Conference vmszoo::rc

    What about this... I have been waiting for the new Field Force 7
    gear for around 6 weeks now... makes you wonder about a future repair
    for it doesn't it !!
    
    Regards,
    
    Eric();

    Sorry to hear of your problems with Futaba. You might try calling
    Futaba and asking for Steve Helms. He's their US CEO or something.
    
    
    Tom
    
    As a side note I sent back a JR Century VII a few months ago and
    recieved all of the items back within three weeks. The transmitter
    wouldn't hold a charge and required a new battery pack. The RX is
    sent back was in a major crash and was what I thought completely
    destroyed. I got one back and in working order. I mean the one I
    sent was crushed. The one I got is not the one I sent but hey it
    works... I also sent back six servos. They were is different states
    of damage from stripped gear trains to crushed to dipped in salt
    water (three years ago). I got all six back and in working order.
    It looks like the one that was salt dipped has a new motor and
    electrinics in it. All this including shipping cast me 103.00
    
    I was happy.
    
    

    HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT THE RECALL FUTABA IS HAVING ON 5UA RADIOS.
    I JUST DID THE OTHER DAY AND CALLED FUTABA. THEY CONFIRMED AND SAID
    TO SEND IN THE TRANSMITTER ONLY AND THEY WOULD TURN IT AROUND IN
    THREE DAYS. I SENT IT JULY 24TH. WILL LET YOU KNOW IF THEY KEEP
    THEIR WORD ON THAT. BY THE BY, WORD AROUND OUR LOCAL FIELD IS THE
    PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSMITTER IS THAT WHILE YOU ARE WITHIN 15-20
    FEET OF YOUR PLANE, YOUR BODY IS ACTING ACTING AS A SECOND ANTENNA.
    SOUNDS AS IF THERE IS A GROUNDING PROBLEM. MAYBE THAT IS WHY SOME
    GUYS ARE SEEING ALOT OF GLICHES WITH THEIR NEW RADIOS.
    
    
    RANDY

    JUST A FOLLOW-UP TO 1055.3
    I SENT MY RADIO AND A FEW DAYS LATER RECEIVED CONFIRMATION OF THEM
    (FUTABA) GETTING IT. THEY SAID IT WOULD BE A 4 WEEK TURN-AROUND.
    HOWEVER, THE FOLLOWING DAY I GOT MY RADIO BACK REPAIRED AND READY
    TO GO. SO AT LEAST ON THIS RECALL, THEY ARE BEING VERY QUICK.
    THATS ALL.
    
    RANDY

    I have the Futaba FC-28 transmitter, I have been using it for a couple
    of years but I have one dislike of it. It has a hand little rpm device 
    on the side to measure rpm. But the readings are very jumpy. Looks like
    they are missing some dampening. Anyone got an idea on what I could do
    ? It's like the 1024 tx I think in that you can set it for up to 5
    blades. I tried it with 4 blades and the display is a little better but
    then I should be able to use with a 2 bladed setup. 
    
    Eric.
    
    Back Tuesday ! 

>                                <<< Note 1055.5 by GALVIA::ECULLEN "It will never fly, Wright !" >>>
>                                                      -< tacho display jumpy >-
>
>    I have the Futaba FC-28 transmitter, I have been using it for a couple
>    of years but I have one dislike of it. It has a hand little rpm device 
>    on the side to measure rpm. But the readings are very jumpy. Looks like
>    they are missing some dampening. Anyone got an idea on what I could do
>    ? It's like the 1024 tx I think in that you can set it for up to 5
>    blades. I tried it with 4 blades and the display is a little better but
>    then I should be able to use with a 2 bladed setup. 

Mine works fine but I have to admit I don't use it very often.
I'd say if the sensor is clean you should call Futaba service and
say if they want you to send it in.  

I think I sent mine in well after warranty was up when I figured out that
the trim memorize function was off calibration because it wasn't aligned
with the elevator trim pot.  They had to take it apart and align the
elevator trim pot (no easy task).  No charge.

So if you can't easily fix it give the vendor a chance to make it right.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
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    Optical tachs are often jumpy if they are having trouble with the light
    level variation from the prop.  Make sure the sun is on the opposite
    side of the prop as the tach.  At 12 noon you may have to have a helper
    hold the plane up toward the sun.
    
    By the way I do not like the tach in the TX.  Always tach from BEHIND
    the prop.  It is unsafe to tach from the front!  The TX is too large to
    be confortable holding it near the prop.  (In my Biased Opinion)
    
    Charlie
    

    re -.2
    
    Kay,
    
    I have been tempted to return it but then I would have nothing to keep
    me going in the interim. I might just call Futaba Service in England
    and see if they have a mod that can be done. It was always like this
    and maybe others complained before now. 
    
    RE -.1
    
    Charlie,
    
    On the light level you are quite correct - I use APC's and I wouldn't
    be surprised if they were real slippy when it comes to reflecting
    light. I think that when I am out next I will tach some other props and
    see what the results are like. 
    
    I used to have a hand held job that I purchased in the US (Tom's Place ?)
    a couple of years back. Unfortunately I parted with it a while back
    since I had the Tx tacho. Bad move ! As you say the Tx is a little
    awkward to handle, behind the prop and doing the odd carb adjustment.
    You need a couple of extra hands ! The Tx is really only good for
    measuring with the Tx in front. And at that you really need to hold the
    Tx at just above ground level. So I think I might keep my eye out for
    one of those hand held Tacho's. The hand held unit always gave a steady
    reading as well.
    
    Eric.

    A torch (read flashlight) will improve the accuracy of an opto-tach.
    Even during the day!.
    
