| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 181.1 | Ayup, it looks like rain | WJO::MARCHETTI | Mama said there'd be days like this. | Fri Sep 22 1989 15:08 | 13 |
| Note 1111.3 (ADDITIONS) lists some notes that deal with adding dormers
and second floors. We added a second floor to a split entry ranch by
going with a gambrel roof in front with 3 gable type dormers and a full
shed in back. The framing for a gambrel with dormers is more involved
and therefore more expensive.
We were uncovered (tarp only) for about 3 weeks. Of course, this
guaranteed that we would set a rain record for the month 8^(. Don't do
this in May or during hurricane season.
Bob (whose house sometimes felt it was a sailboat in a typhoon)
P.S. It was worth it.
|
| 181.2 | It's been a while, have to ask him about the details | LYCEUM::CURTIS | Dick "Aristotle" Curtis | Fri Sep 22 1989 15:16 | 32 |
| My father did this something like 17 years ago. He left portions of
most of the old rafters in place:
, ,
|\ |^-_
\ \ '- (the pitches for
\ \ '_ both roofs are
\ \ '_ shallower than the
\ \ '_ drawing indicates)
\ \ '_
-------\ -------\ +===+'_
\ \! !
\ + !
|\ | !
| \ | !
| \ | !
| \ | +
| |\ | |
| | | |
| | | |
---------+---+ ---------+---+
| |
I suspect that this may have had something to do with his leaving "some
of the original roof line" evident, in that he left the eaves all
'round the house (your question 3). Then too, removing them looked
to be a major bit of work, I think.
With a gambrel roof, wouldn't you need small dormers to accomodate
windows anyway?
Dick
|
| 181.3 | Thanks | ASHBY::BEFUMO | Knowledge perishes . . . understanding endures | Fri Sep 22 1989 16:38 | 11 |
|
Thanks folks, RE: [.-1], yes, it would require small gable dormers
for light, but I don't mind the way they look, and on a gambrel, you're
getting all kinds of floor space. On a standard cape (gable) roof, the
small gable dormers don't really buy you much other than light, and the
big shed dormers just don't look particularly good on the frront of a
house (just my opinion, of course). While I would expect that the more
complex gambrel roof would be more expensive, it seems that if it works
out to be 15-20% more than putting up two shed dormers it might be
worth it. Thanks again.
joe
|
| 181.4 | | DASXPS::TIMMONS | Mr. Behan, please! | Mon Sep 25 1989 10:36 | 20 |
| Last spring, I had a few estimates for doing exactly that: changing
my cape to the Gambrel style. The estimates for just the framing
and sheathing were in the 55K-70K range. That's right, not a finish
job, just the shell (roof, framing, siding, windows.)
When I asked why it was soooo much, the builders all said that a
Gambrel required more work, as the capes were not meant to have
a second floor whose walls extended past the first floor walls.
Therefore, the 2nd level flooring had to be extended over the first
floor for support purposes.
I ended up with a 16'X32' addition to the rear, instead. Still
working on it, but this was about 30K for a shell, 5 double-pane
windows, 2 double-pane skylights, 6' swinging patio door, full cellar,
break-thru to the existing house, removal of old aluminum siding
and installation of vinyl on entire house.
Hope this helps,
Lee
|
| 181.5 | It pays to buy the BEST... | ROLL::BEFUMO | Knowledge perishes . . . understanding endures | Mon Sep 25 1989 11:00 | 4 |
| re [.-1] - OUCH! Looks like a single shed dormer will have to do.
Homeowner sticker shock makes car-buying look like nothing!
Parenthetically, I went out to buy a fridge yesterday - I figured
"I'll go for $300.00-$350.00 & get the best on they have" . . . ;-)
|
| 181.6 | I've had estimates too. | BOMBE::INFANTE | | Mon Sep 25 1989 13:05 | 15 |
| I've gotten estimates for adding a full shed dormer to my cape.
