Conference mr1pst::music

    I had a note on V3 about an estate piano that I was trying to
    evaluate... it however got deleted.  Am I doing somthing wrong?
    
    To continue the story...
    
    One noter put me in touch with a pro Ken Hagberg & Son  Princeton
    who tuned it this a.m.
    
    I had the serial number wrong the piano is:
    
    Stineway & Sons
    Model A
    7 Octive
    6'
    Ebonized
    Mfg. in N.Y. in 1887
    Shipped to N Stimpson & Co.
    Springfield MA Jan. 31, 1887
    
    He said it had been altered... the once Victorian legs and music rack
    have been "modernized"  Probably around 1920.. and has been refinished
    ... the Stienway original decal (victorian lettering) has been updated
    as well.  He said the instrument was in "remarkable" condition.
    
    I am still a bit of a loss on how to price and sell it.  Do the better 
    auction houses take instruments?
    
    Bob

    I've searched through MUSIC_V3 as well as this conference and came up
    empty; using "repair" for title and keyword.
    
    I have a Yamaha PS6100 keyboard synthesizer that has problems with some
    of it's notes.  There's about 5 keys next to each other that
    aren't playing right.  Keys of C#, D, and F play, but also with the E
    note.  D# right now doesn't make a sound.  I was able to look under
    the keys with a flashlight.  It appears, over time, I've worn through 
    a vinyl strip.  And playing around with it with a soft plastic stick
    made it worse.
    
    Anyhow, I've brought my keyboard to Kurlan's Music in Worcester, Ma.,
    last Saturday.  They are supposed to be a "Yamaha Repair Center".  I
    bought it from them, new, approximately 5 years ago.  But, to date, 
    their repairman has not even looked at it to give me an idea of what
    it should cost and time to repair.  I understand that their repair
    business is backed up, and it takes a while for them to get to mine.
    But is a week or two reasonable?  Or should I take it elsewhere?
    How about some other good references?  Has anyone had any experiences
    with Kurlan's?
    
    
    

		Can anyone recommend a repair shop/person that can
	fix a 1967 Fender Twin-Reverb amp? This is an all-tube model.
	Its fuse blows whenever the thing is turned on.




	--- Shawn

    re .-1
    
    take it to any larger music store; they usually are in contact
    with someone who repairs amps/PA systems/etc. If you live around
    Worcester go to RMI electronics on Southbridge St.; they're next
    to Union Music.
    
    - Dave

    yes, go to COMMUSIC - there's more YAMAHA 4-op FM knowledge there than
    you want...
    
    karl

    Well, this is the "end" story of .2.  The problem with the keyboard was
    a totaly worn-out contact strip.  All the keys had to be removed to 
    replace it.  
    
    So, in summary, Kurlan's took two weeks before looking at it, and one
    week to order and replace the part.  They saved the worn out strip
    to show me; it was really bad.  Total of 3 weeks, and far less than
    $100, including parts, labor, and tax.  I'm very satisfied.  The
    keyboard handles like the day I bought it.
    

    
    Hello,
    
    For the past 5 months I have been looking for a new upright piano.  I 
    have narrowed my selection to either a Baldwin Hamilton or a Sohmer 
    Studio.
    
    I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with either type of 
    piano and if one piano is better than the other.
    
    Any advice would be appreciated.
    
    Thanks,
    Sue Madden
    DTN 445-6468
    

    Having a sister who's main profession is playing classical piano, her 
    answer was quick...
    
    
    
    
    
    		go for the (better built) Sohmer!
    
    
    Just one more opinion, but in *my* opinion, it has to be both pleasing
    to play and have a "tone" you like, so compare both and go with what
    you feel is the right one. Musicians can be soooo picky!   ;^)
    
    
    Good luck,
    	      Fred
                                          

    My son wants a keyboard for his 8th birthday.  I don't know if he's
    musically inclined or not.  Given the wide range of prices on these I
    have a bit of a dilemma: I don't want to get a REAL cheap one and quell
    any aspirations he might have, but I hate to spend a lot of money just
    to have him lose interest in a week.  

    We do have a piano, but that doesn't really interest him.

    Any suggestions?

