Conference noted::bicycle

    I don't think the Vetta chain cleaner is up to the abuse you're
    heaping on the chain.  It's quite thin, and water goes right
    through it.  You should try the thick goop that comes in small
    green plastic containers called "Phil".  This resists most 
    anything that you throw at it -- but be aware that it picks 
    up quite a bit of dirt, so you'll have to clean your chain
    frequently.  
    
    I recommend using the Vetta unit to clean your chain, and then
    applying the Phil goop before you go riding.
    
    MATT
    (whose new custom mountain bike was stolen after one ride)

You're getting tight links because your chain is picking up crud, and 
the Vetta oil is probably aggravating the problem by wicking the crud 
into the chain.  This just doesn't happen nearly as much on a road bike 
because there isn't as much crud to stir up.

Take note that the Phil product mentioned in .1 is *not* Waterproof
Grease - it's Tenacious Oil. 

Paraffin wax is a better way to lubricate and protect an off-road chain,
though, because it's not "wet" and sticky.  It won't pick up crud nearly 
so rapidly.  What follows is the procedure for paraffining a chain -
it's something you should seriously consider doing outdoors, or at least
in an open garage.

Clean your chain with the Vetta thingummy, then take it off and reclean 
it in a solvent.  Clean your chainrings and freewheel cogs so you won't
contaminate the wax. 

			    NOTE

    Xylol is the best solvent I know for this purpose because 
    it is absolute *hell* on any oil or grease; and it's highly 
    volatile so that it evaporates quickly and cleanly.  It's
    also hell on people - it's rather more toxic than most other
    common solvents.  Use it with *good* ventilation, and that
    admonishment to avoid breathing the fumes means what it says.
    You can get xylol at paint supply stores.

With your chain *really* clean, immerse it in a pan of melted paraffin
wax (300 degrees F, 149 degrees C) for a full 10 minutes.  Keep the wax
away from heating coils or a flame - it'll ignite and make funny black
charred patterns all over you and anything else nearby.  (This sort of 
pattern isn't considered fashionable on even the wildest mountain bike.) 
Your "Fry Daddy" cooker is the ideal tool here, but factor in the
necessity of replacing it when your non-cyclist significant other finds
the taste of wax objectoinable in the next batch of chips.  Take the
chain out and hang it to let the wax drip.  Reinstall the chain, then
spin the gears to free the chain up and allow excess wax to flake off. 

Do this about every 300 miles, or when needed.  You don't have to use 
the xylol every time, because the paraffin will wash the small amount of 
accumulated grit out.

As a side point, you shouldn't need a chain tool to free up a tight
link.  All you need is to hold the chain on either side of the tight
link and flex it laterally back and forth. 

- Dick

    re .0: Yes, I think it's significant that you're using a Uniglide
    chain, because I think that the basic Uniglide at least is no good. I
    used a Uniglide chain last winter on my touring bike, which I was using
    for commuting, and I was getting the same tight link problem all the
    time. No amount of cleaning and LPS3-ing seemed to cure it. But buying
    a Sedis chain did, and that's what I recommend you do. Sedis is fully
    compatible with Shimano index gears, I've found.
    
    Re .1: My condolences on your loss! Was it insured?
    
    
    Rod 

    
    
    I had the same problem with a once new rock-hopper!
    I took the bike back to were I purchased it, got a
    new chain and that was that.
    
    If your bike is new (no more that a month) get a 
    differant chain put on the bike for free.
    
    John

Re: .3

> Yes, I think it's significant that you're using a Uniglide chain,
> because I think that the basic Uniglide at least is no good...

I dunno so much, Rod.  I've been using "gold" colored Uniglides on my 
road bike since maybe 1978, and I have never had even *one* tight link. 
I suppose that the brass plating on alternatem links could make these
chains less prone to tighten up than an ordinary blued chain.

- Dick

    Re -1: I take your point, that's why I qualified my condemnation to
    "the basic" Uniglide. I used a black (blued?) chain, called the
    Uniglide II, costing about the same as a black Sedis chain. If you've
    found the gold-coloured ones to be good, then I'm sure they are. But
    they cost a little more, no? 
    
    Anyway, most chains aren't expensive enough to be worth the hassle
    of putting up with sticky links every time you go for a cycle.
    
    Rod

    I agree with Rod. Throw away the bad chain and get a new Sedi.
    The same thing happend to me with my road bike this year, and after
    it drove me crazy I went out and bought a cheap Sedi-sport. It worked
    great on my SIS, and it only cost $4.50. I wish I had bought a couple
    at that price.
    
    Tom

    A friend of mine just had the same problem with his Uniglide!!
    He brought it back to the shop, got a new one and no problems...
    
    Bag it!!!!!
    Stew

    I guess I'll change my chain!
    
