Conference napalm::guitar

    
    Assuming the Crate cab was a bass cab to start with:
    
    Open the thing up.  Staple batts of fibreglass along the back and
    sides.  Screw it back together *tight*.  Any screws that won't tighten,
    either use wood filler or install screw anchors (those plastic things).
    
    If the cabinet is not extremely rigid, it will do what you described. 
    Also lighten up on the bass boost.  I owned a Sunn where I used to run
    the bass knob on 10 and the thing was spitting bits of fibreglass out
    the ports  8^)  8^)  8^)  Didn't rattle, though....8^)  8^)
    
    						Brian

	If you want to get the equations for proper speaker design, I'd
	suggest that you take a look at Radio Shack. There is a book about
	building Speaker Enclosures (its about $6.00). It is aimed at the
	home sterio market, however there is information about dimensions and
	how to tune a cabinet for it's intended purpose. I have an old
	paperback published by JBL, and sure enough, the equations are the
	same, as well as are some of the examples of speaker cabinet
	assemblies. While you might not find all of the information in that
	book valid for your application, it does contain what you need to
	know to create a good sounding solution.

	I suggest 5/8 or 3/4 inch plywood for all cabinets & can reccomend
	using Ozite (indoor/outdoor carpeting) with metal corners and
	good solid handles (Peavey sells this stuff at many music stores).
	I also suggest wheels on everything of any size.
							
								Jens

     old buddy Fred is right! The problem is probably something loose 
    inside or the speakers themselves are loose. What I did when I cut
    my peavey cabinet holes from 15" to 18" was to make a cork gasket
    and then use some silicone caulk(like for a shower stall and after
    the caulk started to set up, then I put the speaskers in and just 
    left the screws in enough to keep everything lined up. the next 
    morning I screwed the speakers down tight, plugged in the amp and
    then proceeded to give it the acid test........a five string bass 
    cranked up thru the amp and started to shake all the garden tools
    off the wall in the garage!!!! It really worked out good.
    
    good luck,
    -Bill

    
    To Brian Fred and Bill,,,  Thanks....   We had swapped speakers and
    cabs so often trying to fix the problem that we ended up compounding 
    it.  Every step we took mad it worse untill this last time.  Here's
    what we did.
    
    	Pulled back off and speakers out.
    
    	Screwed all braces top side bottom back and front from all angles.
    
    	Replace loose baffle board between both speaker chamber (it was
    	loose!!)
    
    	Caulked all seams and glued everything is site.
    
    	Installed two inches of fiberglass on all inside walls.
    
    	Mounted speakers using new and heavier bolts and caulking putty.
    
    	Mounted speakers from the front (so we won't have to take the dam
    	back off again!!!   It was either that or install a zipper!!
    
    	Used new screw possitions for screwing back on,,,,  and used
    	caulking putty between cabinet and back board.  
    
    Well after two days of doing the above,, we pulled down the old
    Trayner,  plugged everthing in and comenced to rattle everthing in
    my house but the cabinet!!  If you could only see the look on my
    cousins face!!!   So from him and me,,,,,  THANK YOU
    
    Bruce May
    
    
    
    Drilled new hole to mount
    
    	

    Also,, Thanks Jens,, we purchased the book you mentioned and it
    re-affirmed that we were marching in the right direction.
    
      Thanks
    
    Bruce May
    

    
	I'm giving some thought to building by own speaker cab. I'm hoping
	someone with a little more experience can help shed some light.
	I've been thinking of doing a 2-12 slant cab. I/m looking at a 
	couple different options. 

	One option would be a in the style of a Marshall 4-12 slant 
	only cut in half. What I need to know about this is if Marshall
	uses any sound dampening inside the cab? also I'm assuming this 
	is a  non ported cab, is that correct ??

	A second option is doing one similar to a Boogie 2-12 slant. The one
	with the open back on top and closed ported cab on the bottom. I went 
	to a local music store last night and have all the dimensions of
	this cab on paper. what I don't know is:
	   1- what are they using for a speaker in the bottom half ?? and
	   2 - is there any sound dampening in the bottom half.

	
	Also has anyone tried building their own cabs ?? Do you think I'm 
	wasting my time? Should I be able to get a decent sounding cab. 
	building it myself ??? should I just bite the bullet and buy the
	real thing.

	I figure I could build one similar to the Boogie for under $200
	they want $500 for theirs.

Thanks
Ray.

    the limiting factor on the p[rice of a homebuild cabinet seems to be
    the speakers.  A big company can get them in mass quantity and get the
    cost down.  Figure you'll pay $80-$150 each for the same high quality
    speakers they use and you'll start to see the price difference.  Also
    the hardware isn't terribly cheap either (those large scoop handles go
    for about $12 each...).
    
    I'm starting to think that unless you can get some decent used speakers
    for it, making your own cabinet isn't ecnomically feasible.  You can
    easily buy a used cabinet in great condition for less money (not to
    mention effort) then you can make yourself.
    
    Now if you want something special in looks, performance, or style, now
    that's a good reason for building your own.
    
    JMHO...
    
    That said, you asked what Boogie is putting in their 2x12s, they use a
    Celestion in the top and an EV in the bottom.  ADA has a similar style
    2x12 that you can get for about $350 with Celestions, but I think the
    whole thing's sealed.
    
    Greg

    
    
    
    	Yeah, I agree, Greg, my home made with one 12 cost more than I
    thought it would and it sounded like "crap" when I was through.  I went
    out and bought a 2 -12 Crate Amp for a couple of hundred bucks, and
    Presto, I turn it on its side and it becomes a speaker cabinet! <grin>
    
    
    Steve

I did something similar to what your looking for.
I took a Marshall 4x12 in one hand and a Sawzall in the other,
and before you know it, I had two 2x12's.

Measure up a marshall and build them yourself; it's fun.
Marshall cabs are sealed and have two inch fiberglass bats
in them.

    
    I tried to simulte a boogie cab, except I tried to build 2x10.
    Then I found out that Celestians would cost around $90 apiece and 
    the EV's were around $150.  I tried out the Pyle 10' and had pretty 
    good success with it.  The home-made half open half back sounded
    pretty good, but still wasn't a boogie.
    
    Building this thing was a lot of fun, and it did give me the sense of
    accomplishment just as well as my home-made guitar did.  I play the
    home-made guitar religiously(I used quality parts for this and now, 
    it's my main axe) but I have sold the cabinet.
    
    IMO, it really wouldn't be worth building if you don't use the quality
    stuff(wood, speakers, and little add ons), but at the same time, if
    you did, you'd find that you could have bought good used cab for about
    the same price.  Like someone else said, if you're tryin' for a certain
    spec and can't find it, then try building it.
    
    J.