    Jim

re: .12

>    My son wants a keyboard for his 8th birthday.  I don't know if he's
>    musically inclined or not.  Given the wide range of prices on these I
>    have a bit of a dilemma: I don't want to get a REAL cheap one and quell
>    any aspirations he might have, but I hate to spend a lot of money just
>    to have him lose interest in a week.  
>
>    We do have a piano, but that doesn't really interest him.

I'd swear I saw this note in another conference.  Perhaps I'm losing what's
left of my mind! :-)  At any rate, I agree with the consensus in the
(perhaps imaginary) other conference...if he isn't interested in the piano,
he'll probably burn out on an electronic keyboard as soon as the novelty
wears off.  My vote?  Get him some piano lessons for his birthday.

-Hal

I have a friend who wants to start a business as a Disk Jockey for weddings,
clubs, etc... in the Worcester, MA area.

I am asking for any advice anybody would like to him to help him in his 
venture.

What type of equipment is the best?
Does anybody have any used equipment for sale?
What is the least amount of equipment he can start out with to cut cost?
Where is the cheapest place to buy all the CD's he wants to buy.


Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

PLEASE send any info to me directly since I don't get into notes much.
Thanks 

TROOPR::DALESSANDRO
DTN 237-6604

    > Can anyone recommend a repair shop/person that can
    >fix a 1967 Fender Twin-Reverb amp? This is an all-tube model.
    
    If you're still looking, I'll do anything with tubes. 
    
       -Paul DTN 237-6559

    
    Did anybody catch the news on the new technology in upright piano
    making ? It was on the news the other night. One guy invented a new
    mechanism for upright pianos which allows them to sound like grand
    pianos. On an upright piano, the key has to be fully released before
    it can be hit again. The new design allows repetitive key hits on an
    upright piano. An expert, a piano dealer tried it out and he said that
    he had full control over the piano and that he was impressed.
    
    So if you have the money for a grand but no room ...
    
    Lale
    
    

    
    
    If you got the money but not the room (and you're not an honest-to-god
    "Piano" player), go with MIDI gear.  You can boogie-woogie at any hour
    without waking up the family/neighbors, you can get that grand piano
    action, and if you decide to play harpsichord instead, it's probably
    just a button-push away.  And it's much easier to move when you
    re-arrange the living room!
    
    

    
    I dunno . . . call me a traditionalist, but I'd prefer the real thing
    over a MIDI set-up any day.  I know, I know, not as versatile,
    cumbersome, no volume control, etc, etc  . . but  . . .
    
    	There's just something lacking there . . . maybe it's just me . . .
    
    
    					- Jim
    

    
    
    You must be a real "Piano" player.  Nothing wrong with that...
    
    One nice thing about real pianos - they come in handy when you're out
    of fire wood on a really cold day!
    
    

    Re -.1
    
    >One nice thing about real pianos - they come in handy when you're
    >out of fire wood on a really cold day!
    
    	Bite your tongue, man!!!
    
    	Actually reminds me of a totally non-MUSIC related story -
    
    	My sister had an exceptionally heavy hand-me-down kitchen set.  One
    day when she ran out of wood for the wood stove . . . yup.  broke up
    the chairs with an axe and threw 'em in.  "What else was I supposed to
    do?", she asked.  Sheeeesh.
    
    	I've heard some crappy electronic keyboards I'd like to see burned,
    but I suppose the fumes may be hazardous . . . But I've never heard a real
    piano I'd ever consider burning ( maybe having tuned, though :-) )
    
    					- Jim 
    
    
    			Jim

    I've got a baby grand in my basement. I believe its a Chickering and
    it has ivory keys. I can't say its in very good condition. It belonged
    to the former owner of the house which I bought 3 years ago. I bugged
    him a couple of times to move it out, but he hasn't bothered. I kinda
    get the idea, that he doesn't want it.
    
    Anyone have any idea what this thing might be worth, or what investment
    it might take to make it playable. I don't play but I could torture my
    children by making them take lessons. It is basically intact. and 
    although could probably be refinished, it probably only suffers from
    storage and basement humidity.
    Or should I use it for firewood?
    
    jim

    Jim,
    
    It might be incurable. The fact that the owner doesn't come and get it,
    kind of says that it would require more money to put it in a working
    condition than to move it.
    
    Humidity can permanently damage a piano. I am no piano expert but 
    in the previous incarnation of this conference there was a topic
    in which piano maintenance/refurbishing was discussed. The noters
    who contributed to that topic might still be around and give you some
    ideas as to what to do with it. For about $100 you can have it
    assessed. If it is tunable then I'd say have it tuned. I'd hate
    to see a piano being wasted.
    
