| I did practically the same thing two years ago. I bought an Italian
racing frame off of a guy when I had no money to spare. I told
myself at the time that I'd wait until I had the bucks to outfit
it right before switching from my FUJI, but....I couldn't stand it!
Like you, I had to start with the BB. Italian bikes are threaded
differently than Japanese (English). Since it was the first thing I
had to buy (and since I had a compatible Shimano 600 crank), I went all
out and got a Dura Ace. Afterwards, I literally went to different
shops begging for parts. I'd say, "Do you have any old wheels you're
getting rid of?" or "Do you have any specials on brakes?" I was
fortunate that one store was going out of business at the time;
I got half-off prices on most things. When that didn't work, I
headed out to the Nashbar Outlet -- in fact, I stalked the place
for weeks on end. I ended up with a bike that had a hodge-podge
of decent parts. Amazingly enough, they have all worked well
together (if only different brands of computers did the same!)
I've also had the pleasure of "upgrading" the components as I got
the money and spotted deals. The process is part of what makes
a bike "yours" rather than just the product of some company.
As to your specific questions, here are some opinions:
o Most people don't recommend mixing brands of BB and cranks.
Somebody who has a copy of Sutherland's could help you out,
though. I believe Sakae is owned by some other famous
component company (Suntour?), so you might be able to use a
Suntour Superbe BB with your existing crank. Better yet, you
might be able to find a whole Superbe crankset at a bargain price.
Don't lay out big bucks here, at any rate: most any alloy
crankset is good enough that you can't tell the difference.
o Check Nashbar for the derailleur. They had excellent ones for
$8 several months ago. Once again, I've found that virtually
any front derailleur can shift beautifully -- it's the rear that
counts.
o You could spend half the cost of a new headset just removing
and reinstalling your old one. This must be done professionally.
Also, spending $30 on a new one will leave your old frame usable.
Not a bad investment....
o Some things are just going to look goofy on your new frame.
On my FUJI, the handlebars were short-drop 39cm-wide affairs;
they drew laughter on the Olmo. The steering stem was too
short, the seatpost too narrow, and the pedals too...uhm...touristy.
Then there were the gears -- could I legally stick a long-cage
derailleur on an Italian race bike? But the upgrade that really
made a difference was changing the wheels. Of course, that also
costs the most!
In the end, you'll probably end up changing everything, at a slightly
more inflated cost than you would have paid for a complete bike.
Still, I think it's worth it. You'll learn a lot about
interoperability...
MATT
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| I did the same thing with my BASSO frame set.
> 1. I need to get a new bottom bracket. Should I get a the standard
> B.B. for my Sakae crank or try to upgrade to a compatible, but higher
> quality.
I got a Campy Chorus crank and BB and had it installed. It was
something I had in mind to get and it was cheaper to get what I
wanted once than to get a BB for the original crank, have it installed,
and later go out and get the Campy. Plus I didn't have the tools to do
it myself.
> 2. I will need to get a new braze on front der. Do I go low cost
> shimano 105 or go ahead and get an Athena or comparable and start
> building for the future now.
I got a Shimano 600 Ultegra. I love it. Its 100 times better than 105
> 3. I was told by the bikeshop I could use my old headset. I am
> wondering if I should invest in a new one however. Do they get
> worn to a particular bike? Will I see an appreciable difference?
> My headset appears to be working just fine now.
I left my old headset and crank on my old frame so I can easily move
my components over to my old frame in the winter.
> 4. Where would you in vest your money first in my upgrade plans?
Wheels, light and fast...
Tom
Brian Bobbitt
|
| See other notes re: front derailleur but I would recommend Shimano 600
for good price/performance.
You've made a good start by concentrating on the heart of the bike: the
frame. I don't know this for certain, but I think the threads on your
ITALIAN fork are not the same as the ones on your Trek (BSC). Get a new
headset and consider having it installed professionally to ensure that
the races are parallel.
The next most important thing is the wheels. Don't go crazy for the
most expensive hubs if you're on a budget but *do* get good, light heated
treated rims and stainless spokes.
A good crank is expensive but I recommend it too. I am in the processs of
restoring an old Atala and have just installed an Athena crank (which I
got mail order from Branford Bike for a good price) and it's great -
worth every penny.
Good luck,
Roger
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