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Conference 7.286::home_work

Title:Home_work
Notice:Check Directory (6.3) before writing a new note
Moderator:CSLALL::NASEAM::READIO
Created:Tue Nov 05 1991
Last Modified:Fri Jun 06 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:2100
Total number of notes:78741

1006.0. "Tools - Reconditioned" by DELNI::GRACE (Amazin' Grace) Wed Mar 02 1988 16:05

    I want to pick up some refurbished power tools at a Black and Decker
    store in the Allston?Brighton are. Anyone know where it is?
    Anyone know where other stores like this are?
    
    			Russ 
T.RTitleUserPersonal
Name
DateLines
1006.1black and decker in KitteryHPSTEK::PASCOMark 'PASCO' PascarelliWed Mar 02 1988 16:1010
    Black and Decker Outlet store in Kittery Maine. In the first set
    of stores after you get off the highway. Right across the street
    from the Corning Outlet.
    
    They have reconditioned, and also blemished items. This includes
    all power tools , workmates, vac's , toasters , etc.....
    they also carry items with no problems.....
    
    Pasco
    
1006.2Not Such A Great Deal!TRACTR::DOWNSThu Mar 03 1988 10:224
    I stopped into the B&D store in Kittery and wasn't impressed. The
    prices that I saw on reconditioned, blemished tools weren't a whole
    lot less then buy the 1st line tool on sale. Just my opinion!
    
1006.3MILT::JACKSONwho you jivin' with that cosmic debris?Thu Mar 03 1988 10:437
    The store in Brighton is just off Soldiers field road, almost next
    to the MDC police station.  If you're traveling East on SF road,
    take the exit just after Martignetti liquors and the store
    will be almost right in front of you.
    
    
    -bill
1006.4Thanks! How about Milwaukee tools?DELNI::GRACEAmazin' GraceThu Mar 03 1988 15:557
    Yup! That's the one! Now, if only they'd still have the older tools w/o the
    cheap plastic cases ... 
    
    After mentioning all of this to a friend, he suggested Milwaukee tools.
    Any opinions? 
    
    				Russ
1006.5Milwaukee = top of the lineHPSMEG::LUKOWSKII lost my A$$ in the '87 CRASH!Thu Mar 03 1988 18:2412
    Re: .4
    
      You were talking Black and Decker tools and your friend was talking
    Milwaukee? The two are by no means in the same league unless you
    are talking about Black and Decker's professional line of power
    tools.  In my opinion, Black and Decker's line still won't compare
    except for price.  There's mega-info on Milwaukee tools in the tools 
    (soon to be called Woorworking and Tools) notes file located on your 
    node (DELNI). If you can afford Milwaukee, by all means, go for it.  
    You won't regret it. Chances are, you will never need to replace it.   

    -Jim
1006.6I want my old Makita back !MILPND::STUARTWed Nov 04 1992 15:4817
    
    Not sure if this is a good place for this but........
    
    I have a Makita palm sander that is alittle over a year old and I
    use it constantly thus the brushes/magnates are worn down to the
    point they don't make contact. I took the sander apart (1st mistake)
    and confirmed the brushes were worn. Can these be replaced ??
    Where can you get them ?? Anyone between Maynard and Fitchburg
    repair these ??
    
    I've since purchased another sander but would like to repair the
    old one. I hate the new one ! It's the exact model as the other
    but the motor is much louder and it vibrates TOO much which
    makes it hard to control.
    
    Randy
    
1006.7Try the repair centersSALEM::PAGLIARULO_GReality is a cosmic hunchThu Nov 05 1992 10:3311
    Randy,
    
    	If you have the paperwork that came with the sander there should
    be a list of authorized service centers.  If not then the yellow pages 
    should list them.  You could buy the brushes from them.  If that isn't 
    convenient then I'd call around to a few hardware stores or tool sellers.  
    I don't know if brushes are 'universal' or if Makita would take a
    special type but they may have what you need.  Usually replacing the 
    brushes is no big deal.
    
    George
1006.8SHEPARD & PARKER has Brushes....BCVAXD::PILOTTEThu Nov 05 1992 11:2912
    Randy,
    
    	I had the same problem with my palm sander.  If your in the
    Fitchburg area you can get a new set of brushes from SHEPARD & PARKER
    INC.  They are located at 18 Lincoln St. phone 343-3907.  the part
    number for the brushes is 643057-4 Type CB-57. I think thye cost
    me something like 4 or 6 bucks.
    
    regards,
    		Mark
    
1006.9looking forward to my old sander !MILPND::STUARTTue Nov 10 1992 15:148
    
    
    Great !   thanks Mark
    
    I live in Ashby so thats no problem ....
    
    Randy
    
1006.10Hand tool repairs?IAMOK::CALCAGNIA.F.F.A.Fri Jul 16 1993 02:515
    Is there a place in the Milford MA area to have hand tools repaired?
    
    I have a B&D 3/8 drill and a Saws all that need reconditioning?
    
    Cal
1006.11How to replace the handle of an axe/maul/sledge hammerHYDRA::NEWMANChuck Newman, 508/467-5499 (DTN 297), MRO1-3/F26Tue Jan 28 1997 00:5113
I was playing fetch with my neighbors dog while splitting wood.  Tried to get 
off one last swing before he came back with the ball, and rushed it -- over 
swung and split the handle.

Picked up a replacement handle, which came with a wood wedge and a steel wedge.
Can I assume that (after I put on a Handle Saver) I put the head on the new 
handle, bang the wood wedge into the slot, then drive the stell wedge in next to 
it?

Are there any tricks (e.g., heat the head up first to it expands and goes on 
easier)?

							-- Chuck Newman
1006.12ASIC::RANDOLPHTom R. N1OOQTue Jan 28 1997 10:4920
The steel wedge goes in across the wood wedge, to expand the handle a bit
lengthwise as well as crosswise. Sort of like:

           __________________
         /        \\          \
        | =========\\========= |  <--- wood wedge
         \          \\        /
           ------------------
                     ^
                     |
                     +--- steel wedge
                     
Drive the wood wedge first. Put a block of wood on top, so that the hammer
doesn't split the wedge. Drive the crap out of it, cuz it's gonna have to
stand a lot of pounding when you use the axe. Cut off any remainder that's
still sticking out. Now drive the steel wedge.

DON'T heat the head. Heating anneals the metal, and makes the edge soft. I
have an old axe head that someone must have heated. The edge folds right over
like a piece of foil after the first couple of chops.