Conference terri::cars_uk

There is a product that I have heard of here in the US that sounds very
interesting.  Supposedly you paint this *stuff* on the chassis of the car
covering the rust and all.  This paint contains chemicals which will convert the
rust to a black substance which will not corrode any further.  The black
coating that is left on the metal is supposed to be very strong and resistant to
all types of weathering.

I can't remember the name of it, but if it REALLY works, it sounds like it would
be best.

-Al

    I use VALSPAR black paint, covers well, looks nice and works every
    time. Thinned does well for coach painting.
    
    Mike

    re .1
    In Holland one brand off this stuff is called NOVOROX and it is 
    indeed very effective.
    It reacts with iron oxide and leaves a tough black surface. However
    I only have seen it in small bottles and it was pretty expensive
    so I use it for "repairing" wherever rust pops up. 
    
    re .0
    WAXOIL is the protected brandname of a rust prohibitive. Just like
    TECTYL. This forms a more or less flexible coating inside and out
    but does nothing to STOP rust already formed.
    
    Apart from NOVOROX and equivalents the only realy good body protector
    I have found was the TUFFKOTE-DINOL treatment. This means the car
    is injected with a moist repellant that also acts as an anti-oxidant.
    After this the parts are treated with a tough bituminous protective.
    Effective but also expensive.
    
    A relation of mine who ownes a Land Rover treated his vehicle with
    thin fish-oil. Amazing result. The chassis remains rust free.
    No smell either.
    
    Peter

    But land rovers are made out of alloy anyway?
    

    
    Not the chassis, only the bodywork.
    
    A bit like a Marcos (or a Lotus or a TVR) will rust if not looked
    after. The body can look great, but underneath there's nothing but
    rot!
    
    Mark

I used Hammerite black gloss on the rear quarter of my 240 when stone chips
started going rusty.  Cleaned them off first, primed with a rust treatment and
then painted with Hammerite.  Lasted 2 1/2 years and the rust is through again.

For chassis, many classic restorers I know who've done a bare metal job have it
grit-blasted to remove ALL the rust, heavily primed with red lead and then
sprayed with a non-setting paint such as stone-guard.  A friend who did his
1940 Morris this way back in the 60's hasn't had to touch it since, other than
a regular squirt of oil inside the sections.  The E-type is well painted
with stone-guard - and lathered with oil because the pump leaks a bit round
the gasket!!

BTW, I also have a Hammerite painted launching trolley for my boat.  That's
rusting after 2 years too.  Mind you, it is SALT water....twice a year!

Conclusion?  Hammerite does not like being in areas where it takes rough
treatment.

    I had the chassis of the +2 stripped (by dipping) and painted it with a
    good coating of primer and then IMRON - a very hard, epoxy based
    enamel.
    
    	-Barry-
    

Be very careful of IMRON.....it is extremely toxic and can cause death!

In fact, many of the newer two part paints are toxic to one degree or
another. If would leave it to professionals if you use them.    

    Thanks for mentioning that, Dick.
    
    Paint shops that shoot Imron are getting rare, here in the States.  The
    ones that do use very special breathing apparatus, such as full helmets
    with clean air flowing in.
    
    It is great paint - both in looks and durability, but there are some
    disadvantages - it is hard to repair a damaged area (blending in).
    
    What I used on the Elan body was acrylic enamel with a hardener - good
    tough paint that can be color sanded out (like lacquer) but with the
    hardness and durability of enamel.
    
    Remember, anybody can shoot on paint (and sand it smooth), the real key
    to a great paint job is the preparation.
    
    	-Barry-
    

    I want to 'touch up' some areas at the front of my car as a result of
    being peppered by the dreaded stone chippings.
    
    As most of the patches are only 1-2mm across, I don't really want to buy
    an aerosol can - I don't want to paint the whole town red!
    
    I would like to know whether touch up paints are still available in the
    small tin (with integral brush in lid) - remember the type? If they are
    not, how does one go about repairing these small paint chippings?
    
    Martin.

In the larger Halfords' (eg the superstores) there are rows and rows of "touch
up" paint such as you describe.  There's also a catalogue to help you choose
exactly the right colour.

The only difficulty you may have is if it's a colour which hasn't been used for
a long time, or wasn't very popular.  I don't think "Radiant Red" comes into
that category though.  Even if it does, there are so many reds you're bound to
find a close enough match!

Scott

    I know that Halfords sell small "thingies" of touch-up paint
    in small containers with brush...about the size of a "magic marker
    pen"
    best way of applying this...I'll leave to someone else...!!
    
    Paul
    

I'd be surprised if you can find a paint that'll stay on at the temperatures 
that an exhaust operates at.  Still, if you find any (and it stays on), then
let me know, I could use some - but only for asthetic reasons.

Dave

My Dad is fanatical about painting his exhaust.  I try to discourage him by
claiming that they corrode from inside out rather than outside in, but it doesn't
make any difference.

However, he has found that aluminium pain will stick to the manifold and
down-pipe if it is prepared well with sandpaper and then one of the phosphoric
acid agents such as Jenolite.

Mike.

    Martin,
    
    try Migro Brico-loisirs out near Meyrin. I think they may have what
    you're after on the ground floor. 
    
    Tony

    Re .17....
    
    
        Thanks for the explanation, Derek (got it right that time!).......         
                                                                               
    ...... I suppose in my mind I knew the answer was bound to be technical.....

    re.  exhaust paint
    
    I tried the 'hi temperature exhaust paint (here in the US)' and even
    followed the instructions - baked it in the oven after painting!  It
    didn't work.
    
    Best thing I found was Rustoleum Barbeque Black - a flat black that did
    hold up.
    
    Agree with the suggestion of getting the system either painted by a
    specialist or "porcelanized".  Have seen a few cars where that was done
    and it looked good.  Sorry, no sources in the UK.
    
    Suggestion - go with black or a dark color, silver will darken with
    heat.
    
    	-Barry-
    

	Yes you can get exhaust paint. It's expensive and I can't say
	as I was impressed.

	Save your money and buy a stainless system.

	-John

    
    Have you thought of Hammerite ?
    
    I've never used it for that purpose, but me thinks it could be a
    possibility.

    
    Sperex available in UK, as are several other hi-temp paints.
    
    They all work, but need quite frequent recoats. On my Karts, I used
    to spray exhausts every other race meeting (they looked prettier
    that way, & the scrutineer was less likely to be picky).
    
    I use black (matt or glossy), silver, red & green for different
    applications. No problems.            
    
    Available at any large motor facors.
    
    Colin
    

I've used Sperex with pretty good results on my AC (six pipes leading into
2).

The secret is to make sure ALL the old rust is gone and use Sperex primer
first. Unfortuneately, at least in the US, most stores that carry the paint
have never even heard of the primer. I got a shop that specializes in hot
rod supplies to order it for me.    

    I'm toying with the idea of getting a pro re-spray done.
    
    Does the panel have any local (reading) reccomendations?
    
    Mark

Any suggestions for a primer for painting rigid plastic? Top coat will be a 
normal car touch-up aerosol.  I did see some Holts stuff the other day -
can't remember the name but it was far too expensive. 

    I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild on my '67 Mini Cooper. What 
    kind of paint should I use on the engine? Also, does anyone know the
    proper colour name for the olive green-ish engine paint used by BMC 
    those days?
    
    Billy

    A Fellow called Bob Copson in Geneva went through this while restoring
    his '67 mk1.
    
    Send a mail to his wife, Giovanna Copson @GEO, who works for Digital.
    
    Paul