grown to love the GripShift 600
      shifters.

    What I didn't like about the F600:
    o The force40 brake cams!  These are a royal pain to adjust.
      If they're not adjusted perfectly, the brakes don't work -
      simple as that.  Even if they are adjusted, they don't
      work any better than the h pipes I replaced them with.
      (frame of reference: I'm 5'6" 150 lbs)

    Other upgrades I made:
    o XT deraileurs took the place of the stock STX (rear) and
      Alivio (front) deraileurs
    o Ritchey Logic clipless pedals replaced the Wellgo pedals
      and straps.


    From reading the http://www.cannondale.com/f700_main.html
    discription, I think I've come close to upgraded my F600 to 
    an F700.  I'm very happy with it.

    John
    

    
    I weighed up the advantages of the 3 Cannondales I liked - F700, KV 900
    and M900.
    I test rode them and eventually choose a KV 500. One factor was 
    that you can get this model in polished aluminium.
    I also liked the styling ( you either do or don't ).
    
    I should receive it by the end of January and I look forward to racing
    it this year.
    
    ...Simon