Conference 7.286::home_work

    Did you try calling Rivco in Nashua?  They deal with at
    least 2 or 3 brands of sliding doors and might be able
    to tell you what that means.
    But I would bet that the writing had more to do with the
    specifications of the panel than with the name of the
    manufacturer.
    

    	I had a similar problem, but I believe the warrantee is only
    5 yrs for the insulated sandwich.  The date of mfg was found around
    the edge in between the two pieces of glass.  Fortunately it was
    just under 5 yrs.  So the guy goes way into the backroom and brings
    out this dusty old glass unit, no frame!!  And I said wait a minute,
    where's the frame??  and he says, oh you don't get a frame, just
    the sandwich!  And he said (BTW) it aint no easy job to put this
    in.  The bottom line is that most doors have a std size sandwich
    and putting in wasn't that bad after all.  Good luck!!
    
    
    

        The double-paned slider in my house has fogged up inside. Don't
have any idea when it was installed - though this section is newer than
the rest of the 20-yr old house.

Anyone know what sort of guarantee comes with these sliding glass doors?

Do I replace just the glass insert or the entire (metal-framed) sliding
section?

Also, I am adding a 5 foot (wooden) glass sliding door - why are they
so much more expensive than the 6-ft versions? Anyone know of (relatively)
less expensive brands/makes/outlets for the same?

Thanks in advance for yr. comments.

    	Most are guaranteed for 5 yrs, and that is just the sandwich,
    I had two fail (loose the seal) there's a date stamped on the inside
    of the sandwich, if its less than 5 Yrs and you can determine the
    make, you can go back to the lumber yard, etc. and talk to them.
    	Its a little tricky to take apart and install a new sandwich
    but not impossible (I did two).  In retrospect, I think my woodstove
    was located too close to the sliding doors ( I have since moved
    it)  Well good luck.  BTW, the sandwich's are all standard size,
    so that almost any make will fit!!
    
    
    

    Contact Window Wizzards in Pennsylvania.
    
    Phone   1-800-523-8707
    
    I ordered my 6 ft. Andersen slider from them with screen for $544.92.

	Hi, fellow noters. It's me again. Now I have a new problem.
    It seems like a few days ago someone tried to break into our house
    by forcing the sliding door (wooden) with a screw driver (definitely
    not a pro). Now we have these ugly marks on the frame of the sliding
    door and the plate where it latches was pried off. The glass panes
    were not broken. My question is, where do I go for an estimate of
    repair costs? I need to file it with the insurance company and the
    only thing I can think of is looking in the Yellow Pages under "sliding
    doors". We live in Charlton, Mass., so some place in the Worcester
    area would be great. Any ideas?
    
    Thanks,
    Sal

Try 'modern manufacturing' in worcester - ask for zack (owner's son) - 
large selection of doors, sliding doors, windows, etc - reasonable 
prices- the type of place that installers use, rather than a retail 
place like slumberville lumber    	

    What type of sliding door was it?? Who is the manufacturer? Do you
    need to replace the whloe door , just the frame and latch, how
    extensive? I may be able to give you some references to places to
    purchase parts or the whole door at a savings, but depends on the
    manufacturer. Do you need a labor and materials estimate or just
    materials?? I could send you an estimate if you give me enough
    information! Send me mail with the appropriate info and I will get
    back to you!
    
    John

    no, no, no - get the estimate from some "full service" installer,
    in fact it might be a good idea to get a couple.  After the claim
    is filed is the time to call Zack or check this file for diy economy...

    What .4 suggests sounds good, but so far I haven't found a carpenter,
    woodworking shop or door/window manufacturer willing to even look
    at it. They are too busy with bigger jobs and making new doors and
    windows. I just got from the builder the name of the company he
    bought it from and they are from out of state. Chances are they will not 
    be interested in traveling to Mass. to give me an estimate. I'll sure 
    give it a try, though.

