Conference noted::bicycle

    
    There are many in the Northeast area, most are framebuilders.
    The good ones are:
    
    Dave Hartranft, Lincoln, Ma.
    
    Betsy Weigle, Essex? CT.
    
    My favorite is my framebuilder (a biased opinion)
    
    Ted Wojcik
    Salisbury, Ma.
    617-388-4150
    
    mention my name
    
    Chris DeHahn
    
    

    
    Hartranft's number is (617) 259-8475.  His shop getts chilly in
    the winter, and the paint oven doesn't get up to full temp, so
    he preferrs to stop doing paint jobs at the end of October.  He's
    getting my Lotus for a 3-stage fade Imron job next month (blue to
    white to blue).  He did a pretty good job on my streamliner chassis
    (some corrections by someone else needed) so I know his framebuilding
    is passable, and I've seen the beautiful paint jobs he does. - Chris
     ps. He's at 11 Lewis St., near Lincoln Guide Service, just on the
         other side of the RR tracks.

Approximately how much does such a paint job cost?

My paint can use some attention, but I haven't decided whether to
try "patching" it myself or have a professional do it right.

Thanks,
David Buffo

    
    RE: .3
    
    You could pay $100 for a top quality job, including some preparation.
    
    Chuck
    

    
    You could pay over $200 for a top quality, multi-color fade, Imron,
    baked, paint job with total sand-blasting strip, and maybe a braze-on
    or three.  - Chris  who wants a Counterpoint.

    
    Example:
    
    Dave Hartranft charges $140 for a single color Imron job, no striping,
    color banding, fading etc.
    
    That's about average.
    
    CdH
    

< Note 145.2 by EUCLID::PAULHUS >
                             -< More on Hartranft >-
    
>   ...His shop getts chilly in the winter, and the paint oven doesn't get 
>   up to full temp, so he preferrs to stop doing paint jobs at the end of 
>   October...  


	His shop does get a bit cool in the winter...I guess he builds 
	frames during the winter, but does he batch them all in for
	painting in the Spring? 

	I have a frame built by him and like it and the paint job.
	Prices seem to have gone up a lot since I bought it though.

	Does anyone have more input on Connecticut builders?

	/Charlie

    
    The two CT builders of note are Richard Sachs and Peter Weigle.
    
    Both do excellent work. Peter's wife Betsy does the painting for
    his frames. Richard sends his out, last time we talked he was giving
    the work to CycleArt.
    
    Both builders aren't cheap, on the order of $1000-1200 for a full
    custom frame. They do, however, produce stock sized frames for
    considerably less.
    
    CdH
    

 The Nashoba Valley Pedelers got the following card in the mail:

    +----------------------------------------------------------+
    |                                                          |
    |   STRIP 'N SPLATTER                                      |
    |   Custom Bicycle Refinishing                             |
    |   ----------------------------------------------------   |
    |                                   Salem, Massachusetts   |
    |                                                          |
    |                                                          |
    |                                                          |
    |                                                          |
    |   LAWRIE PINKHAM                        (617) 741-2613   |
    |                                                          |
    +----------------------------------------------------------+

In the Washington DC area, I had a frame painted (sandblasted, painted, and
new lettering applied) by Alpine Cycles in Rockville, MD. Did a real nice
job. They also build nice frames..... don't have a # handy for them.

                                                     ken

    I bought a bicycle at a police auction that was in decent shape.
    I have stripped the paint off and cleaned up some bad spots and
    now want to get it repainted.  This isn't a racing bike, but isn't
    a Huffy either :-).

    I don't need anything extra fancy, but I am looking for a decent
    job that will last awhile.  Something that covers well, looks
    semi-respectable ;-), and won't chip easily.

    I called a bicycle shop or two and asked about this, but the
    closest recommended place is in Boulder.  I have thought about
    calling an auto painting shop, but haven't done this yet.  Any
    Coloradoans here that could recommend a place near the Springs?

    Any experienced painters have hints for me if I should decide to
    do it myself?  I have borrowed a small spray painting rig but
    don't have any experience using it.  

    Thanks in advance!

Since this is a police auction bike I'm guessing you don't want to spend a lot
of money.  Go ahead and call some auto body shops.  It shouldn't be a big deal
for them especially if you will take the same color that they are currently
painting on a car.  I once worked in a body shop and I never heard of anyone
doing this so I can't say for sure but it doesn't cost to try.  By the way,
speaking from experience most guys who work in auto shops are not bicycle
fans, you know the roads are for cars not bicycles, so don't expect to get
the job for free.

But the cheapest way is to just do it yourself.  I did this once a few years
ago with an old bike and it worked fine.  If you have the frame stripped
then just hang it by a string through the bottom bracket from the ceiling
and paint it with spray cans.  You will only need a can of metal primer,
a couple cans of your favorite color and maybe a can of clear top coat.
Just remember to tape over the any threads first.

    What are the major things to look out for in getting a frame repainted?
    If anyone has any recommendations on shops in or near Southampton,
    U.K., that would also be appreciated. I assume that Dupont Imron
    is the paint of choice. Also, personal recommendations strike me
    as the most reliable form of reference. What else am I missing?
    
    Thanks for your help. One advantage of the U.K. weather is I can
    still ride to work during the 'winter'. More like fall, really.

>    What are the major things to look out for in getting a frame repainted?

