Conference 7.286::home_work

    There are probably more sophisticated methods, but I have found
    that plain water helps somewhat.  It softens up the masking tape
    enough for the blade to get started.  Also, water is safe on the
    wood and easy on the hands.
    
    Steve

    A touch of fingernail polish remover on a rag will take it right off.
    Don'tx touch the paint on the window with it though.  It might remove
    that also.
    

I am in a similar situation - I (removed ugly contact paper from a bunch of 
kitchen cabinets and shelves, and boy, are they sticky now.  If water 
fails, I am planning to use (odorless) paint thinner.  

I do believe lighter fluid will also work.  And - DEC uses a freon based
product (the name escapes me) that is used to remove adhesive, too, which
usually won't damage what is under the adhesive.

			-jim-

    
    After re-reading the base note, it isn't all that clear to me whether
    the problem is just the glue residue or the entire piece of tape.
    Another method I use to remove small sticky labels and tape is to
    put a hair dryer on it for 10-15 seconds.  This softens the glue
    enough to remove the tape or label without leaving any (or very
    little) residue.
    

    re .5: The problem is both the tape and the adhesive, but the adhesive
    is the bigger problem. I'll try the paint thinner and nail polish
    remover. Thanks.
    
       mitch

    
    Yep, I'd try lighter fluid.
    
    Lighter fluid has worked for me in removing those "stars" and residual
    glue people
    used to stick to the bottom of the bathtub (for traction).

        /steve
    
    

    This is a little late to help this time, but next time, wet some
    newspaper and stick it to the panes. You then use a razor blade
    to trim the paper to an exact fit, and paint away. When the paint
    has "set" somewhat, (not long, a few minutes maybe) you can peel the 
    newspaper right off. (Even if the paper has dried).
    dep.

    Another method, if you're still trying to remove the tape, is to
    use Goof-Off, which is a spray.  Or WD-40 advertises that its
    lubricant can also be used to take off gummy tapes without hurting
    the underlying surface.

Re .5, hair dryer:

Careful.  I know that heat guns aren't recommended for use on windows, 
since their heat can crack glass panes.  I don't know whether a hair dryer 
gets hot enough to do so...

    Years (5) ago I got a solvent from the tape librarian in PK1 where
    some of the corporate data centers are located.  This solvent is
    used to remove the dried up tape labels from magtapes.  I have used
    it to remove residual adhesive as well as things like labels from
    various surfaces with no damage.  My supply is running low and I
    don't know where to get more but they may have it in those data
    processing supplies catalogs.  The label on the jar says the product
    is TEXSOLVE and is from TEXWIPE.
    
    Marty
    

Marty,

    Look carefully -- I think you'll find that the contents are one of three 
things:

	1) Alcohol

	2) One of the "cleaning" fluids Trichloroetane, etc.

	3) Freon

The TV station I worked for years ago used to get freon in 5 gallon carboys 
for cleaning tape drives.  If it's not labelel you should be able to tell by 
smell -- #1 will smell like alcohol, #2 like cleaning fluid, #3 won't smell
at all (be careful).  Any/all of thease are readily available, though you 
might have to look around a bit for Freon (it's also the least likely).



			Andy Ostrom

    I've found that lighter fluid works well on most types of annoying
    tape adhesives. It's especially effective for removing stickers
    from plastic surfaces such as tape cassettes, floppy disk envelopes,
    etc. It won't harm the plastic.
    
    Dave Busch
    

    EMERGENCY! EMERGENCY! EMERGENCY!
    
    I contracted with a builder for a deck and specified (in writing)
    "Cox OutdoorWood(tm)".  Today he showed up with Weyerhauser LifeWood.
    I'm hoping to get some answers to determine whether I should tell
    him to cease and desist QUICKLY:
    
    Relative cost for the two
    
    Quality of the stock (premium, #1, #2, etc.)
    
    Any insight will be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
    
    Pete

    I would call a couple of lumber yards and ask them for information on
    the two. I built a deck with kiln-dried PTL, but could not tell you
    what the brand was. 
    