    
    E.

    I don't recommend using a tach in front of the prop!  A TX is way too 
    clumsy to use safely as a tach.
    
    Charlie
    

    The best tach is somebody elses!. 
    
    What I mean by that is tach'ing alone is not the best way. Two people
    doing a tach reading is much safer!. :-)
    
    One person should be concentrating on the "instrument management" while
    the other attends to the throtle etc.
                                                                  
    E.
    

I for one can appreciate a full throttle plane being held steady 8^)

    Re .-1
    
    One of our club's safety rules requests that people use restraints to
    hold models. Mine takes the form of 2 pieces of broom handle, about 18"
    in length with that foam insulator that is used on cental heating pipes
    in the house - they are stuck into the ground to hold the tailplane -
    foolproof [unless you pull the tail off 8-( ]. The foam protects the
    leading edge of the tail surfaces.
    
    I wouldn't go without it - better than a helper in that the plane does
    not move depending on the power applied etc. 
    
    E.

Assuming the plane has landing gear. My "cuts" were with a Gremlin.

>    I wouldn't go without it - better than a helper in that the plane does
>    not move depending on the power applied etc. 

Personally, I'd rather have a person that can tell you when it starts to 
slip. One of the fields I fly at has a person that uses a rope around the 
tail group staked in the ground. There was a lot of excitement when on 
his third time firing up the plane one day, it ripped out the stakes and 
nailed the pit fence. It had worked the previous two flights and he never 
rechecked the stakes after initial testing for the day. I'm just glad it 
was the pit fence...

    I use two flight boxes to prevent "runaways" with most of my planes.
    The method hasn't failed yet. 
    
    Gremlins now have my "Full-bore" plastic-water-pipe stand that will not 
    move or tip if you accidently hit the throttle stick.
    
    The Conquest has a different "pipe stand" for the same purpose.
    
    I get people trying to make me use tail restraints and I simply refuse.
    I have had one and seen two other tails get damaged using this method.
    I too have seen the restraints fail. Last but not least I have seen
    several people trip over them and two wing tips pierced by them.
    
    As long as the plane is restrained that should be enough. I'd like
    to see any plane move my flight and fuel boxes!. :-)
    
    E2. 
    
    P.S. I like the E-ALT handle.
       

    I guess it's user preference time. I will be building a fuse jig/stand
    for the Saphir's (my other have calls them obsessions !) as I will
    probably have to start them inverted. Also since I have put a lot of
    time and effort into them I feel that they deserve a better stand and
    on full power the sticks can do a little damage especially if the
    surfaces are not against the sticks. 
    
    Over the last few years I have tried to minimise the amount of boxes
    that I bring to the field since we have always had to walk a good
    distance to the strip. A box mounted restraint aka on the top would be
    a nice idea especially when you have to do some work - less bending down
    etc. My minimum is the smally caddy box with starter, dry cell bat, and
    glow warmer - box is now version 3 (Each time is has got cut in two!).
    
    Since we get lots of liquid sunshine over here one of those light car
    covers is a plus to have - saves everything getting wet and those
    hinges getting loose. The cover will cover two planes and all the field
    equipment.
    
    MAN had a box of boxes advertised, I'm sure you have seen it. One of
    our club members has one - nice. Got legs on it...now to the portable
    chair...
    
    Alt-E 	at last a signoff I like 8-).

    I have been having problems with my FC-28 recently... It's to do with
    the rudder neutral position and the AFR settings.
    
    When I use EXP1 or EXP2 on the rudder the rudder moves off center
    (either by looking at the model or using the SERVO display). I used a
    new model, reset all (via RESET) and still I get the rudder moving off
    to one side when I put in EXP1/2. Even before putting in anything the
    SERVO display shows the rudder offset. Anyone got the same problem ? Full
    right rudder trim neutralises the effect when the EXP1/2 is active but
    when turned off (using another AFR mode) the rudder is off - so you
    can't win. The other channels seem fine with AFR entered.
    
    Alt-E.

    Well to follow up on this... 
    
    I called the Futaba service agent in Britain and he was _VERY_ helpful.
    He mentioned that this type of thing had happened before and that it
    could be attributed to a little water on the stick or trim pot, a bug
    roaming around in the s/w, worn or loose pot. He told me to do a number
    of checks, like measuring the rudder pot voltage either side center. I
    also found out more on involking the build in test s/w and diagnostic
    s/w. This allows you to do some basic checking of pulse widths,
    switches (including the membrane one), the display, resetting the
    password and a few other bits and pieces. Failing a few simple checks
    it could be more involved and require a service.
    
    Anyway I took it all apart and gave it a good look over and warmed up
    the rudder/throttle stick pots to evapourate any water that might be
    causing the problem. Then I ran the test and diagnostic s/w. After
    putting it all back together it was working as new ! The phone call
    saved me posting it off for repair and being tx'less. 
    
    Alt-E
    
    who will be wary of flying in liquid sunshine !

    Resetting the FC-28:
    ====================
    Simply short out or remove the backup battery on the pc board. This
    clears out everything so use a campack to maintain model info (The
    service guy said there was a current limiting resistor). Best thing I
    guess is to remove the battery, but that is a little awkward to say the
    least. 
    
    You really need a scope to measure the pulses since they can be
    adjusted.
    
    Involking the test s/w
    ======================
    remove the back of the tx, beside the rf module location there is a
    link (normally broken). TEST is printed beside it. Short this out and
    turn on the Tx. The test s/w pops up. Can't remember if it resets the
    set so again use a campack to save model details.
    
    The user code is displayed on the top line if you have forgotton it,
    like I did.
    
    Alt-E.