The shed length would be 34' and the estimate was just for removing the
roof, and building and finishing the shell, including roofing and 3
double mullion windows. the estimates ranged from $7500 to 13000.
I didn't follow thru however because I decided to do the work myself
and
build 3 wide window dormers on the back of the house instead.
With regard to leaving some of the old roof exposed, I like the way it
would look but theres more possibility of a leak occurring in the
future that way.
good luck
frank
|
| 181.7 | Thanks again. | ROLL::BEFUMO | Knowledge perishes . . . understanding endures | Tue Sep 26 1989 13:31 | 7 |
| Thanks,
Depending on how brave I feel next spring I'll probably do it
myself. Watching a recent installment of "This Old House", in which a
Santa Barbara House sustained some considerable damage while its roof
was off, kind of scared me a bit, but what the heck, "nothing ventured,
nothing gained".
joe
|
| 181.8 | Hope you live in the Desert! (-: | LUNER::WEIER | | Tue Sep 26 1989 14:18 | 44 |
| We have a Gambrel that my husband added dormers to a few summers back.
He chalked out where the dormers would be, cut the holes in the roof,
covered with plastic, and it proceeded to pour. That weekend and every
weekend after for the next ~8 weeks. We were 'topless' almost all
summer, and all we have to show for it is a _small_ stain in the dining
room ceiling. This is not to say we weren't doing some heavy-duty
water catching upstairs, but if you're careful, and if you're home when
it rains, you can prevent most of the damage. If I remember correctly,
that episode of This Old (wet!) House, no one was near the house for
1-2 days, when it poured.
Get some HEAVY DUTY sheet plastic, a staple gun, and some buckets.
Make sure everyone in the house can use the staple gun so when the
plastic needs to be adjusted you don't have to come home from work and
climb a ladder in the midst of a lightening storm. (-:
It's probably obvious, but I would suggest adding the largest possible
'full' dormer that you can. Our house and our neighbor's is exactly
the same size. They have a cape, we have a gambrel, and the added
space inside is totally unbelieveable. Another way that we gained some
space, is instead of trying the straighten the slanted front wall, we
put the closet there, so the back wall of the closet is slanted, but
who cares?? It added a LOT of room in what otherwise (with a
conventional closet) would have been a pretty tiny bedroom. It also
added a little 'shape' and character so the room isn't just a square room.
In case you're wondering, the closet isn't cold - with 2x6
construction.
$55-70K seems OUTRAGEOUS!! We had a choice when building - cape or
Gambrel? - Gambrel was $1,000.00 more than the Cape, so the choice was
obvious. It's easier when building from scratch, but THAT different??
Maybe try calling a 'framer'?? Maybe they can tell you things you can
do yourself to make the change?? We're also in the process of
changing a 'regular' ceiling to a cathedral - it's a pain in the butt,
but we got the specs, found out the proper way to re-stress (so the
roof isn't lying in our bed some afternoon!), and are attacking the
ceiling board by board. If we were to hire someone to do it, I'm sure
it would be thousands of dollar-os
Best of Luck!! It's a pretty scarey feeling making that last big
cut through the roof to expose the interior of your house to Mother
Nature!
|
| 181.9 | Murphy's lurking around here somewhere... | ROLL::BEFUMO | Knowledge perishes . . . understanding endures | Tue Sep 26 1989 16:05 | 18 |
| Thanks once more! As I mentioned in the base note, I'd live to get the
maximum space upstairs, but I just HATE the way capes look with full
shed dormers on the front. I'm just about reconciled to simply adding
the shed dormer on the rear and, perhaps, a couple of gable dormers on
the front. Having read a few books (now I'm really dangerous), I feel
pretty confident that I could handle the dormer, but replacing the
roof with a gambrel feels a bit too ambitious. When my wife and I were
first married we lived on an old (1916), big (55') sailboat for a
couple of years. I started ripping up the decks on one side, when the
stuffing box started to leak & we had to be pulled out of the water.