I'd go looking for someone who builds frames (as opposed to a shop that 
paints an occasional frame). Look at the frames they've painted, see if 
they did a nice job. Check out some of their bikes that have been on the 
road for a couple years if possible. If you have chrome on your bike (or 
want it when they refinish it) ask how they're going to handle it. I 
think removing chrome will required sandblasting the frame, and it seems 
like this may be the best way to handle your old paint, too. Ask what 
they're going to do about replacing any insignia (decals, 531 sticker, 
head tube crest, bike name, pin stripes, whatever).

Not in your area, but if there's anyone in the Washington DC area who 
wants a frame painted (or a frame) check out Alpine [Cycles? Frame 
Shop?] in Rockville MD. I'm riding one of their frames and have two of 
their paint jobs. Real nice work, I'd say.
                                               ken

    RE: .-2 (and .-1)
    
    I agree with .-1 -- ask questions about sandblasting, decals,
    and clear-coat over the Imron (yes, a good choice) and the
    decals.  I had my bike repainted in Durham NC by a guy who
    paints frames, and he did a great job.  He masked the chrome
    that wasn't rust-damaged, and sandblasted the rest of the
    frame.  You get the frame back and you have to let it cure
    for a bit.  (Previous notes may have mentioned this.)
    
    Also decide if there are more braze-ons you'd like - e.g.,
    for rear carrier or front panniers or that third water-bottle
    cage, or shifters (if you don't have that kind already)...
    this is your chance.
    
    By the way, when aforesaid nicely repainted bike two years later
    (a year ago) finally cracked (from age, not from the paint job!),
    I was in Reading, and went to my bike-shop person in Twyford, Berks,
    who said he had someone who would replace the tube and then repaint
    the bike.  I declined (age of the bike), and so I have no idea the
    calibre of the painter, etc. - but it's a lead if all else fails
    down south in Southampton.  The shop-owner is Peter Hare, at
    Twyford (734?) 340-408, who I judged to be quite good.
    
    Good luck.
    
    -john

    I've just had my Harry Hall touring frame fixed, enhanced and painted
    by Dave Russell Cycles in Slough (phone 0753 29880) (UK). 
    
    This is a terrific shop. It's smallish, untidy, and full of fabulous
    bikes and top-range components. He used to race, so is very into
    building racing frames. He's 753 accredited, I think. His own frames
    are very nice indeed, and usually have a fastback seat cluster (I think
    that's the right phrase!). 
    
    I bent the top tube on my bike. He replaced that (very cleanly), and I
    also had him add cantilever brake bosses and braze-on gear lever
    fittings. Then I had it painted bright yellow.
    
    When I went to collect it, he had one or two things still to do to the
    bike, one of which was replace the 531 decal. He was able to do this
    with the exact same decal, which pleased me - he said something about
    how sometimes you can only get a 531 "respray" decal, which wouldn't
    have been as satisfactory.
    
    Only thing is, should I get a clear top-coat now that all the transfers
    are on, and what could happen if I don't?
    
    Rod

    (Re myself in -1) 
    
    I'd still like to hear opinions as to the worth/necessity of a clear
    topcoat on a newly painted frame. Will the transfers fall off in the
    rain if I don't varnish the frame? What's a good varnish to use? Is it
    practicable for me to do it? 
    
    All you knowledgeable types out there must know...
    
    
    Rod

    
    	I think a clear topcoat is a good idea if you want to keep
    your decals.   I had a Masi with a clear finish over the decals
    and that bike kept looking good for years longer than other
    bikes where the decals were just on top of the paint.    If
    the decals aren't covered, they can be messed up by bicycle
    work stands or even just by sweaty hands if you carry the bike
    up and down the stairs...
    
    	The more coats the better.    A nice thick finish really
    looks nice.  
						Alan.

    The decals on my bike that had no clearcoat rapidly acquired
    a schizoid character (or schizoid characters, rather), that
    eventually rubbed off in parts completely.
    
    My new bike has clearcoat and looks great.  I'm getting the
    other repainted with Imron, and the guy is going to clearcoat
    over the decals as a matter of course.  That seems the way to go.
   
    -john

	Anybody have problems with IMRON paint flaking or peeling?
	Over the weekend I removed a piece of tape that I put on to 
	protect the paint from a pump bracket. When I took the tape
	off, a 1/2" square chunk of paint peeled off with it. 

	The bike is only 4 months old (a Santana tandem). It has IMRON
	paint w/ clearcoat over top. I'd expect this stuff to hold up 
	better than that. Oh well, guess I'll be calling the bike shop 
	today.

	/ken 

    It has been a while but I recall some of the folks painting race cars
    with Imron.  The stuff was very durable and held up well, but was
    EXTREMELY SUSCEPTIBLE TO PREPARATION.  They went through tremendous
    gyrations to get the surface properly prepared or the paint flaked,
    peeled, came off in clumps, etc.  Perhaps on your Santana they had a
    problem with the surface prep?  Or, if the primer is staying on the
    metal, there may have been an incompatibility between the Imron and the
    primer...  In either case, the mfr should FIX the problem, not just
    hand you a bottle of touch-up paint...  Cannondale has replaced frames
    for defective paintwork.

	We took the bike out to the shop (Belmont Wheelworks) to
	let them have a look at it. They're going to ship the bike back to
	Santana this winter to have it "evaluated." Most likely they'll
	repaint it. 

	He said that if it had happened on a chainstay, then they may not
	paint it because that area takes alot of abuse. The problem with
	ours happened on the diagonal tube below the stoker. 

	A big clue: On the paint near the peeled section, there are what 
	look like a couple pieces of fuzz under the paint. I figure I put 
	the tape on a piece of painted fuzz, and it lifted right off. 

	thanks for the input,
	/ken