    I don't know where you are located. The yards I would call in the
    Boston/128 area are Reading Lumber in Reading, MA, Brewsters Lumber
    in Wilmington MA, Concord Lumber in Concord MA and Wilson's Lumber
    in Concord MA.
    
    Good Luck!
    VCS

	I would tell the builder to stop work because he delivered the
	wrong brand, and that you'll be glad to continue after you
	satisfy yourself his stuff is at least as good as what you
	specified.

	I haven't been to Violette in Lunenburg, Ma., but they have
	an impressive Yellow Page ad ("Industrial * Furniture * Cabinet *
	Veneer * ... Construction * Marine...").  They sound as if they
	have no excuse for ignorance.  617 - 582 6340.

	You could call Currier in Amherst, N.H. 603 673 1913.  They're
	nothing to brag about, but they're less wimpy than most others.

	You could call Weyerhauser and ask them why their lumber isn't
	as good as Cox's!  Give 'em something to think about.

	Regards, Robert.

    Thanks for the quick help - the outcome was
    
    1.  Cox has a 30-year guarantee and is available in #1 and #2
    OutdoorWood(tm) and premium DuraPine(tm).
    
    2.  Weyerhauser LifeWood(tm) is guaranteed "for life" and is also
    available in #1 or #2.
    
    3.  I got #2, which I probably would have gotten if the builder
    had bought Cox since I didn't specify #1, and the wood looks fine
    for a deck so I guess I made out this time.
    
    4.  I was leery about telling the builder to stop.  I don't want
    to do anything that will hold things up since it has taken us five
    months to get this guy on the job.  However, based on his willingness
    to ignore the contract details I'm going to check out my windows
    and doors carefully when they arrive to be sure they're glazed with
    high-performance glass!
    
    I made it very clear this morning that the builder had fouled up
    but that I will let it slide.  In my opinion, this is a "gimme"
    in my favor that I'll keep in my back pocket until I need it.
    
    Thanks again,
    Pete

    I really don't think "brand" is all that important. It's the
    grade that implies quality. After 90% completion of my 2 decks,
    I had to run out and grab some 2x4s. I got some #2 stuff that
    looked ok when I bought it but twisted quite a bit after it
    dried out. No good for railings like that! The only stuff I
    would use #2 on is the beams and joists, nothing that's visable.
    It's wise to stick with the same brand throughout though, your
    deck will "look" the same all over that way.
    John

    I need some suggestions on how to remove dried on masking tape.
    It is on my baseboards, which are metal, and I don't want to 
    scrape it off unless that's the only recourse. I looked thru note
    1111, and couldn't find anything, any help out there would be
    appreciated.
    
    ooooopppppsssss !!!
    
    Dick
    
    
    

    There is a product called ?? "goof-off" or some such.  Never tried
    it on something like this.
    
    Best solution I've found is to scrape as much as I could with a
    fingernail or something that is not going to mar the surface credit
    card maybe??  Then apply peanut butter.  Rub it in, let it set,
    and scrape some more.
    
    Never tried it myself but my wife just raves about "Simple Green"
    on anything she's ever tried it on.

    Nail polish remover works just fine.   But make sure that the paint
    underneath can handle the nail polish remover.
    
    
    -bill

     You could try rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits.  I don't believe
    either of these would or could harm the paint if you just rub the
    tape with them. If you try to 'soak' the tape, then the mineral
    spirits might get absorbed by the paint over time. 

    I agree...use nail polish remover, but check to see it's the non-oily
    variety (no cuticle oil in it.) This stuff is basically acetone
    and dissolves lots of stuff, including permanent felt tip marker.
    But it dissolves some finishes equally well.  I just cleaned some
    tape residue off finished maple (don't ask!) and had to touch up
    the missing varnish afterwards... but that was preferable to the
    stickum!  (Oily remover leaves stains.)

    
    It turns out that the PVC/CPVC pipe cleaner I bought is just 
    acetone (the smell is distinctive).
    