While the boat was out I discovered a bad garboard (plank right near
the keel), and removed that. Needless to say, winter came early and
hard that year & we would up living on drydock (feels kind of like a
treehouse), with no electricity, no running water, and a traditional
cedar bucket (guess what that's for), till spring. In addition, the
wind used to whip up through the bottom & out the open deck area -
making it rather hard to keep the place above freezing. That's the
vision that comes to mind every time I think about this 8^)
|
| 181.10 | Trim can determine the style | TOKLAS::FELDMAN | Week 7: Final inspection (but still more to do) | Tue Sep 26 1989 16:11 | 25 |
| Some more comments:
The obvious way to get light in the front of a Cape while keeping a
contemporary look is to put in skylights instead of dormers.
Many of the Capes with shed dormers that I see on my drive home have
the dormer running the full length of the house, but still keep the
rake board of the original roof (or at least a board in the same
position). I have no idea whether this is done for ornamental or
structural reasons, but it may be worth investigating why this is done.
It would be a shame if this were a strucural requirement, since it
sounds like you wouldn't like it.
Finally, our rear shed dormer has the foot-and-a-half runners at each
end. Externally, I think it still preserves that "clean, geometric,
contemporary look", mostly because all our trim is the same color as
the house (except the windows and doors), we don't have shutters, and
the front roof with the skylights establishes the mood and style.
I prefer the runners to a full length dormer, where the gable
ends look unbalanced to me. But either way, the point is that if you
can't get quite the architecture you want, you can still have a very
strong influence on the resulting look through wise decisions on the
incidentals.
Gary
|
| 181.11 | Good point | ASHBY::BEFUMO | Knowledge perishes . . . understanding endures | Tue Sep 26 1989 17:28 | 9 |
| The cape I was renting has those remenants of the original roofline on
the back & I actually like the way it looks, both inside & outside.
However, It looks to me as if that would actually make the job more
difficult. Also, it does make furniture placement a bit tricky on the
inside (well, it might also make it tricky on the outside, if that's
where you like your furniture 8^) ). I know what you mean about the
unbalanced gables, though. I absolutely hated it the first time I saw
one, but I guess it kinda grows on ya. Thanks.
joe
|
| 181.12 | | DASXPS::TIMMONS | Junk Joint Noters Synonnymus Today | Wed Sep 27 1989 10:20 | 15 |
| Joe, I didn't mean to scare you off with the 55-70K, just wanted
you to know what I had run into. Get some estimates of your own.
Those were from some of the so-called "Complete Service" outfits.
You know, where they have architects on staff, right on down to
work crews. I didn't try any small contractors at the time, but
did so when we decided to go with the addition.
Too, the workload in your area can affect the bid. Busy times raise
estimates, so try a few before you commit to a plan. You might
make out a lot better than I did.
Good luck
Lee
|
| 181.13 | Dormers are cake | VISE::LEVESQUE | The Dukes a DINK! | Wed Sep 27 1989 12:20 | 12 |
|
I installed a full shed dormer on my house (cape) in 3 days. Thats
weather tight I should say. It took me months to find the time for
finish work inside. The cost for materials just too close in the dormer
was about 7,500 not including beer. Anyone wanting me to install one
for 70k just give me a call I'll be over in a heartbeat. Oh I should
mention my brother helped me with the whole process, he built his own
house and had lots of good ideas.
BAL
|
| 181.14 | 1/2 shed dormer - 7.8K finished | 5884::MCBRIDE | | Wed Sep 27 1989 16:26 | 9 |
| We just purchased a Saltcape or Capebox whichever way you wish to
look at it. It has the single floor walls of a Cape and the roof
line of a salt box. At any rate we got a quote for adding a 1/2
shed dormer to open up room for a second full bath upstairs and
expand a bedroom. The quoted price finished except for paint is
$7.8K. This includes fixtures. OOPS! I forgot, it does not
include flooring either.