    If it is impossible to put it back in shape, then I suggest you donate
    it to a day care center or a kinder garden or something. 
    
    I have a brand new acoustic piano and I adore it. I cherish it and I
    take very good care of it. I watch the sunlight that falls into that
    room, I monitor the humidity and the temperature and I dust it
    everyday.
    
    Music is as precious as books
    
    Lale
    

    
   >Music is as precious as books
        
    interesting opinion, but mine would be Music is More precious than
    books :)
    
    definitely piano lessons for those kids though...or yourself

            <<< NECSC::SYS_CLUSTER:[NOTES$LIBRARY]GRATEFUL.NOTE;1 >>>
                 -< Take my advice, you'd be better off DEAD >-
================================================================================
Note 90.736                   For Digressions Only                    736 of 736
MAGEE::OSTIGUY                                       21 lines  21-SEP-1993 08:21
                         -< Suggestions ???    Thanx >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I'm in the market for a new cassette deck...
    
    I was looking at a 2-deck JVC, but a friend who is very involved in
    trading tapes etc...told me that I'd be better off buying 2 seperate
    decks, if I plan on doing a lot of copying. Reasons: 2 decks, more
    hardware to break down, more electroncs involved, and usually with the
    dubbing function in a 2-deck unit, you don't have the capability to set
    the recording level as you dub.
    
    I'm planning to spend $200, maybe a bit more, and JVC was first
    thought, because I have a JVC CD player, and they have that connection
    between CD and Cassette that sets the best recording level when
    recording CD's.
    
    So, are there decent 1-deck cassette decks that are in the $100-$125
    range, or is a 2-deck unit acceptable, I'll be doing some copying, but
    I won't be making a living at it  :)
    
    thanx,
    
    Wes
    

    The convenience of a dubbing deck makes up for the audio losses
    compared to using two decks unless you are doing *lots* of copying or
    are picky about audio quality.
    
    The arguments you heard are correct: if the source tape is at a low
    level you can't goose the level up; you also cannot add, remove or
    change noise reduction when copying.  These are all reasons for owning
    two decks. 
    
    But when I need to do a lot of copying (for instance I have to copy
    tapes to give to members of may band so they can learn songs) the
    convenience of the dubbing deck can't be beat.  
    
    The real question should be what kind of copying do you plan to do? If
    it's to make tapes for the car, etc. get a dubbing deck.  If you plan
    on getting into serious tape collecting (Dead tapes, etc.) buy two
    decks.  Better yet, get one really good single well deck for recording,
    and a second good dual well deck for playback and quick dubs.  That's
    what I have and it's the best of both worlds.
    
    For $200, if it was me I'd buy the dubbing deck.  A $100 single well
    deck isn't going to perform any better than a $200 dual well deck. 
    Once you start talking about $300 single well decks, it's a different
    story.
    
    As for a recommendation: Sony makes the best low-priced decks on the
    market (in my opinion) in terms of audio quality *and* reliability.  
    I've tried many other brands (Harmon/Kardon, Akai, Pioneer, Teac) and
    the Sony stuff has performed better and longer than any other brand
    I've tried.  
    
    							Brian

It's extremely important to be able to adjust the bias of a cassette
deck. It matches your deck to the brand and type of tape you use,
which makes a huge difference in your ability to accurately record
high frequencies. Some stores will do it for you when you buy the
deck.

It sounds complicated but it's really very easy. Unfortunately,
inexpensive decks rarely have external bias adjustment knobs. If you
can find one that you can afford, grab it. Otherwise, you have to take
off the cover and turn the bias pots (little knobs with screw slots in
them) with a small screwdriver.

So it's important to know that the bias pots are a location that you
can find and easily access. I know that it's unusual to ask a sales
person to let you remove the cover of a deck to see where the bias
pots are. He will probably look at you like you're a nut case but it's
worth it. The pots are labelled "bias" but it may be hard to see.

Here's how to adjust the bias. Connect your deck's input to an FM
tuner. (If you happen to have a white or pink noise generator, that's
even better.) Adjust the tuner between stations. If your tuner has a
muting switch, turn it off.