    

since the masking tape glue is probably water soluable.  I would try 
water - or maybe something like formula 409.  Soak it thoroughly and 
wait a bit.

I would stay away from oil-based solvents (acetone, mineral spirits,
name polish remover) as I doubt any paint is really resistant to them.

    I'd go with alcohol.  As long as the finish isn't shellac, the alcohol
    won't hurt it.  Mineral spirits should be okay too.  It shouldn't
    hurt the underlying finish.  I doubt that plain water, even with
    a detergent in it, will do much.  I would worry about acetone a
    LOT.  Acetone dissolves all kinds  of things.  But it might be okay,
    and I'm sure it would take care of the masking tape.
    
    With anything you use, try it in an inconspicuous place first to
    see what happens.  That's the only way to know for sure, in any
    specific situation.

    3M Adhesive Remover will probably do the trick.  I know you can
    get the stuff at an Automobile Body Shop & Equipment supply place.
    The stuff does not smell as bad as acetone.

	Don't laugh  as  you read this...I'm serious.  Try Avon's Skin So
	Soft.  I  thought it was a joke when I read a flyer with about 50
	things that it will do for you.  Personally, I can attest to it's
	effectiveness on:
			repelling mosquitos, ants, etc
			lubricating sliding screen doors
			removing sticky label 'goo'
			softening skin
	
	Spray or goop it on  and  let  it  set...    the smell is a touch
	aromatic, but certainly not as offensive as lacquer thinner...
	
	Chris

	I was wondering whether anyone has had any experience with the
	quality of PT wood from Builder's Square or Somerville Lumber.
	
	In this weeks set of sale ads,  Somerville is about $2 HIGHER than
	Builder's square for things like 4x4x10 and 2x6x10's.  I was up
	wandering through the iles of Builder's Square last night and while
	most of the PT lumber looked fine,  there were some really lousy
	pieces mixed in the piles.  I'm afraid that if I just have them
	delivery some ( instead of picking it out by hand ),  I'll end
	up with the good and the bad stuff.
	
	Comments?
	
	Garry

    	Some places, Belltette's in Winchendon in particular, let you sort
    through the lumber, and they deleiver what you picked out. Although I 
    doubt that BS or Somerville will do this for you. Its worth asking.
    
    	Cary
    

    I have had Somerville deliver PT wood a few times (things like 16 foot
    decking and long 4x6s).  Out of 70-80 total pieces, I ended up
    rejecting one decking board.  They seem to do a very good job of
    selecting good stuff.
    
    I have also had great success with Concord/Littleton Lumber.  They have
    never delivered a piece that I wanted to reject.  Their prices are
    generally better than Somerville's also.  
    
    Bob

    Eucalyptus oil is a good solvent for many of the adhesives used on
    tapes - and is especially good at getting off the adhesive left after
    removing the price labels on things.
    
    Its always a good idea to try it somewhere inconspicuous first, just to
    be sure, but on short contact doesn't bother painted, varnished or
    plastic surfaces.
    
    Its other great advantage is that it smells like a gum tree forest (and
    is guaranteed to make expat Aussies homesick!).
    
    regards,
    Michael Watts.

     I've used mayonnaise to remove masking tape adhesive.  It works well.

    mayonnaise=oil
    
    oil stops the adhesive from sticking
    
    
    buzz

    also try peanut butter,  baby oil, or lighter fluid ( careful)

    Or how about the infamous Skin-So-Soft from Avon? Worked like a charm
    for me when I had to remove some old masking tape. And it doesn't smell
    bad either!

    just had to throw this in...
    
    re -1  And believe it or not that Skin-So-Soft from Avon keeps the bugs
           away better than any product from "OFF".
    
    Steve

I recently saw an article saying that the Skin-So-Soft rumor is something
that the Avon folks love to have you believe, in spite of a total lack
of scientific evidence to support it.  I think it also said that S-S-S, if
it works at all, last for about half an hour, while DEET products last
several hours.