Brian
|
| 181.15 | That's my kind of job! | ROLL::BEFUMO | Knowledge perishes . . . understanding endures | Thu Sep 28 1989 12:14 | 9 |
| Ahh, these seem like more reasonable numbers. Perhaps professional
estimators figure on :
materials : $7,800.00
beer : 62,200.00
----------
total : $70,000.00
Great work if you can get it.
|
| 181.16 | | DASXPS::TIMMONS | Junk Joint Synonymous Noters | Fri Sep 29 1989 13:49 | 4 |
| the 70K I mentioned was NOT for a dormer. It was to expand a cape
to a gambrel style. Quite a difference from a dormer or two.
Lee
|
| 181.17 | More to it than meets the eye? | ROLL::BEFUMO | Knowledge perishes . . . understanding endures | Mon Oct 02 1989 11:23 | 8 |
| Structurally, how does a gambrel differ from a dormered cape? It looks
to me as if it would go up just like a full shed dormer, with the face
on an angle, and no overhang at the upper roof line. The ones I've
been noticing don't necessarily have the upper story overhang the lower
any further than the present roof on my cape does, so I really can't
understand whythe job should be THAT mush more involved than doing two
full dormers. Of course, there's usually more to these things than
meets the eye...
|
| 181.18 | Questions about Roof Window Dormers? | HYSTER::MINUTI | | Tue Jul 03 1990 12:36 | 90 |
| Most of this note talks about full roof dormers but I'd like to get some
information about 'Window roof dormers'.
I have a straight front colonial that has a finished 3rd floor. I did all
work myself, but now that we have been using it for over a year I would like
to get more light into the room. All I have now is the windows on each side
of the house. What I was thinking of doing is putting 3 window dormers
across the front. I don't want roof windows(due to personal taste I would
perfer the window dormers).
Now this is a project I don't feel comfortable tackling myself,
First reason is the height(I become a nervous reck on high latters and roofs),
second is I don't feel I could do it properly.
What I am thinking of having done is hiring out the work for the
actual installation of the dormers, including siding and roof shingles. My
nephew will paint the outside to match the house(kid has no fear), and I will
do all the internal finish work(insulation, sheetrock, paint/stain, etc...)
What I'd like to ask here is would anyone know
. how much this would cost?
. How long it should take?
When I am asking for a price I realize that the price of the windows varies
greatly depending on what you get, so lets just pick a standard price of $150.00
per window so as to make the calcualtions easier. IF someone can't give me
a rough cost is there some formula I could use to help me figure this out?
I plan on getting 3 estimates but I want to know what I am looking at before
I call up and carpenters. Reason being if it is too much I might have to
put this off until next year.
Well I think thats it. Any help, pointers, suggestions, etc, would be
greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dino Minuti
THIS IS THE HOUSE NOW WITHOUT THE DORMERS!
--------------------------------------------
/\ \
/ \ \
/ \ \
/ ---- \ \
/ | | \ \
/ | | \ \
/ ---- \ \
/ \ \
| |-------------------------------------------|
| | |
| | ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- |
| | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- |
| | |
| | ___ |
| | ----- ----- / \ ----- ----- |
| | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | |o | | | | | |
| | ----- ----- | | ----- ----- |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| |-------------------------------------------|
THIS IS THE HOUSE AFTER THE DORMERS ARE INSTALLED!