Put in a blank tape and record about ten seconds of interstation hiss.
Rewind the tape and compare the recording to the direct signal from
the tuner. Listen to the high frequencies. The object is to make the
recording sound as close to the direct signal from the tuner as you
can.

Adjust the bias pots in one direction or the other and repeat the
comparison. Start with about a quarter turn and use finer adjustments
as you get closer. With practice, you will be able to bias a two-head
deck in about five minutes.

By the way, with a three-head deck, you don't have to rewind the tape
to adjust the bias. You just start recording, turn the pots and use
the monitor button to switch signals.

How often you bias your deck depends on how fussy you are. Minimally,
do it whenever you change brands or types of tape. It's amazing how
different the bias settings can be for two competing brands of tape.

One last word: don't fool with any other pots inside the deck. The
other ones require instruments.

Barry

    Buy used and you can get the two decks, which are better.
    
    As a start check the Audio notes conference, note 1456 which is
    equipment for sale.
    
    Someone just posted an AIWA deck with dolby B&C, automatic bias
    setting, probably .35% W&F or better, etc etc.  They want $150 but I 	
    bet $125 would do it.
    
    After you find another single well hook these together with a decent 
    interconnect (Audioquest Ruby, Aural Symphonics As-One, or the like)
    and you'll have a very good primary and dubbing system.

>    Someone just posted an AIWA deck with dolby B&C, automatic bias
>    setting, probably .35% W&F or better, etc etc.  They want $150 but I 	
>    bet $125 would do it.
    
I saw that too. I'd grab it myself except that I already have three
decks and my wife would go ballistic. 

>    After you find another single well hook these together with a decent 
>    interconnect...

Right. Get one good used audiophile patch cord and tape deck-to-deck,
rather than through a receiver. (Cables have no moving parts so it's
pretty safe to buy them used.) Even some Monster Interlink 400 is
better than an el-cheapo patch cord. 

Barry

    Can anyone post or send me a list of mail order stores w/phone numbers
    to buy musical and audio/sound equipment.
    
    	I already have SAM ASH music in NY, 800-472-6274
    
    
    				Thanks , John May
    					 ROYALT::MAY
    					 DTN:297-6509

re: .30

   Check out topic 411.* in the KDX200::GUITAR notesfile.  Very complete
   listing of mail order sources there.

   -- Sam
   

    A moderately priced used synth like the Yamaha DX-11 would come close.
    
    Leslie emulation is all but impossible without something like a
    Brianizer, but the organ itself ain't too difficult. A bit of chorus
    can make the sound wobble like a pseudo-Leslie...
    
    Edd

    What is reasonably-priced?  The Vintage Keys module has an excellent 
    Farfisa sample.  A mere $750 or so, plus keyboard.
    
    I didn't know people played Farfisas through Leslies.  Wasn't the
    Farfisa vibrato enough?
    
    How about getting a Farfisa?

   Does anyone have experience with or opinions on "Stewart" power amps? 
   They're in a half rack space (I'm assuming 1 space height) box, ugly as sin
   (they look like a giant heat sink), but seem to be a "too good to believe"
   value:  $300 for a 200w (in bridged mono) amp, new.  They claim that a
   "switching power supply" is the key to their size/power ratio.

   Any comments?

   -- Sam

   (cross posted in ::GUITAR)
   

    
    
    With a good Scot name like that, they're bound to be a good value,
    laddie...
    
    

>                      -<   gladly trade my QSC for one   >-

   Interesting you should say that.  Over in ::GUITAR there've been a lot
   of detractors against the "switching power supply", basically saying it
   wouldn't have the guts for my application.  One of the amps mentioned as
   definitely having the guts was QSC.  I've seen 'em before and remember
   them to be pretty much low price units, too.  Have you any negative
   comments on them?  (Please use mail if you don't want to post them.)

   Thanks,

   -- Sam

	Hi Sam,

	I haven't heard much about Stewart amps.  You could post a question to
rec.music.makers and probably get lots of opinion.  If you do, please post the
relevant responses.

	By the way, my Crown PB-1 costs $450 for 400W bridged (2 rack spaces)
which is cheaper $/watt than the Stewart you mention.  The Crown has
the advantage of being impervious to nuclear blasts as well, though it
weighs 35lbs sans rack and has a kinda loud fan.  On the other hand, the
specs are very good for a road amp.  I don't think Crown makes a smaller
amp.

