Conference vicki::boats

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Note 652.11                      shifting props                         11 of 13
HYEND::J_BORZUMATO                                   25 lines  20-APR-1990 10:43
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    If the bend is as slight as you say, take a pair of water pump
    12" or longer, and straighten it out. Don't pound on it.
    
    As for the oil leak, what goes out, might come in. oil out 
    water in. you don't have much choice about the oil leak
    it has to be fixed. checking its level may not be good enough.
    You might be in for a "major repair" like it or not.
    The results of a leak, is the innards will rust, and you 
    may wind up with a "mega repair".  The lower unit case
    can be changed, no need to replace the entire lower unit.
    There's only one major alignment, and that is the shafts.
    If your at all handy, you could do the work yourself,
    and have a mechanic do the alignment.
    
    Sorry for the bad news, but them dam rocks just seem to 
    
    "pop up".
    
    Funny you talk about rocks jumpin up, a friend of mine has
    a 32' Hat-- and this boy is smoking one day, and up comes
    a 3/4" sheet of plywood 4'x8', of course he ran over it...
    
    #%&&$##@@##$ 
    
    Jim.

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Note 652.12                      shifting props                         12 of 13
LEAF::HESSION                                         9 lines  20-APR-1990 10:57
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    Jim, you said take a pair of water pump 12" or longer and straighten it
    out. I don't know what you mean by water pump, is it a tool and how
    does it work.
    
    Do you like my idea about the silicone sealer??
    
    Thanks,
    Kevin
    

Kevin,
I think Jim is referring to a pair of 12" "water pump pliers" which 
is just kind of a generic name.  You may know them as Channel Locks 
or some other brand name.
    
Anyway, from my somewhat limited experience, aluminum will bend in 
one direction but usually does not like to bent back.  This is 
especially true with an aluminum casting.  It will crack almost every 
time.  If you decide to bend the skeg back straight, be aware that it 
may crack somewhere near the bend.  I wouldn't attempt to straighten 
it by hand unless you've got the money on hand to replace the lower 
end housing in the event that the casting cracks.

I don't think your idea of the silicone sealer on the drain plug is
a good one.  When you tighten the plug the sealer will be squeezed
out, and some will find its way into the lower unit.  The stuff never
really hardens when in contact with oil, it just becomes a gooshy mess.
You may be able to stop the oil leak by replacing the nylon washer 
on the drain plug.  Cost is about $.50 at a dealer.  If the drain plug
surface is so distorted that one washer won't seal it, I'd double up
on the washer before using the silicone.

Rick W.
                                    

    Jim being a pro at doing damage to boat gear, let me pass on my
    exprience with bending skegs. Having done my last trick two weeks ago
    right in the driveway....  take 2 good pieces of wood, 6X10 or
    something similar, and with a friend, have him hold one piece 
    of wood right along the bend of the skeg, applying pressure with a
    knee on the opposite side of the bend. With the other piece of wood,
    lay it just below the line of the bend on the side where you want
    to apply pressure. Then gently hit the wood with a hammer until
    you bring the skeg back in line. It may take a couple of shots
    in a couple of strategic places...but it works...the trick is not
    to hit the metal directly and the back support of wood on the opposing
    side.
    
    As for the fill plug leaking, i agree with the new or double washers.
    Or if its not too much trouble to take the motor off and lay it
    on its side....change your oil...put the plug in with new washers,
    clean hole with denatured alcohol, and apply silicon or SEal-all over
    the plug and let dry....easy enough to clean off, when you ant to
    change oil again....
    
    
                               Bob

    
    If you have bent the lower housing enough to affect the shape of
    the drain plug hole then you may have altered the centerline of
    the lower housing. Only your bearings will know for sure.
    
    Take a good look at how the prop spins making sure that it spins
    on a straight axis. If it wobbles in the least you should start
    hunting around for a used lower unit.
    
    Doug_whos_skeg_is_also_a_little_banged_up :-(

    Was the engine stored in an unheated area which might have
    dropped below freezing?  If so, I wonder if there could have
    been water in the lower unit, which forced oil out when it
    froze (and expanded).

    If it was stored in a heated area --- never mind.

    	- Lee

    im not sure if this will help but my drain plug has a rubber o ring
    around it and this seals really well perhaps this is worth a try
    
    reg
    

    
    repair methods:
    
    You guys "crack" me up...:-)
    
    
    
    The Mad Weldor....Jim

    How about teflon tape around the plug threads?
    
    Carl

    The boat was stored in my heated garage all winter and I did have it
    winterized last Oct.
    
    I went to the dealer yesterday and he sold me a couple of washers and a
    tube of lower unit oil. He said that if I staighten out the skeg, keep
    an eye on the oil level and add the washers that it would be fine. 
    A lower housing alone costs $250 and the lower unit costs $600.
    
    Thanks for all the help
    
    Kevin
    

    I have a question about an oil leak. I just got a 1990 Invader, 15'
    with 100 horse merc motor. I've only had it on the water 3 times now.
    Also I might add I'm a new boater.
    
    Last weekend I was cleaning it up and lowered the tilt to clean
    around where the motor is mounted. (this was not in the water)
    The motor is an older merc, 1969 older.
    
    Oil dripped out onto the driveway and it seemed to be coming from
    behind the prop. Lower unit oil or just oil build from exhaust?
    
      prop    \             |
            ---\--|          --\
               /  |            / lower unit(?) housing
            --/---|___________/
                 ^
                 |_____ leak?
            
     Get the picture ? :-)      
    
    Is this normal ? The exhaust is right there too.
    Is there a gasket going out ?
    
    There is still two months left on the 90 day waranty. Should I take it
    in ?
    
    Thanks for any advice !!!!!!!
    Mark

    If there is time on the warrenty I would take it back. There is a seal
    there that could be leaking causing lower unit lube to leak out. Worse 
    yet water could be getting in. 
    
     As a side note fishing line sometimes gets wound up in this area. If
    you don`t notice it, it will usually stay wound up around the shaft and 
    eventually take out your seal. 
    
    
    					jeff b. 

    Last night I loosened the lower plug, to see if water was in there,
    and there wasn't.  The oil in the lower unit is clean, but the oil
    that dripped out onto the drive way was black/dirty.
    
     Looks like it was just a exhaust/oil build up.
    
    I lowered the motor last night also and will leave it down a day or two
    just to see how much leaks out.
    
    re-1 thanks for your reply !
    Mark