Conference unifix::sailing

    I assume you've checked the "engines" section in Soundings? seem to
    be quite a few companies advertising Atomic parts. Have you tried
    a large farm equipment dealer. Its the type of engine that could have 
    been used in farming back in the 40's and 50's. Mechanical ignition
    parts don't seem to change much, I had a 1946 jeep that had mostly 
    interchangable parts with a 1965. You could find an auto supply with
    knowledgeable counter help (forget the ones with kids they couldn't
    tell you if it was raining outside) and ask them to match your old
    ones. Anyone over 35 with a 3 day stubble and chewing on a cigar
    will be able to help you. If done this many times with ignition
    parts and even rings and bearings. Good Luck..

    
     For electrical parts (such as distributor, generator,starter- get the
    make of the nanufacturer off the ecessory and the model no- then go to
    your freindly auto parts store.
    
     I got points, condensor, rotor for a 1959 Bearcat this way. Most of
    these acessories are used on multiple applications, so the aftermarket
    suppliers cross refernce by accesory manufacturer.
    
    
    
    Dick
    

	I used to get rotor/distributor cap/plugs/points etc at auto supply
stores in Marblehead.  They had marine applications books that listed the
Atomic 4.  I suspect most coastal chain auto supply stores will have marine
applications references.  As I recall, the 'expendable' parts always seemed to
be in stock except for the thermostat, which was a custom Holley.

    
    Rick,
    
       We get our distributor cap/rotor, plugs and points at our local
    ADAP, NAPA stores.  However the thermostat is approx. $80.00, and
    parts like that can be gotten at Hansen Marine in Marblehead, as well
    as parts to rebuild the motor.. piston, rings etc.. Practical Sailor
    devoted an issue many moons ago to the maintance of Atomic 4, and they
    will send you a reprint of it for about $4.00
    
                                          Mary Ellen

      The best "how to" on the Atomic 4 was written as a series of
    4 articles in Motorboating & sailing august/sept/oct/nov 1976
    "Everything you always wanted to know about the Atomic 4 but were
    afraid to ask"    by Gordon Groene
    
    It covers Prop and exhaust problems, the ignition system, the oil
    system, the fuel system, valves, compression, basic cooling systems,
    engine  alignment, modifications, routine service, layup &
    recommission.
    
    I have some copies, if you wish to stop by LTN1 in Littleton Ma
    to pick them up.
    
    Also very good is the Parts List form DFT 4/73 from Universal(out
    of print) 150 pages.  It has all engine parts, exploded views,
    part numbers (universal and the OEM..delco, prestolite, oberdorffer,.)
    
    I also have a copy and will loan it out for copies where needed.
    
    For parts, the last notes give a good break out of where.  I use 
    Auto Machine the NAPA dealer for ignition(Echlin) parts, carb rebuild
    kits,..
    
    For pumps, I use Monahan Pumps in Norwood Ma 617- 849-1364. the
    oberdorfer dealer .  my engine had a Sherwood pump replaced it
    with an oberdorfer M-202, I recommend you do the same.
    
    Jim at Monahan get ~ $ 11 for replacement impeller for the M-202
    
    My Triton (1967) still runs an AT4 (FWC since 1976) and  if I had to
    replace it today, it would be another AT4.   (some personal bias,
    spent my time in the Navy on diesel ships, drive an Ocean minesweeper
    across the Atlantic for 21 days, huge following seas and wind the
    4 Packard diesels needing injectors BADLY and you never want to smell
    it again 8*))
    
    IMHO, the most important part of ownership of an AT4 is end of season
    layup.    You have to runb them with fresh water through the system
    (espec raw water cooling) , change the oil, and use enough oil in
    the fogging .    Stabil in the fuel helps keep the carb clean ,but
    I pull mine each year and blow out the passages with compressed air,
    real good for idle .
    
    

    Have you tried the antique outboard club of America. My neighbor is the      
    President and they have books, rally's, etc. for exchange of parts,
    ideas, etc.
    
    contact me if i can be of assistance in connecting you up with him.
    
    ASABET::Holt

I have a blown head gasket on my Atomic IV.  After opening up the
engine, we were pleased to find that the valves are OK.

However, I was now in the need of a new head gasket, and one stud
which had to be drilled out.

After a bunch of telephone hunting, I found that the gasket could be
purchased in Marblehead from Hanson Marine 617 631 3282.  I also
found Duby Marine in Buffalo NY (actually N. Townawanda).  I bought
the gasket from Duby Marine.  Even with the specail handling by UPS
the gasket is about $10 cheaper.  He also carries parts and
refurbishes Atomic IV engines.  He has two rebuilt Atomic IV's that
he will sell directly or exchange.

It is good to know a local spot for parts, albiet expensive.  In
addition, Duby sounds like a good long term source of parts for this
venerable engine.

Hope these numbers save someone else several hours of telephone
searching.

Just found out the hard way that there were two differnt approaches to
the head gasket on the Atomi IV.

The first one used TWO paper head gaskets.  This  is what I got from
Duby marine.  However, I only got one.

The second approach is a graphite gasket.  This is available fromHanson
Marine in marblehead for $38.00.  Sounds like the better choice.  Also
more in line price wise compared to Duby marine.

Doug

First the idea behind the paper gaskets.  They came as a pair
delibrately.  The idea was that you were supposed to be able to
remove the head and reuse the gaskets.  If the head has been on
for any length of time, the gaskets are shot.  Do not waste your
time.  Buy the graphite impregnated one or a metal one if
available.  My old gasket was copper.  A really good one that held
up far longer than it whould have.

The head torques to 33 pounds.  I went to 35.  My cousin did this
in three passes, 25, 30 and 35 pounds.  He was being very gentle
to the head.

Use brake cleaner to make the stell dry on both the head and the
block.  This allows for a better seal with the gasket.

Turn the engine over with the plugs out.  The pistons will blow
junk out of the holes.  Check the compression quickly by putting
your thumb over the spark plug hole.

If you can hold your hand on a water line for about 5 seoncds, the
water is about 150 degrees Farenheit. 

Torgue the heads to 35 pounds again after the engine is warm.  We
got almost a turn out of one bolt.

Make certain that the threads on the studs go down further than
the nut will go.  This was part of the trouble with the last valve
job that was done.  The stud gave a false reading when torqued
down 10 years ago.

Have a cousin who is a cheif engineer on a merchant ship.

Doug