    Check your deductible.  It may turn out that you'll get nothing
    from the insurance company.  If the scratches are to be filled and
    a new plate put on (couple $??), I can't see it being that much.
    
    Most carpenters have a certain amount of fixed costs whether they
    do a small job or large job.  They'll end up charging you a fortune
    because the job's a hassle.  The insurance company might just turn
    around and reject the estimate as too high.
    
    You can't win!
    
    C

    I know the repair may not reach the $100 deductible, but if they
    try to break in again and I haven't reported the repair cost for
    the first attempt, I could end up with a $200 cost not covered by
    insurance. And being in such an isolated area, it is very likely
    they will try again in the near future.

    We've recently moved to a new residence and I had a glass door
    from a few years back that I brought and installed. Only one 
    small problem...the hardware hook for the latch & bracket for
    the fixed door were missing. Apparently got lost in the shuffle.
    
    My situation...does anyone carry a line of glass door hardware
    that you've seen. Good ole' Grossmans I thought would, but like
    usual, they don't carry parts for their own line of items.
    
    Thanks for any info on where to get the parts...
    
    					Happy Open Door Policy, gfc
    

Modern Manufacturing, In Worcester, is the best place ive found for 
window and door hardware (also repair screens, etc) quite reasonable

    if all else fails...try writing the manufacture. I've had excellent
    experiences in the past going this route.
    
    MArk

    usually the ductable is per incident,

    I have some sliding glass doors that are about 12 years old.
    One of the doors is the back door of the house and gets much
    more use than was originally intended.  Anyway, the track
    for the door has worn down in places and it moves side to 
    side enough, so that I have to lift it back on the track or 
    whats left of it.  The brand of door is JASCO and I have called
    some local places to see about parts.... everyone says buy a
    new door.  Also I think the nylon? rollers for the door itself
    have worn down.  IS this repairable or do I need a new unit.
    
    Saul
    

    I have 3 sliding glass doors and I've replaced the thermopane in
    one of them.  I asked if it's possible to do what you want to do
    - replace just the frame and not the glass also (the glass is standard
    size so when they replace the glass, the frame is reused).  I was
    told that the window frame is only sold with the glass.  Maybe you
    can find someone who will sell just the frame.
    
    If I could I would replace the frames and track and reuse the glass.
    The track that I have is all aluminum so it conducts heat which
    sweats and freezes in the winter.  They now make tracks that are
    insulated - they have a thermal break between the inside and outside.

    2 cents worth:
    
    Heed the underlying observation in prev. note regarding metal sliders.
    The metal sweats and conducts heat.  If you're looking into new 
    sliders (or french doors), go with wood.
                                                         
    Our contractor won't do metal unless you insist.
    
    						Don (who has wooden
                                                    sliders & a french
                                                    door)
                
    

	I looked through the directory and subdirectory and did a
	dir/tit=slid and found a couple of notes so I thought I'd
	just append on another reply to this note (hopfully someone
	will see it) rather than making a new note since this notes file
	is pretty lengthy already.

	Not being a "handy-dan" type, I thought I'd ask you folks on
	some things about my slider.

	First, I think that it was put it wrong (about 10 years ago).
	The screen portion is on the inside and the glass door is on
	the outside.  Looks to me as if they put the frame backwards
	(I don't care if it slides left to right or vice versa - is
	there a correct way to slide?)  Anyway, is the frame on wrong?
	Is there a way to fix it so that the glass door is on the
	inside?  Do I have to redo the entire frame?  Is it hard?
	How much would it cost to get someone who knew what they
	were doing (looking for a ballpark figure - under $100,
	near $500, near $1500, new mortage, etc.)?  Any reccomendations?

	Second, my screen is all messed up.  I knocked into it when
	it was closed and bent the bottom frame.  The bottom seems to
	be such that it bends out (maybe for insertion of screen into
	runners?).  Anyway, it won't bend back vertical and so the screen
	keeps popping out.  I think that I can just replace the screen.
	Right?  About how much?  Place to get a replacement in S. NH.,
	N. Mass?