    I have a new Regina SL chain (hollow bushings - lightweight) hanging
    around. Any idea how this chain would hold up in off road use? 
    Maybe I'll give it a shot & if that doesn't work, I'll try a Sedis...
    
    Mark

                          
    	I would highly suggest you save the "Super-Light" chain for
    	a cherished road bike. I'm not a representative of Regina, but
    	I can state that the SL 50 chain was NOT designed for off-road
    	use. For flying over 6-foot diameter tree trunks, use a solid
    	chain, with real bushings, and flat link-plates (non-uniglide).
    	For lubrication, listen to the people who've already addressed
    	this topic of discussion, I never knew there was a science!
    
    						Maim some more dirt trails,
    							Good luck.

    
    I have two mountain bikes, (Stumpjumper and a Sierra), and have
    had every type of chain problem imaginable. I have several opinions
    which run against the grain of previous replies, but here goes...
         
      1) when I clean my chains, they get tight links like crazy.
         Don't ask me why, I really dont know. What matters is that
         EVERY SINGLE TIME I CLEAN A CHAIN, IT GETS TIGHT LINKS.
      2) Once you develop tight links, it is a bear to get rid of them.
         I think that if you were to mark those links, you would find
         the same tight links every time.
      3) When a chain is working smoothly, DON'T  CLEAN IT. A freewheel
         costs  only a few dollars more than a chain, and a dirty
         chain is not going to wear a freewheel down that quickly. Note:
         this is an observation made from several thousand miles on
         a mountain bike. You'll break more teeth on your freewheel
         from shifts in rough situations than you'll wear down with
         a dirty chain. Some people will say: a clean chain shifts 
         more smoothly....and it's true, but you won't  notice  a 
         TREMENDOUS  difference. What will drive you crazy is
         A CHAIN WITH LINKS THAT STICK. This is *far* more important
         on a mountain bike, and will make riding rough terrain
         difficult. You'll spend more time missing shifts and walking
         from a clean chain that sticks than from a dirty chain that
         doesn't. So if you're chain is shifting smoothly, DONT CLEAN
         IT. I know, I know......you hate for that $800 mountain bike
         to sit around with a dirty chain. But, that mountain bike
         is for riding, and a smooth chain is wonderful.
       4) DO scrape the crud off of everything occasionally (deraillers
           especially)
       5)MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL: EVERY TIME YOU GO OUT, LUBRICATE
         THE CHAIN. ***** EVERY TIME *****  USE A GOOD LUBRICANT 
         LIKE TRIFLOW. TRIFLOW WILL GRAB DIRT LIKE CRAZY, BUT YOU
         WILL AVOID TIGHT LINKS IF YOU LUBRICATE ***EVERY**** TIME.
         TAKE 15 SECONDS AND RUN A BEAD OF TRIFLOW ON THAT GRIMY, 
         UNCLEAN CHAIN_THAT_YOU_DID_NOT_CLEAN_AFTER_THE_LAST_RIDE_BECAUSE
         IT_SHIFTED_SOOOOOOOO_SMOOOOOTHLY, AND IT WILL CONTINUE TO 
         SHIFT SOOOOOOOO SMOOOOOOTHLY. Whenever the chain goes through
         water, dry it thoroughly and lubricate thoroughly. Rust
         can set in overnight and cause some links to get tight.
        6) Remember that tight links are also caused by poor shifts
            which bend the chain side ways. Shift smoothly and dont
           throw the chain (as much as possible). 
    
         Some may disagree with my methods, but after hours of aggravating
         rides and testing every approach imaginable, the above method
         works best for me.....Good Luck!!
    
         Doug
         

    
    I also go for the Sedisport chains.   I have only had tight links
    a few times.    One friend tells me I should try lubing it with
    dri-slide so that it attracts less dirt, although I am not having
    any problem with Triflow that I am using now.
    
    	I generally run my MB chains quite dry, and lube them as little
    as possible,  only when the squeaks drown out causual conversations.
    ;^)
    
	But once a chain is totally impregnated with dirt, it may
    be necessary to toss it out if you can't get all the hidden dirt
    out of it.   I had to do this once after a particularly muddy
    trail ride after which I had to *carry* my bike home.   That
    chain just didn't work right again (although I gave up on it
    after only a few hours.)

    	It's real dry here in Colorado.   Do you suppose people in
    wetter areas have more chain problems?   I am curious about this
    since I am planning some long range tours...
        
    					Alan.

    I think that people in wetter areas DO have more chain problems.
    A chain will rust like crazy in the southeast (where humidity is
    regularly 80-90% in the summer), and a wet chain will rust overnight.
    

    Thanks to the advice of those who suggested switching to a Sidisport
    chain, I now NEVER get tight links on the mountain bike! I don't
    miss the old Uniglide and it's 5-tight-links-pre-ride performance!  
    
    Mark