   Gary

Avon discreetly makes no claims about repelling insects.  If they did, they'd
have to go through federal regulation/harassment.

On the other hand, why should they?  S-S-S sales are something like 60 per cent
of all Avon sales.

    That's all you could smell at my town's 4th of July fireworks. I know,
    I HATE the smell!

    Getting back to the original question of removing dried tape.  I have
    used a product called "Goo-Gone" with good results.  My wife originally
    found it at Kitchen Etc. but I've seen it in other stores recently.  I
    don't know what's in it exactly, but I've used it to remove everything
    from the obnoxious little sticky labels that the stores put on
    merchandise these days to old weathered decals on the plane.  In all
    cases, I did not have any damage to the surface that it was on, but
    then as they say "your mileage may vary", and the stuff came off with
    very little effort.  
    
    	Ken

Try WD-40....yes, the can of spray lubricant.  My brother says it works 
wonders on most surfaces.  May need to use a cleanser to remove the `oil'
after removing the tape.

    Im looking for 1 2x3x8 PT stud.
    
    I cant find any instock or a lumer yard that will rip pt.
    
    Any suggestions? this is for nashua--boston area
                            	
    				-Brian
    				

>>    I cant find any instock or a lumer yard that will rip pt.

Did they say "we don't don that" or "we don't do that for PT lumber" ?

Brian J. - (wondering if there is a good reason beind not ripping PT lumber!)

    Saw dust from the PT is potentially harmful and hazardous.  I can see
    why they would refuse to rip a piece down.  
    
    Brian

    Nobody has told me its a health hazard a a reason why they wont rip.
    they tell me its because the wood it so wet it will bind the saw
    look like crap.
    
    I guess I might have to use cedar.
    

    .last few:
    
    Common instructions are to use some sort of face mask when cutting PT,
    to keep the dust out of your lungs, and never burn any of it.  I guess
    it has something to do with the preservative, which happens to contain
    arsenic.
    
    The wetness doesn't encourage them, either.
    
    Dick

    
    Wet wood doesn't throw much dust and the cutting table at HD in Nashua
    has a dust extraction filter.  Perhaps they would do one for you?  
    
    Just curious, but if you only need one stud, why don't you rip it down
    yourself.  I ripped some 2x6x8 this weekend using a B&D "Pirhana" blade
    (meant for wet PTL) and a rip fence on a circular saw.  Worked out
    fine and didn't bind.
    
    Colin
      
    

While building a retaining wall this weekend, I cross-cut a number
of 6x6x8 pieces of .40 CCA PT this weekend with my Ryobi homeowner's
circular saw. No special blade, no binding, no problem. 

Tom 

    .-2: HD and HQ both specifically state that they won't do any rip cuts.
    (to anything, not just PT lumber).
    
    ed

    I think you need to go to an old-fashioned real lumberyard, not one of
    the chain places, that will custom-cut lumber for you.  There are a
    couple of them where I live (near HLO, in Hudson, Mass.), probably some
    near where you are also.  I had all the stringers and decking boards cut
    to size when I rebuilt the back steps, which saved me lots of time, and
    they didn't make any complaints about cutting up the PT lumber.  This
    probably cost me more, but it sure made the job go quicker.  Plus, the
    local places are nice people to deal with.  For example, if you need a
    real small piece of lumber tha tyou don't have in your own scrap wood
    pile, they will just give it to you out of their scrap - I got a bunch
    of 1/4" plywood to finish up some work I was doing.  I usually use
    Larkin Lumber, in Hudson.  You need to call around...
    
    /Charlotte

    re: .16
    
    Yes!!!  Larkin Lumber in Hudson, Coldwell's in Berlin, etc.

>>    .-2: HD and HQ both specifically state that they won't do any rip cuts.
>>    (to anything, not just PT lumber).

That was more the answer I was looking for.  (not an excuse because of the PT
lumber).

bjm

    
    Thanks, found a yard in Woburn MA, Barker Lumber.
    $1 to rip the 2x4 pt to a 2x3.