	Thanks, folks.  This notes file is *really* helpful, but rather
	windy (not unlike this note).  
    
    					Pete

    All the sliding doors I've ever seen have the latch on the inside
    only, so you can't open it from the outside if it isn't unlatched.
    Where's your latch?
    
    Maybe the doors are simply placed on the wrong tracks.
    
    Having the screen on the inside sounds wrong.  Maybe it was added
    after the door was already in.
    
    My screen door gets knocked off at least once a year (I ought to
    stop serving beer at my parties).  If the frame gets bent, I just
    bend it back by hand.  To put it back on, I have to loosen the screws
    that move the bottom wheels, press the wheels in, put the door back
    on the track, and tighten the wheels again.  Take's 10 minutes and
    a phillips screw driver.  When you say it won't bend back...how
    hard have you tried?  Get a bigger hammer.
    
    I'm afraid I can't help you on prices and places to buy.  I've never
    had to buy one.
    
    Steve

    re :.-1
    
    - latches are on the inside
    
    - door and screen tracks are not interchangeable
    
    - once I bend the screen back, it pops back out.  I used a *real
      big* hammer.
    

      In the past year I have installed Pella sliders which have the
    screen on the inside, and Andersen sliders which have the screen
    on the outside. I doubt if your frame was installed backwards. As
    far as the screen goes; you can buy generic replacement screens
    for sliders at various home centers. My father just got some for
    his 20 year old sliders and they fit ok.
                      
    					Kenny
    
    ps. There's no way you can get away with turning the frame around,
    	it's made so water will drain to the outside and the tracks
    	are dedicated.
                                             

In my rush to replace an aluminum slider that was causing water 
damage from condensation I think I have made a bad decision.
I purchased a WeatherShield replacement slider based on the input
from Eastcoast lumber.  The application is restricted to 
the original 5foot dimension and must be a slider due to the 
location and space restrictions.  Anyway, I was told that 
Andersen did not make a 5foot replacement size and they suggested
the WeatherShield as the best of the limited available options.

I should have looked around more but thought the WeatherShield 
name was good and just went for it.  Well, after putting it in 
this weekend I am very disappointed.  I was very careful to make 
sure everything is plumb and level but the slider still slides 
under significant friction and tries to ride up into a cocked 
position if not pushed directly in the center of the handle.  
Yes, I have tried to make adjustments which only seem to make it
slide worse. The biggest complaint I have is that it takes a
gorilla to open the door once it is shut.  I know you want it to
seal well but this is ridiculous.  It seals so tight I need two
hands and lots of effort to break the seal.  I really don't think
its the installation but that the track is so tight that it 
binds.  The width of the track does not appear adjustable.

I am at the point where I wish I could just return the slider and
get a different make.  I doubt the supplier will agree thou.  
Anyway I guess I'll call WeatherShield and see if they will look
at the door and see if it's my installation (which I doubt) or
is defective material.  Personally I think it's just a lousy door 
which for the money really depresses me.  

Bye the way. Whats the difference between a replacement size 
slider and new construction?  I had to remove the old unit 
completely down to the rough opening and remove siding to install
the flashing on the sides so it doesn't sound like it's any 
different installing this slider than it would be to install on 
new construction.
-JFK-

    RE: -1, Anderson does make a 5' slider (I installed it in my previous
    house), but it does have to be special ordered and is quite expensive
    (at least with High-E glass).
    
    Eric

    I had a poarch enclosed about 2 years ago with 6 glass double-paned
    sliders. got home last night and found the outside pane on one door
    with a zillion cracks in it, like you see on cars when it gets too
    hot inside. What I am asking is
    -do you think it just got too hot inside?
    -Is there any warranty on those things?
    
    I called the contractor that build it but he has not returned my
    call yet. I know where he bought the sliders because I picked them
    out. The birds sometime dive bomb into them and die but I saw none
    around and it does not look like someone shot it out.
    
    Any help will be appreciated.