--------------------------------------------
/\ \
/ \ \
/ \ /\ /\ /\ \
/ ---- \ / \ / \ / \ \
/ | | \ /----\ /----\ /----\ \
/ | | \ | | | | | | \
/ ---- \ | | | | | | \
/ \ ---- ---- ---- \
/ \ \
| |-------------------------------------------|
| | |
| | ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- |
| | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- |
| | |
| | ___ |
| | ----- ----- / \ ----- ----- |
| | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | |o | | | | | |
| | ----- ----- | | ----- ----- |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| |-------------------------------------------|
|
| 181.19 | Would you consider full shed on back? | SALEM::LAYTON | | Tue Jul 03 1990 13:09 | 9 |
| Dormers take a fair amount of time to build and assemble, create
valleys that are somewhat more difficult to shingle, and put windows
at the end of longish tunnels, that cut down on light. However,
they do maintain a period style on the front of the house. I think
you'll find that a full shed dormer on the back of the house (if
it doesn't have one yet) will be less expensive, let in more light,
and create a bunch more floor space.
Carl
|
| 181.20 | make them wide | SHALDU::MCBLANE | | Tue Jul 03 1990 13:26 | 11 |
| If you do go with the 3 gable doormers as you originally wanted,
I would suggest getting them 5-6' wide instead of the standard 4'.
then they let in light *and* you can actually put furniture (like a
chair) in them. I shouldn't cost much extra either because the guy
is already there doing the work. He'll just need a few extra materials.
I've also seen neat ideas for putting book cases or drawers in the
walls of the dormer, since towards the floor next to the wall is
just the eve's of the house.
-Amy
|
| 181.21 | shed with extended roof | SHALDU::MCBLANE | | Tue Jul 03 1990 13:39 | 21 |
| Oh yeah, one more thing. If you decide to do the shed dormer, depending
on the steepness of the roof and the dimensions of the house, you may
want to ask the contractor to extend the non-dormer side of the roof
and then slope the shed dormer down from the new peak. This will give you
a higher wall at the lowest point of the shed dormer.
extended --> x
x x
x .
. . .
standard ----.-->. .
shed . .
. .
-----------------------.
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
-Amy
|
| 181.22 | I want window dormers not a shed dormer. | HYSTER::MINUTI | | Tue Jul 03 1990 15:02 | 18 |
| I have decided to not go with a full shed dormer. My main reason is
property taxes. I am presently being taxed on a 2 1/2 story building
and if I just put window dormers on the front I will NOT increase my
living space and thus will not be taxed as larger house. If I put a
full shed dormer on the house I will be taxed for a 2 3/4 house as I
will be increasing the living space. This my seem trivial to some
people but anyone who lives in NH knows that property taxes are
very-very high and I don't want to make them higher. Also due to
the way the house is made, I would perfer to look out the front
of the house rather than the back.
I find it hard to believe that the window dormers will be close
in cost to putting a full shed dormer! Is this really true! Also
does anyone have a ball-park figure for me. Remember I am only
interested in roof dormers and not a full shed dormer.
- Dino -
|
| 181.23 | They are sharp, I agree | GOBACK::FOX | | Tue Jul 03 1990 15:59 | 13 |
| I can't give you a ballpark figure, but I would expect them to be
*higher* than a shed dormer. Material between the two projects is
probably close (more interior mat. with a shed, maybe). The labor
putting in "A" dormers is tremendous. When I had my house built,
they were a very pricey option (and there was only 2 of them!).
I would not expect your job to be complicated to spec out. Anyone
who's done them knows what to expect. You should be able to get
figures from contractors w/o much effort. With the way things are
today, I'm sure they'll accomodate your desire to do some work
yourself.
John
|
| 181.24 | 3 for $3k | STAR::DZIEDZIC | | Tue Jul 03 1990 16:23 | 5 |
| The builder offered me 3 dormers for $3k (total) on a house
which I am having built. Obviously it is cheaper to build
them along with the rest of the house, but that may give you
a base from which to extrapolate. BTW, this didn't include
any interior finishing; it was only the shell.
|
| 181.25 | $800./per (Winter,1984) | BCSE::WEIER | | Tue Jul 03 1990 19:08 | 71 |
| Hi,
When we had our house built, roof dormers were an available option
- at $800./per, including the window. (1984 winter) At the time we
couldn't afford it, so we (ie. my husband) added them later. It took
forever to do - mostly because he only had time during the weekend, and
it rained every weekend. Our dormers are about 2 1/2 - 3 feet wide
inside, and makes a nice place for a bookcase or an easy chair, or (in
the kids room) a toy box.
