Conference noted::bicycle

    Err...uhm....Shouldn't you have asked before ordering it? :~)
    
    Actually, I really liked the Dura Ace chain I used last year.
    It's very tough -- overkill, actually.  You'll notice the 
    difference when you use a chain breaker on it.  But I think
    the only real justification for the chain's existence is that
    the ultraglide is such a piece of junk.  Most people aren't
    willing to pay $32 just to get a Shimano chain that works --
    they get six Sedisports instead.  That's what I'm doing now,
    myself.
    
    MATT

< Note 1109.0 by HYDRA::JOBRIEN "Give it a TRI" >
                      -< Dura Ace Chain- Is it worth it? >-

Last year I rode many 1000's of miles on 2 bikes, one with a Dura-Ace chain, 
the other, the lower priced narrow Shimano chain.  Both bikes running Ultegra 
600 SIS.  I could not tell the difference between them, they are both very 
quiet and shift extremely well.  And I probably put 2x the number of miles I 
should have on them (3000+ each).  I've just replaced one of them with the 
cheap (< $9) narrow Shimano chain and it seems to be as quiet.  

Since I don't notice the chains at all, I feel they must be excellent.  After 
all, if I did notice them, something must be wrong.  I don't understand why 
some folks think they are junk...

Kevin

    I first used a Shimano Uniglide chain with my Shimano 600 stuff.
    It worked well but not as quiet as I would have liked.  Then I switched
    to the Sedis sport chain.  I love it!  I'll never use another type
    of chain.  It's durable, and quiet as a whisper.  To me, I can't
    imagine spending more for a Dura Ace or any other chain.  Tons of
    people use the Sedis for Dura Ace, 600, or 105 equipment.  It's
    simply one of the best things you can do for your bike.  
    
    Dave

I use the 600 narrow with my Dura-Ace group.  I put about 5000 miles on the 
first one before it stuck on a shift and got folded upbetween the chain stay
and the inner ring and broke.  The second one had about 3000 when I switched
it for no other reason than I figured that you were "supposed to".  The old
uniglide was quite noisey, shifted great but was noisey, but the new narrow
is just about as quiet as a Sedisport and shifts much better (IMO of course).

It's funny that the Dura-Ace group doesn't include the chain.  When I put
the bike together I was suprized when they asked me what type of chain I 
wanted since I assumed it came with the group.

For the price of 1 DA chain you can get 5 Sedisports.  Religiously change
    chains every 1,000 miles, and you do not run as much risk of wearing
    out other members of your drive train.  I'm with Dave--I think
    Sedisport is the way to go.

>    Could chain wear/flex be the reason for my dirty shifting? Sometimes,
>    I have to "click" twice and then "unclick" to get it to ride smoothly
>    on the gear.

It's liable to be a combination of:
- slop in the gear-wire system
- derailleur wear
- sprocket wear
- chain wear
- degree of system cleanliness and lubrication

It may be that one of these, like chain wear, is the most significant
factor and that a simple chain replacement would improve shifting. Then 
again it could be a depressing mix of all of them, making the problem
more resistant to fixes and you less resistant to expensive upgrades.


Rod

    
    And remember that severe chain wear helps cause severe sprocket wear
    which is very costly...
    
    Graham.

    I found the problem.  Apparently, since I was running a 7-spd with an 8
    spd derailleur, I had the adjustment WAY over rotated (to the slack
    side).  After five full turn of the adjustment screw, it works fine.
    
    They tried to design this thing to fine tune on the fly -- no way.  It
    takes dismounting and patience.  At least it does if you're working
    with a "mish-mash" of Dura Ace generations like I am...
    
    R2