    From my experience, sliding glass doors are usually guaranteed against
    breakage for five to seven years.
    
    You'll probably have to get the manufacturer's name and model number
    from the door....it's engraved in very small letters around the edge 
    of thedoor.
    
    From that data, they can determine how long your guarantee is.
    
    Ken

    Same thing happened to one of my sliders.  It turned out to be the
    metal frame was dented in one place and had stressed the glass at
    the edge.  The thermopane sliding glass doors are made of tempered
    glass, which can take shocks broadside (that birdie did nothing)
    quite well, but are fragile to shocks at the edges.  Mine had lasted
    for years and during the summer I guess the expansion was too much
    and the glass finally gave.
    
    Peter

    The contractor called last night and he will call the lumber yard
    that he deals with and they will notify the manufacturer, they are
    warrantied for years (?). He told not to hold my breath before they
    come out to look at it to make sure no one shot it out or anything.
    And they will determine if they will pay for the repairs, he suggested
    I would do better to put it in my home ins. I have a high deductable
    and do not know how much a job like that will cost,they are 6' doors.
    
    I plan to have Christmas eve out there and was wondering if anyone
    knows if I can take home some of this nice masking tape and tape
    it until someone comes out and looks at it, I'm afraid every time
    I shut the atrium door leading to the room it will all come falling
    down. It is on the outside pane. Any suggestions?
    
    Thanks.

    If they're going to come look at it your best bet would be to tape a
    single sheet of heavy clear plastic to the frame. If you tape to the
    window you might create a questionable situation (pull a small glass
    chunk out) and invalidate their findings. With clear plastic you get
    the protection, insulation, sunlight, and they can see without even 
    removing it. Did they say anything about replacing it and having them
    reimburse you if it was proven faulty? You could get the job done and
    set the old panel aside for when they finally get there.

    Why not install a shrink-wrap storm window over the whole shebang
    (technical term)?  This would still allow light, provide insulation,
    and protect against a pile of broken glass inside just in case it
    does decide to come apart.
    
    pbm
    

    I built my Chalet about 12 years ago and have two six foot sliders
    opening out to a front deck. Over the years the snow build up ect
    has destroyed the screens and the ice build up causes condensation
    and iceing in the inside of the doors. 
    I remember looking at storm sliders that fit over the outside of
    the sliders and screw into the moulding. They also offer protection
    in the winter for the screens. 
    
    Has anyone used storm sliders??? Where can I get them and how much
    do they cost now????? Help!

    I have a set of 6' sliders like you described with some storm sliders
    installed.  Both sides of the storm sliders move with the right
    panel being kept in place with a screw and bracket at the top and
    bottom of the slider.  The storm sliders mount in the same track
    as the regular sliders.
    
    These sliders do prevent condensation(sp) and keep the track from
    freezing up in the winter.  Sorry I have no idea about prices.

    I installed a storm slider last year to help with a leaky slider
    problem. I think I paid around $100. You may have to build up a
    wood frame to anchor it to, depending on your existing door structure.
    
    It does and excellent job of stopping the airflow from the outside.
    I get some condensation on the inside of the storm since the warm
    moisture laden inside air is leaking into the space. Overall it's
    been a solid winner. 

    In responce to .2 where did you purchase your slider??? I live in
    Nashua and have truck will travel.

    I got my storm slider at Grossmans in Billerica, MA. I think the
    list price was about $125 and the sale price around $100. They use
    to put them up for sale in the weekly brochure fairly often.  

    I looked under headers, framing, construction and sliders and found
    nothing near an answer to my question.
    
    When installing sliders into a gable-end wall do you need to reinforce
    the wall while the studs are cut?  The sliders are 6 ft. wide and the
    walls are standard framing, not post and beam.  I was told that if the
    wall studs are cut for only a short period of time before the header is
    installed that the walls and ceilings won't crack.
     
     Is this true?
    