I would imagine that yours will be a little more expensive because
of the height. Also, another point to keep in mind;
The whole summer we were working on the dormers, this guy kept walking
down the street and he'd always stop and tell us how stupid we were to
add the dormers because the roof/dormers would leak. When questioned
why he said that, he said that he's worked for several contractors that
installed dormers and he'd never seen/installed one that didn't leak.
Now we've had *NO* problem whatsoever with ours, but we were also
careful to make sure that there was enough flashing in appropriate
places. You might want to question potential contractors as to how
they feel about possible leakage.
You will probably want to ask the builder how they intend to add the
dormers. We pulled the shingles, took a recip. saw and cut 3 huge
holes in the roof (Yes, Dear, I trust you! _gulp_) Then it began to
rain. Some people frame the dormer first and THEN cut the hole, but it
was easier (and probably cheaper for a contractor) to work on (from
inside/upstairs) with the hole pre-cut. IF they do cut the hole first,
find out how they intend to prevent water from flooding in your house.
We covered the front (holes) with thick sheets of plastic, but still some
rain came in and there's a _SMALL_ water stain on the dining room ceiling.
Hopefully you won't have it so bad, but it's still a consideration. (You
remember that summer a few years ago that it rained EVERY weekend for
about 2 mos.? THAT was the year we added the dormers.)
And I have to agree the window dormers look a lot nicer than the shed
dormer.
As a final thought .... from your diagram, I would guess that there's a
stair well in the middle of the house? Which would probably mean that
the middle dormer will be an inaccessible window? We modified the
upstairs floor plan a bit so that there's just enough room to sit
under/in front of the middle dormer upstairs. Real cozy.
TOP View, looking down;
*=Dormer
* * *
--------====------------====----------------====--------
| |sit. area | |
| |______ | Bedroom |
| | |Hall| |
| Master |Stair|Way | |
| |Well | | |
| | | / |
| | | \ |
| Bedroom | | | |
| \ -----------------------
| / / |
| | \ |
| |----/\----| Bedroom |
| | | |
| | Bathroom | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
--------------------------------------------------------
Good luck!
Patty
|
| 181.26 | Mine was quoted $5K | KAYAK::GROSSO | | Thu Jul 05 1990 13:21 | 11 |
|
I got a quote on a gable window. I wanted a 7 foot wide roof gable window
installed in my attic. Its a two story house and a 12 pitch roof so its
high and steep. I asked for gable that would have shingle cheeks, (that is
it would have sides, not just the front exposed. The Palladian window alone
would cost ~$1200 and the cost of gable and window with roofing and exterior
finished, (I'd finish interior) was $5K. That was last November in southern
NH. I suspect they might be getting hungrier and maybe I should try a
smaller outfit but brace yourself for quote shock.
-Bob
|
| 181.27 | Dormers ? | ISLNDS::JANCAITIS | Que sera, sera | Tue Jul 02 1991 18:47 | 46 |
| As a new reader to this notes file (now that I'm a new [almost :-{]
home owner), I'm hoping someone can help or at least give me some
"pointers" to notes so I can avoid having to read ALL the notes
in here !!
I have done a "dir/keyword" but came up with nothing.
Looking for advice - currently in the process of acquiring a
small cape-code style home. Upstairs has two rooms, both with the
slanted ceilings because of the roof. Planning to put on a
FULL DORMER and have some basic questions ......
Does it matter which SIDE of the house the dormer is put on ?
How much work is it - Will I have to totally EMPTY the two
rooms ? If the work can be started
in August/September is it something
that can be done before the cold
weather hits ?
There are "built-in" drawers, desks in both of the rooms,
will they need to be pulled out to put the dormer in ? If so,
can it be done in such a way that they can be reinstalled if
that's wanted ?