	Mark

    
    
    The only real complaint I have about the QSC is how damn heavy the
    thing is...definitely a bottom-of-the-rack kinda item.
    
    

    two part question:               
    
    (1) what do you call the piece of the piano (the sound board)
    from an upright to which the strings are affixed ?
    
    (2) Anyways, we have one...taken from inside an upright.
    
    
    FREE TO ANYONE WHO WANTS TO TAKE IT FROM OUR CELLAR ... too
    heavy for us to move and !!! the cellar has no steps...it can
    be taken right out into the driveway.
    
    I can't help but think it is appropriate as a wall mounting at
    a children's museum or something.

>    (1) what do you call the piece of the piano (the sound board)
>    from an upright to which the strings are affixed ?

    The strings of a piano are connected, at one end at least, to tuning pins
    which are roughly 3 inches long and embedded in a hardwood "pinblock". 
    The other end of the string (or alternatively, the middle of the string
    (a.k.a. "wire")) is connected to or wrapped around hitch pins which are
    embedded in a large cast-iron "plate".  In between these two points are
    two other contact points:  the "agraffs" or "agraff bar", near the tuning
    pins but part of the plate; and the bridge, which is glued directly to the
    soundboard and is nearer to the hitch pins.  The portion of the string
    between the agraffs and the bridge is the section that vibrates.
    
>    (2) Anyways, we have one...taken from inside an upright.

    Probably not a big market for this, but good luck anyway!

    Can anyone recommend a reasonable piano tuner in the framingham, ma.
    area?......I'd hate to just pick someone from the phonebook...tx../k

    
    George Evans (Massachusetts Piano Craft) does excellent work though
    I'm not sure if he still does residential tuning.  He's also not
    inexpensive.  He's listed in the Worcester area phonebook, but the
    number I have for him is 852-1864.  George is a perfectionist.
    
     Lv

    Hi,                        
    I'm looking at buying a Wurltizer EP200 electric piano,
    and would appreciate any help/advice from anyone who
    knows something about these instruments. I actually
    have found one that I am thinking about buying, and
    have some questions:
    
    - Is it normal for the bottom three or four notes
      to start of quite sharp, when struck hard?
    - The action seems rather stiff - is this normal?
      It seems rather difficult to play softly because
      of this.
    - I notice quite a lot of inconsistency in the 
      tone from note to note. For example, one tine
      will sound very good, and the next will sound
      rather dull. What causes this? Is it just a 
      matter of adjustment, or does the tine need
      replacing? Note that some notes sound _very_ 
      dull, and don't ring for long enough - this
      isn't what I'm talking about. I assume that
      something's drastically wrong with the latter
      notes, such as the damper pressing on the tine.
    - I have a lot of trouble using the sustain pedal.
      The sound seems to deaden somewhat when repeated
      notes are played. Normal?
    
    Fortunately, all parts are readily available for these 
    things, even over in in Oz! :-)
    
    Greg.
    
    ps. Suggestions to buy synth/digital piano brand
        X _will_ be ingored - so don't bother. :-)

    Oh well - patience isn't a quality that I possess - 
    I've bought this heap of junk. :-)
    
    Eat your heart out, Super Tramp!! :-)
    
    I'm having someone who repairs these things come
    over to do what he can with it. 
    
    Of course, I would be still be really grateful if
    anyone here has anything to offer, other than
    comments to the effect that I've wasted my money. ;-)
       
    Greg.

    
    two comments:

    1. try commusic, i think you'd get a better response.

    2. i'm moving this note to the "equipment info" topic.

    -b (intermittent music mod)

    Hi--I am looking to start playing my cello again,
    and could use a few supplies!  Could anyone recommend
    a music store for string instruments that has:
    
    pitch pipe
    rosin (sp?)
    services to re-hair a cello bow
    
    I live in Clinton, MA and work in Salem, NH--anywhere in between
    would be great!
    
    Thanks, 
    Alicia Lee
    NIOSS1::LEE

    I know a great place that has ALL of the three things you asked for - 
    Robinson's Music Store in Westboro (a mere 15-20 minutes away from you)
    in Westboro or Marlboro. The Westboro store is at Rte 9 and Rte 135 and
    the Marlboro store is on Rte 20.
    
    Phone Number is 508-366-7007 in Westboro.
    
    (tell them Debbie referred you!)

    Thank you!  The location is perfect..
    
    Alicia