    Mark

    Why chance it?  Built a support for the ceilings using 4 2x4's. Lay one
    on the floor, 4 inch side down.  Stand two on end with the bottom ends
    on the one on the floor.  Put the 4th one on top of the upright ones
    between the uprights and the ceiling. 
    
    Since the 2x4's are 8ft. long and the distance between the ceiling is
    <8ft because of the bottom and top boards, you will need to form an
    inverted V shape with the uprights.  As you tap the uprights towards
    plumb, they will exert pressure on the ceiling and relieve the load
    from the wall.  Once the uprights have relieved the pressure but not
    yet made a dent in the ceiling, place a nail on either side of the
    uprights so that they don't slip out of place. 
    
    Cut your hole in the wall and install the header and cripple studs.
    When the wall is framed, remove your homemade jack and support system.
    This way you know your ceiling will not crack, sag or fall while you
    are remodeling. 
   
    ........................   	Ceiling
    _______+_+____+_+_______	Top 2x4,  + are nails in board to prevent
           /        \				slipping
          /          \
         /            \		Upright 2x4's
        /              \
       /                \
    -+-+----------------+-+--	Bottom 2x4   
    =========================	Flooring
    

    .-1 is good advice in general but is gross overkill for a gable
    wall.   If the house is conventionally built there is very little
    roof load on the gable end walls.   Only caveat would be if the
    room in question has a cathedral ceiling in which case the HORIZONTAL
    framing members are acting as collar ties to keep the roof load
    from pushing the non-gable walls out.  But you wouldn't be cutting
    those in any case to put in a ground level slider, door, or windows.
     

    	Thermo-pane sliding doors, I have one panel of a 6' slider that
    is fogging up, this means that the "sandwich" has lost its seal.
    	I know that the sandwich can be replaced w/another.  The question
    is where can I buy just the sandwich, or does anybody out there
    know where I can find a used one??  (I believe they are a std size)
                  

  We are having a similar problem with a 14x48 window pane and we've
  ordered a replacement "module" from our local glass company.

  Doors, on the other hand, must be tempered glass these days.  That
  means that field-fabrication isn't possible.  But the answer still
  lies with your local glass vendor.

                                   Atlant

    Thanks for the help.  I used the inverted "A" and it worked great.
    .2 was right.  When I removed the sheetrock from around the window
    that was to be replaced by the sliders the header was floating.  I 
    mean there was no force down on it at all.  I used two 2X12's and
    this ceiling is going noware.
    Thanks again.
    
    Mark

    I guess this belongs here.... My friend down the street has built a
    sun room off of his living room. This room has openings for 5
    sliding glass doors... (I think he nuts). Where is the best and
    cheapest place to buy 5 sets of sliding glass doors? The best price he
    has gotten so far is from a place called Maki's.. In Lunenburg, Mass.
    About $250.00 per door...
    
    Rick

    Best and cheapest are diametricly opposed when referencing Building
    material.
    
    :*)

    Since Hurricane Bob, I have not been able to fully open my sliding
    door.  It opens half way and I thought it must have swelled. Does 
    anyone have a solution as how to recitfy this?  
    
    Loraine
    223-3606

    Is it a wooden door ?  I had the same problem with alot of my windows
    after the Hurricane.  They are just now starting to 'un-swell'.
    
    

    Yes, it is a wooden door. The other door which is on the same wall in
    another room is fine.  Apparently this slider took the brunt of the
    storm.  Hasn't "un-swelled" yet, but your note is encouraging.
    
    Loraine

    My front door (wooden) swelled up also - that side of the house took
    most of the wind during the first part of the storm (before the eye
    went past and the wind shifted around), and apparently a lot of water
    was driven into the edges of the door.  I tightened up the hinge bolts,
    but the door is still hard to close.  It has gotten better over the
    last couple of days, so I guess it is finally drying out.  I thought
    the edges of the door were sealed reasonably well, but conditions were
    pretty bad during the stomr, and since we are in a very exposed
    location on the top of a hill, there is nothing to break the wind on
    the front of the house (or deflect the horizontal downpour).
    