When you've never had this kind of work done before, how
does one go about knowing what/who's needed ? In the past,
I would have gone to my dad, but he died last year and other
friends/relatives in the area haven't had any major work like
this done in recent years !!
Any recommendations on contractors - we live in Leominster, MA -
would MOST definitely be appreciated - you can send me mail
at ISLNDS::JANCAITIS. Also, just FYI, this is just the *beginning*
of changes I want to make to the house. Would really like to
find someone who can talk over total plans, let me know if I'm
out of my mind (:-}) and the best approach if I want to break
the work into stages.
Finally (for now), what don't I know enough to ask about yet ???????
Any and all help/pointers appreciated !!
Debbi Jancaitis
|
| 181.28 | | RGB::SEILER | Larry Seiler | Thu Jul 04 1991 20:09 | 18 |
| There are some notes on doing the sort of thing you describe -- look
in note 1111.1 for keywords relating to second story additions. I
concluded from reading those notes that most carpenters will want to
tear everything out to the floor in the rooms where they are raising
the roof. I think (hope) there are alternatives...
As for whether the side it's done on matters, if the the house is
structurally symmetrical, then it only matters for floor plan and
aesthetics -- which side do you want more room on and which side
gives you the better view.
As for time, my reading here and elsewhere suggests that new roof
can be put on and closed up in a matter of days once the work actually
starts. This would be the point I'd want to gte clearest with the
builder -- also who is liable if it rains while the roof is off.
Enjoy,
Larry
|
| 181.29 | Dormer methods | LJSRV2::ESPERTI | | Wed Feb 21 1996 16:02 | 47 |
|
I currently have a Cape with Gambrel style roof (I think). I am
thinking of adding a rear full shed dormer to it. I have yet
to get any estimates, but I have heard of two primary ways of
having it done.
One way is to tear out the old roof and build a new "raised" roof
to the appropriate heighth that is desired and the new wall,
windows, siding, etc. This means that the existing roofing
material is replaced and I have to pay for new materials.
The other way that I have heard of is to have the existing roof
raised and supported by the new outside wall and reattach it
to the peak. I have heard that contractors will use roofing
hinges and jacks to raise sections of the roof.
I would like mine to be a full shed dormer to get the maximum room.
If I can do this I would get one of length 40'. I
I am wondering if anyone knows if there is a great difference in
cost
in both methods. I am looking for a contractor to only to the shell
(including finishing the outside and I would do the inside my self
-
since they are only bedrooms.
I know I need to talk to different contractors, but I was just
wondering if anyone knows off hand of cost tradeoffs, structural
traders, etc. between both methods.
Maybe even rough cost guestimates :).
Thanks for any info,
Mike
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| 181.30 | ALWAYS expect rain... | PCBUOA::TARDIFF | Dave Tardiff | Thu Feb 22 1996 17:56 | 20 |
| A new roof will cost you more for materials - new rafters,
plywood, asphalt roofing. It'll also cost you more in disposal fees
(gotta throw out all the old stuff) and will leave the house roofless
for a bit longer - always risky in wintertime. Hint - make sure that any
contractor cutting holes in your roof is prepared to cover it all up
securely in 30 minutes or less AND is insured for possible damage - this
means having the necessary tarps beforehand, up on the roof, and partially
installed -just unroll 'em. If they send a guy to Home Depot when the
sky clouds up....you're in trouble.
A lifted roof will be faster, but will leave you with an older
roof structure and surface, which may not be suitable for the new slope
and/or span. It'll probably be cheaper, if the contractor knows what
they're doing and has the necessary jacks and stuff.
You can always price the raw materials yourself. Even a Home
Depot price on rafters, plywood, and shingles will give you a rough
estimate, and figure (roughly) 2 to 3 times the material cost for the
labor. Depending on the size of the opening, new might not cost that
much more.
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