    Some day I am going to replace that door with a steel one.
    
    /Charlotte

    I have a problem with my wood sliding glass door...Now that the cold 
    weather is back, I seem to have a draft coming in from my door. It 
    is in the location were the 2 doors meet Stationary and slider.
    It has an interlocking weatherstripping that runs the entire length
    of both doors. The weatherstripping looks to be in good shape however.
    Is there any type of additional weatherstripping I can use ? Something
    like a door sweep maybe ? I really don't want to put up a metal storm
    sliding door in front of it... But I would like to eliminate this
    nasty draft!
    
    Also..I've tried adjusting the door..but I didn't make much progress
    as far as eliminating the draft.
    
    Any Suggestions??
    
                                                      Thanks,
                                                       Steve 
    

	The directory at note 1111.* led to note 2757.

    I plan to add a 3 season porch to the south side of my house. I was
    looking to put either a Anderson sliding French door or an Anderson
    hinged French door.
    
    Several people have told me they would never use a slider again, but
    they have those metal sliders that contractors usualy throw in.
    
    Would like some opinions from anyone who has sliders especially the
    Anderson brand.
    
    thanks,
    Ed

    
    Ed,
    
       I put in an Andersen Frenchwood Slider 3 years ago. Nice door,
    bought it on sale at HQ for about $750. My only minor nit is the
    door just doesn't open as far as our old "cheapo" aluminum door
    due to a stop (which I believe protects that fancy handle). Yes, 
    I'd buy another...I liked the hinged doors but didn't have the space
    to swing it.
    
    /Charlie
                

    Charlie,
       I have heard so much about the cheaper sliders leaking when it is
    windy I was wondering how the better sliders were. I take it you get no
    air or water leaking in with high winds?
    
    thanks,
      Ed

    
    
    
    RE: .2
    
       Ed,
    
       Leaking has never been a problem for me...Proper installation
    (flashing and caulking) are a must!!!
    
    /Charlie

Check the air infiltration claims of the manufacturer.  I've seen differences
of a factor of 10 between brands.

			Steve

    I was at Home Depot this week and they had Anderson and Crestline. They
    both look alike. Anyone hear of Crestline? It was about $100.00 less.
    Thanks for all you input.
    
    Ed

    I have use Crestline wood (primed ext.) sliding doors. When I bought
    them (3 yrs ago) there was more like a $300 savings over Anderson.
    The major difference being that Crestline (at least the model I bought) 
    was not pre-assembled0. You had to assemble the frame before
    installing. Not a difficult job and the Crestline door is great. No
    air infiltration.....and slights nice and smooth. The screen is another
    story but this seems to be a common weakness in most sliders.
    
    Another "knock-down" slider is KSI which seems to be about on par
    with Crestline.

HQ sells a M-W brand which has a nice-looking wood slider.  One thing I liked
about it was that the track was low and was of a sort that would be less
inclined to build up dirt.  I'm also looking into Pozzi which claims to have
a true divided-light insulated glass slider (only one I've seen so far).

				Steve

    Re: .7 - I have 2 KSI sliders (one 6', the other 5') and both are now
    approaching 8 years old. Great! I even like thier screen doors - didn't
    have a problem until one got walked through by mistake, then a simple
    15$ repair at the local lumber yard and it's like new again!
    
    No breezes thru these puppies!

    Thanks for all the input. I am going back to Home Depot and check out
    the opening on the slider to see how much room there is when it is open
    all the way. I didn't even think about the door handle causing the door
    to have a stop!!!!
                                                                  
    Ed

    I have both kinds of doors. I had to put a slider in my porch
    for lack of swing-in room. I have a hinged french door going out
    to a deck. I like the french door better even though the slider
    is a good one. I think it seals better and looks better. Also using 
    a slider for a main entrance or high traffic area (like I had to do)
    really "beats" them. They have more parts that can break.
    
    my 2 cents
    /BD     

We're putting in a sliding door for access to my porch (from the kitchen) and
we've selected the "Pella Pro-Line" model.  It seems to be built better than
any other comparably-priced door we've seen (and it's cheaper than many,
including Andersen).  It has by far the smoothest and easiest opening action
I've ever encountered.  What I like even better is that the threshhold is
low and has a wood insert so it doesn't trap dirt.  Home Depot sells it.

				Steve

    We had a contractor tell us we may prefer a swing French door as
    apposed to a slider if the door is going to be a main entrance for ease
    of operation when your arms are full. So, we are getting the swinger.
    
    I may check out the Pella swinging French door too. I like the
    Anderson, but if the Pella unit has as good a quality as the Anderson
    for less cost I may go for it.
    
    thanks,

    
    Never liked the slider for a "high traffic" point.  
    Seems in you have pass thur a few times in  ssllliiiiddeeee it
    open...sliiidddeeee in closed...  and you tend to here the
    zzssshhhus, bang of the door...   With the F-door its
    click, thump.  Kind of an open/shut case!
    
    JD

I agree - for a high-traffic path, a slider can be a pain.  But a swinging
door requires more clear floor space which can be a different pain.  Neither
is right for everyone.

					Steve

    Hummmmmm.......If you have that much junk in the room you cant
    open a door...maybe a garage door might be better!!..:)
    
    JD

>    Hummmmmm.......If you have that much junk in the room you cant
>    open a door...maybe a garage door might be better!!..:)

	I realize you're joking, but thought I'd mention that we have a
	perfect example of where a french door wouldn't work but a slider
	does. The dining area in our house is about 8' x 11'. Leaving enough
	room for a french door to open would not give enough room for any
	sort of dining room table at all (and finding one narrow enough to
	fit is difficult as it is!).

	Roy

    
 RE: .17
    
    >>>The dining area in our house is about 8' x 11'. Leaving enough
    >>>room for a french door to open would not give enough room for
    >>>any sort of dining room table at all.
    
    No doubt a common problem, as this is the *exact* reason I mentioned
    in reply .1 that I "didn't have the space to swing it." I loved the
    French hinged doors but we prefer to use our dining room too... :^)
    
    /Charlie
    
    P.S. I'd hate to be the guy that just installed a French hinged door
         and has to break the news to the wife, "Uh, honey...You wouldn't
         mind if we traded your Grandmothers 10' long table for a new 
         3' round table so we can open the new door, would you dear?
         Yikes...

    
    
    Chainsaw and a new, heavy table cloth.  The never notice! :)
    
    "GGGeeee , how did you get things to fit???"
    
    

    It has been recommended that not only should sliders be secured 
    from sliding but also lifting.  How do you secure sliders from
    lifting?
    
    Thank you
    

    
    Ohh, sliding *doors*! (Guess I've been watching baseball to much.)
    
    Don't they have vertically adjustable rollers on top? Adjusting them
    almost-snug into the top track would prevent lifting the door off the
    bottom track.
    

    	Just screw a pair of large headed screws into the top track...
    Get them so they just barely clear the door and then the door cannot
    be lifted out.  Pella sliders come with these in the little hardware
    baggie.
    
    

    Thank you for your suggestions!

Since I can write this, I guess .76 is not applicable.   At any rate, and since 
I do have a "sliding door" question.....

The sliding glass door going out to the deck is no longer sliding.  As my wife 
was opening it, it went from smooth to slowly grinding to a halt.  It almost 
looks like it came off some sort of wheels, but there is no way I/we can shift 
it back on.  We can lift it somewhat (1/4") and move it, but slide it no longer 
does.

Anybody got any good ideas?  From what frustratingly little I can see, it looks 
somewhat like more than a Saturday afternoon job.

Wanting good ideas, any suggestions on a local to Amherst, NH shop/craftsman to 
come in and repair/replace?

Dave

    
    Re .77:
    
    It is on wheels. One of them jumped the track.
    
    The wheel is spring-loaded to push down slightly against the track.
    To get it reseated, have someone else lift that side of the door; get
    something thin, like a putty knife, under the wheel; lift it up and move
    it back on the track. Check the track for any debris (Which is what
    probably caused the derailing).
    

    
    
    Re: .77
    
    There is usually an adjustment screw that you can get to from the end
    of the door.  It maybe that is slipped and just needs a turn.  I have
    never had any trouble with the the glass door, only the screen that
    comes off the track a few times a summer.  If that does not fix the
    problem, I have an old frame (no glass) that I can bring into work for
    you to look at.  BTW, the doors do come out very easily - just lift the
    door and pull it out from the bottom.

    If you really want to fix the sliding door, take the time to remove the 
    door from the track by lifting it up and pulling the bottom out. 
    You'll probably need an assistant to use a thin knife to lift the
    wheels up per the last note as you liftthe door.  Turn the door on its
    side and throughly clean the roller wheels of all the junk that's
    caught in them.  Spray the roller wheels liberally with WD-40 and
    ensure they spin freely.  Next, clean the roller track on the door
    frame.  Use a toothbrush to get all the junk out of the wheel track. 
    Ensure the ridge that the wheel rides on is straight and level.  Put
    the door back, top first and then have you helper use the thin knife to 
    lift each wheel onto the track.
    	If a wheel is broken or useless, remove the wheel and go to Home
    Depot or your favorite hardware store for a replacement

re helpful last few.

I suspected that a wheel had come off (as happens with the screens) so I looked
into taking the door off. Unfortunately, it cannot be lifted high enough to
clear the track. 

I'll look closer into the idea of lifting and sliding a putty knife under to 
left the wheel.

BTW, these doors are HEAVY!!!

Thanks for replies, more good ideas welcome.

Dave

    
    On my doors, the adjustment screw is directly connected to the roller
    so... I could adjust the screw to the minimum which might bring the
    roller above the track and then adjust it back down which might put it
    back on the track - maybe.  Support the bottom of the door so the door
    does not drop as you adjust the screw to minimum.

I need to replace an old aluminum sliding patio door that's fogged
and doesn't close properly.

How difficult is it?  I've talked to people about replacing windows
and that seems pretty straight forward, but I have never seen a 
description of what is involved in replacing a sliding patio door.

The door goes from my finished basement into the back yard so the
floor is concrete, but I assume the doorway is framed with lumber 
down to the floor.

/carl

re                     <<< Note 591.84 by RICKS::WINDNAGLE >>>
                -< difficulty of replacing sliding patio door? >-

generally, just lift it straight up into the upper track, then pull the 
bottom toward you and out of the bottom track, just like a sliding screen
door.  sometimes it is a little easier if you adjust the wheels further 
into the body.

there may be other designs. that's how mine is.

you may be surprised at how heavy it is, and how clumsy it is to handle.
figure out in advance where you go with it after it is out of the tracks.
compare the diagonal measurement of the slider with the height of the 
ceiling.

Either I was unclear or I don't understand.  The old sliding patio door is
no good.  Don't I need to replace the frame and sliding track as well 
as the doors?  Or can I use new doors from a different manufacturer in
the old frame?

/carl

You will most likely need to replace the track as well.  The door frame,
including track, usually sits on the floor (with caulking underneath) - it is
attached to the surrounding framing with screws through a flange.  It should
not be difficult to remove and replace if you can get one with the exact same
rough opening.

			Steve

sorry. i missed your point.

the frame is inserted in the wall much like a window frame.
i'd expect there to be some standard sizes for width and height,
so you might be able to avoid replacing the entire frame.
take some measurement and go to some stores with your drawing and your
tape measure.  good luck.

For the fogginess you will likely want to replace the door, but
the "doesn't close right" may be a repairable problem.
Start with the manufacturer of the present door - they may have replacement 
door units that will fit in the present frame and be able to fix why it won't
close either as part of the slider or the frame.

You don't want to get into replacing the frame if you don't have to.

- tom]